Getting Started in Scale Modelling
Discussion
It's probably an age thing......but I have very fond memories of building Airfix kits with my Dad several decades ago.
Now with a sudden rush of nostalgia I was looking at taking it up again as a hobby with my son.
What's a good model to start with - that's relatively straightforward for us beginners but gives good results? I'm interested in ships (WW1 / WW2) or military planes from any era.
Also, viewing Youtube, there are so many model manufacturers now - no longer just Airfix and Revell is there a distinct difference in kit quality between certain manufacturers?
Lastly, painting, aging etc.....is an artform in it's own right but there seems to be so much choice here what do I need to consider here if anything as a beginner.
Thanks......
Now with a sudden rush of nostalgia I was looking at taking it up again as a hobby with my son.
What's a good model to start with - that's relatively straightforward for us beginners but gives good results? I'm interested in ships (WW1 / WW2) or military planes from any era.
Also, viewing Youtube, there are so many model manufacturers now - no longer just Airfix and Revell is there a distinct difference in kit quality between certain manufacturers?
Lastly, painting, aging etc.....is an artform in it's own right but there seems to be so much choice here what do I need to consider here if anything as a beginner.
Thanks......
Look at a few of this guy’s videos. He seems to make a great job of standard kits with commonly available materials:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oGZ4XKwBHVY
If you can replicate a few of those I’d expect you’d soon be experimenting with different techniques and materials.
I don’t think it needs to be any more complicated than that.
I would say that in my experience, the quality and fit of Airfix kits is highly variable, so check other builds online before buying a specific one.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oGZ4XKwBHVY
If you can replicate a few of those I’d expect you’d soon be experimenting with different techniques and materials.
I don’t think it needs to be any more complicated than that.
I would say that in my experience, the quality and fit of Airfix kits is highly variable, so check other builds online before buying a specific one.
The thing to watch for is kit quality varies wildly.
If I was starting again the latest Tamiya Spitfire Mk.1 is a treat of a kit.
Aerosol paints and pre cut masks are a game changer.
Get used to checking Scalemates to see which kit you are buying.
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-61119-super...
Loads of great resources. Have fun.
If I was starting again the latest Tamiya Spitfire Mk.1 is a treat of a kit.
Aerosol paints and pre cut masks are a game changer.
Get used to checking Scalemates to see which kit you are buying.
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-61119-super...
Loads of great resources. Have fun.
TBH I’ve always found aerosols pretty frustrating to use on small models. For me, the paint is a bit “hot”, and always seems to run under masking. Mistakes can also be difficult to correct . If it’s a car model fair enough.
Brush painting can give great results with significantly less hassle and expense than spraying. After all, it was the only method available to many of us in previous modelling lives, and was just as much fun if you’re not after perfection.
Brush painting can give great results with significantly less hassle and expense than spraying. After all, it was the only method available to many of us in previous modelling lives, and was just as much fun if you’re not after perfection.
dr_gn said:
Look at a few of this guy’s videos. He seems to make a great job of standard kits with commonly available materials:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oGZ4XKwBHVY
If you can replicate a few of those I’d expect you’d soon be experimenting with different techniques and materials.
I don’t think it needs to be any more complicated than that.
I would say that in my experience, the quality and fit of Airfix kits is highly variable, so check other builds online before buying a specific one.
I when back to building after a 25 year gap. As above watch/read some reviews.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oGZ4XKwBHVY
If you can replicate a few of those I’d expect you’d soon be experimenting with different techniques and materials.
I don’t think it needs to be any more complicated than that.
I would say that in my experience, the quality and fit of Airfix kits is highly variable, so check other builds online before buying a specific one.
I know it’s not on your list but Tamiya 1/35 tanks are a good place to start, relatively simple, can be brush painted and give good results relatively quickly, which helps a lot to get things going.
If you fancy a kit, definitely go on Scalemates as more than likely the will be a copy of the instructions.
