How to use car paint to spray 1:42 models
Discussion
Can anyone advise me how to do a decent paint job on the SMTS 1:43 scale TVR models I have bought? I got a V8S and modified the nose to replicate my old S3C. I sprayed it with grey undercoat which looked fine but when I came to spray the colour it was too thick and gloopy! I ordered the correct colour of Cooper Green in an aerosol from a paint company but it seems the aerosol is useless for modelling purposes? I have also bought a Griffith and the correct colour Aston Martin Green for my car but I can't work up enthusiasm to build it until I've sussed out how to spray them? So... should I buy an airbrush and empty the colour out of the aerosol and thin it down and sprays it with an airbrush? Thoughts anyone? 
Rich...
>> Edited by richb on Sunday 1st January 14:13
Rich... >> Edited by richb on Sunday 1st January 14:13
Ironically, aerosol paint is usually unsuitable for spraying using an airbrush. Aerosol paint contains a propellant which needs to be removed berfore it can be put through an airbrush. I've never done it myself but the usual technique is to spray the aerosol paint into a suitable container and then leave it for a while for the propellant to evaporate.
I've used automotive spay paints directly from the can on 1/43 cars and I've been resonably happy with the results. The trick I think is to spray the model with automotive acrylic undercoat - such as Halford's White Primer, sand down the first coat and spray again and repeatedly sand down until the coat is eggshell smooth. Then you can spray on the top coat. Buffing and polishing the dried final coat will bring up the finish to the desired level of shine.
I've used automotive spay paints directly from the can on 1/43 cars and I've been resonably happy with the results. The trick I think is to spray the model with automotive acrylic undercoat - such as Halford's White Primer, sand down the first coat and spray again and repeatedly sand down until the coat is eggshell smooth. Then you can spray on the top coat. Buffing and polishing the dried final coat will bring up the finish to the desired level of shine.
I would also make sure you spend plenty of time ensuring the contents of the aerosol are well mixed, I have placed the can in a tub of warm water for a few minutes before shaking the can for at least 5 mins (which can hurt!).
As Eric says plenty of thin coats is far better than 1 thick one.
Cheers
Paul
As Eric says plenty of thin coats is far better than 1 thick one.
Cheers
Paul
Thanks chaps, p.s. nice to have a modelling forum eh? Thing is I tried the usual shaking etc. but thought the spray pattern was very lumpy, almost like it was spraying particles rather than wet paint? Perhaps I need to experiment with a nozzle from a different can? So you think I'm better to persevere with the aerosol rather than empty the paint out into a receptacle and airbrush it? Rich...
I wouldn't go down the spraying the paint from the aerosol route, as Eric says the paint is specifically manufactured to be sprayed from the can so results will probably be dodgy at best (maybe worth experimenting on an old kit tho').
Can you not get the paint in a tin in the same way that it would be supplied to a paint shop?
Can you not get the paint in a tin in the same way that it would be supplied to a paint shop?
Just an idea,what about brushing on or spraying with matt paint then go over with a spray laquer.
If you brush on ,extract the hue from the tin first with a match(dont mix it with the thinners that it is in the tin with it),then work it with the brush before applying.
This gives a nice even matt coat.
>> Edited by ZR1cliff on Sunday 1st January 17:38
If you brush on ,extract the hue from the tin first with a match(dont mix it with the thinners that it is in the tin with it),then work it with the brush before applying.
This gives a nice even matt coat.
>> Edited by ZR1cliff on Sunday 1st January 17:38
What about aerosol onto polystyrene? Are car spray aerosols all acrylic now or are they still cellulose? Obviously cellulose onto polystyrene isn't going to work but I recall in the olden days (1970s) car modellers would spray an enamel base coat onto polystyrene car kit bodies then spray the cellulose onto that.
Quite right Yertis, cellulose and plastic don't make happy partners, however you are also right that a good covering with an enamel or acrylic base coat will protect it. Not sure what modern car paints are based on but I know Halfords spray cans were largely cellulose a couple of years ago.
Halfords car spray paints are acrylic - to quote the can 'advanced acrylic based formulation'. They do work well on virtually any media model kits and are mentioned in modeling magazines. As suggested previously the key is making sure the paint is warm, well shaken and multiple thin coats are used.
Eric Mc said:
I thought that Halfords paints were now acrylic based. Their white primer certainly sprays directly onto polystyrene plastic wirth no ill effects.
I know their grey primer is available as an acrylic because I use it, just saying that I was not sure about their paint range as a whole, mainly because it has been some years since I purchased any. If it is now available as acrylic that is indeed good news, especially for car modellers.
richb said:
extract the hue from the tin first with a match(dont mix it with the thinners that it is in the tin with it)...
When you open the paint tin in an unshaken state ,if you dip a match into the unmixed thinners ,you will be able to lift out a lump of unmixed paint.
Matt seems to spread better than its gloss equivalent ,without showing brush strokes.
Work the lump of paint with the brush and paint the model,once you are satisfied with the covering then you can cover with laquer.
Ive not tried this myself as my models were brush painted in real life,but the model shop owner seemed to think this was another way of getting a better finish.
>> Edited by ZR1cliff on Sunday 22 January 23:33
I've sprayed loads of plastic kits with all manner of aerosols.
Using the authentic car colour is very often the only way to do it.
Most importantly wash the shell in warm water, this reduces the static.
Don't use washing up liquid it contains silicones.
Firstly if the shell & or paint is cold then it the paint will be thick.
The shell needs to be really warm (fan heater) & with the aerosol
I put it in a kettle with water that you can just about tolerate your
hand in. The paint can should be quite hot to the touch & should be taken
out & shaken for 15-30sec every 3-5mins, after 10 minutes you're ready to go.
For plastic kits the first 2-3 coats should be misty coats, with cellulose
fairly dry (aerosol about 18 inches away) then they don't react with the plastic,
acrylic is fine but the coats should still be light.
Build up the coats with an hours warm drying time between them.
The last coats should be relatively wet to get a gloss, alternatively
use a clear lacquer over to give a good gloss, this should be left for a few days
then can be gently rubbed down with 1000 or 1200 wet & dry used wet with a bar of
soap.
Practise makes perfect but you can get a finish that is glass like with practise.
Jim
Using the authentic car colour is very often the only way to do it.
Most importantly wash the shell in warm water, this reduces the static.
Don't use washing up liquid it contains silicones.
Firstly if the shell & or paint is cold then it the paint will be thick.
The shell needs to be really warm (fan heater) & with the aerosol
I put it in a kettle with water that you can just about tolerate your
hand in. The paint can should be quite hot to the touch & should be taken
out & shaken for 15-30sec every 3-5mins, after 10 minutes you're ready to go.
For plastic kits the first 2-3 coats should be misty coats, with cellulose
fairly dry (aerosol about 18 inches away) then they don't react with the plastic,
acrylic is fine but the coats should still be light.
Build up the coats with an hours warm drying time between them.
The last coats should be relatively wet to get a gloss, alternatively
use a clear lacquer over to give a good gloss, this should be left for a few days
then can be gently rubbed down with 1000 or 1200 wet & dry used wet with a bar of
soap.
Practise makes perfect but you can get a finish that is glass like with practise.
Jim
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