If you go down the rabbit hole of watching his other videos (Telford SMW) look out for my lad talking about cussing while building an Airfix King Tiger. He definitely, honestly, didn’t get it from me…
Edited by r159 on Saturday 23 March 17:02
Edited by r159 on Saturday 23 March 17:03
r159 said:
dr_gn said:
Look at a few of this guy’s videos. He seems to make a great job of standard kits with commonly available materials:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oGZ4XKwBHVY
If you can replicate a few of those I’d expect you’d soon be experimenting with different techniques and materials.
I don’t think it needs to be any more complicated than that.
I would say that in my experience, the quality and fit of Airfix kits is highly variable, so check other builds online before buying a specific one.
I when back to building after a 25 year gap. As above watch/read some reviews.https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oGZ4XKwBHVY
If you can replicate a few of those I’d expect you’d soon be experimenting with different techniques and materials.
I don’t think it needs to be any more complicated than that.
I would say that in my experience, the quality and fit of Airfix kits is highly variable, so check other builds online before buying a specific one.
I know it’s not on your list but Tamiya 1/35 tanks are a good place to start, relatively simple, can be brush painted and give good results relatively quickly, which helps a lot to get things going.
If you fancy a kit, definitely go on Scalemates as more than likely the will be a copy of the instructions.
If you go down the rabbit hole of watching his other videos (Telford SMW) look out for my lad talking about cussing while building an Airfix King Tiger. He definitely, honestly, didn’t get it from me…
Edited by r159 on Saturday 23 March 17:02
Edited by r159 on Saturday 23 March 17:03
The Tamiya 1:72 Zero and Hien are two of the best kits I’ve ever built in terms of detail and fit. Eduard Hellcat was very good too.
There are so many excellent kits out there at reasonable prices that it would be a shame to go for ‘something simple and cheap’ thinking it will be a better experience. A really nice quality, fairly complicated kit will still go together more easily than a simple but poor quality one.
I would stay away from ships to start with, they are a lot more complex and really need PE railings and rigging to look realistic, those aren’t beginner friendly.
Tamiya- apart from a few duds even their oldest kits go together well, the more modern stuff are little gems.
Airfix - unless you’re going for nostalgia avoid their classic range, most stuff from the last 10 years is decent.
Revel - avoid imo.
Eduard- nice kits, come with PE and masks, not beginner friendly though.
Takom, Dragon, ICM etc very accurate, tiny pieces, vague instructions, avoid for now.
Left field choice, Bandai A wing, lovely little kit, easy to paint as the main colour blocks are separate parts, no glue required.
Watchlist
Andy’s hobby headquarters, mostly armour but good introduction to painting and weathering.
Nigel’s modelling bench, boy can the guy waffle, but does give good advice.
Nightshift, Plasmo - watch with caution as it will take years to get nearly that good
Tamiya- apart from a few duds even their oldest kits go together well, the more modern stuff are little gems.
Airfix - unless you’re going for nostalgia avoid their classic range, most stuff from the last 10 years is decent.
Revel - avoid imo.
Eduard- nice kits, come with PE and masks, not beginner friendly though.
Takom, Dragon, ICM etc very accurate, tiny pieces, vague instructions, avoid for now.
Left field choice, Bandai A wing, lovely little kit, easy to paint as the main colour blocks are separate parts, no glue required.
Watchlist
Andy’s hobby headquarters, mostly armour but good introduction to painting and weathering.
Nigel’s modelling bench, boy can the guy waffle, but does give good advice.
Nightshift, Plasmo - watch with caution as it will take years to get nearly that good
When it comes to painting, the acrylic paints you get now are thinner than the enamels we all used bitd. Use two or three thin coats. Don't worry if the first coat looks patchy or translucent, when you go over it with the next coat it will look better. Acrylic paint drys really quick. Don't let it dry on the brushes, as once it's dry it can't be washed out w water like it can when wet.
Thanks very much everyone I can see the wood for the trees now!
A couple of additional questions.
Glue….I remember the stuff I used to use left strings and deposits everywhere and was in a tube it was the number 1 frustration. Assume the world has moved on? A lot of modellers seem to use Tamiya thin, is that the best option?
When painting should I put down a primer coat or is it ok to apply acrylic paint directly onto the model?
Any tips for effective masking - is tape the best or are there other options?
A couple of additional questions.
Glue….I remember the stuff I used to use left strings and deposits everywhere and was in a tube it was the number 1 frustration. Assume the world has moved on? A lot of modellers seem to use Tamiya thin, is that the best option?
When painting should I put down a primer coat or is it ok to apply acrylic paint directly onto the model?
Any tips for effective masking - is tape the best or are there other options?
Tamiya thin is great, or the stuff with the metal tube. Go for the thin if you’ve not got anything yet. Also get some PVA canopy adhesive (Formula 560 is great). Use it for all clear parts, and an anything non-structural like antenna, wheel covers etc. It’s water soluble and can be re-dissolved if you screw up. You can also dilute it and wick it into any small gaps with a paintbrush as a filler. Wipe excess with a damp cloth. It’s a very low-risk method of assembling secondary parts together, and is more than strong enough once cured. It dries clear too.
As per the video linked previously, you don’t need primer, just make sure the plastic is clean before you paint. Washing all the parts in detergent before you start, then using latex gloves throughout the build is a good way of achieving this.. If you do want to use it, get some Tamiya fine surface primer aerosol. Be careful though, it’s easy to drench a small
Model and lose detail. I only use primer through the airbrush as either a guide coat before final painting, or on resin or metal parts.
Get Tamiya masking tape. I slways cut a fresh edge using a rule and blade. The factory edges can get contaminated and become less sticky over time. Go over the edges with a cocktail stick to press them down. Especially important when brush painting.
As per the video linked previously, you don’t need primer, just make sure the plastic is clean before you paint. Washing all the parts in detergent before you start, then using latex gloves throughout the build is a good way of achieving this.. If you do want to use it, get some Tamiya fine surface primer aerosol. Be careful though, it’s easy to drench a small
Model and lose detail. I only use primer through the airbrush as either a guide coat before final painting, or on resin or metal parts.
Get Tamiya masking tape. I slways cut a fresh edge using a rule and blade. The factory edges can get contaminated and become less sticky over time. Go over the edges with a cocktail stick to press them down. Especially important when brush painting.
Tanks are a good way in, as they can be pretty much fully assembled before painting. The finishes on the real thing were pretty rough, so a dodgy bit of glueing or masking doesn't really spoil the model.
The lack of windows helps too - always my problem with aircraft and cars.
The only really fiddly part is the tracks. I find that the one piece vinyl tracks never sag properly. I prefer kits that use individual plastic links that can be glued up in 3 or 4 sections, removed from the wheels, painted, then refitted at the end.
For "glue", I mostly use EMA Plastic Weld, applied with a very fine brush. Hold the parts in place, "wick" the solvent into the joint, and hold for a few seconds.
For parts that need to be painted before glueing in place, Canopy Glue works well. It's a type of PVA, can be thinned with water, and easy to wipe off any excess before it dries. Being water-based, it doesn't damage paint.
The lack of windows helps too - always my problem with aircraft and cars.
The only really fiddly part is the tracks. I find that the one piece vinyl tracks never sag properly. I prefer kits that use individual plastic links that can be glued up in 3 or 4 sections, removed from the wheels, painted, then refitted at the end.
For "glue", I mostly use EMA Plastic Weld, applied with a very fine brush. Hold the parts in place, "wick" the solvent into the joint, and hold for a few seconds.
For parts that need to be painted before glueing in place, Canopy Glue works well. It's a type of PVA, can be thinned with water, and easy to wipe off any excess before it dries. Being water-based, it doesn't damage paint.
Further tip for Tamiya extra thin. For large pieces hold them together dry, then put a spot of glue on the join, it will capillary into the joint. For smaller pieces I put a small dab on one of the joints to hold them together first.
Revel contactor is the glue with the metal tube, some people like it for large surfaces such as aircraft wings, I find holding the halves together with cloths pegs then using extra thin works fine.
Priming, the solvent acrylics like Tamiya, MrColour and AK real colours that come in small pots don’t need primer as they adhere well and are fairly tough, they also airbrush better than they brush. Same for the Tamiya rattle cans. The true acrylics like Vallejo, AK that come in dropper bottles do need a primer, they are also easier to brush paint large areas. I’ve never got the hang of airbrushing the true acrylics, but that may be down to my lack of technique.
One advantage of priming is it allows you to see and correct any flaws in your build before the top coat is applied.
Revel contactor is the glue with the metal tube, some people like it for large surfaces such as aircraft wings, I find holding the halves together with cloths pegs then using extra thin works fine.
Priming, the solvent acrylics like Tamiya, MrColour and AK real colours that come in small pots don’t need primer as they adhere well and are fairly tough, they also airbrush better than they brush. Same for the Tamiya rattle cans. The true acrylics like Vallejo, AK that come in dropper bottles do need a primer, they are also easier to brush paint large areas. I’ve never got the hang of airbrushing the true acrylics, but that may be down to my lack of technique.
One advantage of priming is it allows you to see and correct any flaws in your build before the top coat is applied.
Any thoughts on this as a starter kit?
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-60775-vough...
paintjob looks simple enough (famous last words), not too many obvious fiddly bits.
Always thought the Corsair looked a bit more interesting with that wing and colour scheme.
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-60775-vough...
paintjob looks simple enough (famous last words), not too many obvious fiddly bits.
Always thought the Corsair looked a bit more interesting with that wing and colour scheme.
dmack said:
Any thoughts on this as a starter kit?
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-60775-vough...
paintjob looks simple enough (famous last words), not too many obvious fiddly bits.
Always thought the Corsair looked a bit more interesting with that wing and colour scheme.
Well, it’s Tamiya, which is a good start, and a few reviews online seem to be very positive so it would be a thumbs-up from me.https://www.scalemates.com/kits/tamiya-60775-vough...
paintjob looks simple enough (famous last words), not too many obvious fiddly bits.
Always thought the Corsair looked a bit more interesting with that wing and colour scheme.
If you’re brush painting, I’d get some Vallejo Model Colour paints and get started.
ETA the paint codes might be the same as the Hellcat I mentioned (at least for one scheme option):
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Edited by dr_gn on Sunday 24th March 15:25
I've just come back to model making as one of my sons started making kits and I got all nostalgic about building them.
I've gone for 1/35th scale tanks etc, I have a few left from my youth, and have been stocking up, buying Tamiya kits from Hobbycraft as they have a spend £15 and get £5 off offer on this month. The Hobbycraft offer is per £15 spend, so you can make multiple £15 purchases on line, click and collect or in store, they sell a range of paints, glues, tools and kits, so there is the potential to make a worthwhile saving.
The thin Tamiya glue is better than the Revell with a long thin applicator as I've found that the applicator gets clogged up.
The Vallego website has a section with data sheets giving details of various painting techniques,
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/step-by-step/
and I bought a book which is a bit of an idiots guide to painting, but I haven't a clue so it is very helpful
https://www.hobbies.co.uk/vallejo-book-airbrush-an...
I've gone for 1/35th scale tanks etc, I have a few left from my youth, and have been stocking up, buying Tamiya kits from Hobbycraft as they have a spend £15 and get £5 off offer on this month. The Hobbycraft offer is per £15 spend, so you can make multiple £15 purchases on line, click and collect or in store, they sell a range of paints, glues, tools and kits, so there is the potential to make a worthwhile saving.
The thin Tamiya glue is better than the Revell with a long thin applicator as I've found that the applicator gets clogged up.
The Vallego website has a section with data sheets giving details of various painting techniques,
https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/step-by-step/
and I bought a book which is a bit of an idiots guide to painting, but I haven't a clue so it is very helpful
https://www.hobbies.co.uk/vallejo-book-airbrush-an...
Edited by PH5121 on Monday 25th March 15:55
Eric Mc said:
Regarding metal applicators, pull out the applicator, grab it with a pair of pliars and then hold it in a candle flame for a few minutes. That usually burns away any of the cement that was causing the clogging.
Just be careful
I keep a length of spare guitar string handy to clear out the tube every few applications.Just be careful
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