Baseboard for Hornby set

[Craikeybaby]

I was always a Scalextric boy growing up, and did not have a trainset, however, I have been tasked with setting up a baseboard for a Hornby set by Christmas...

My father-in-law is a train enthusiast and has always talked about a future "train set project", then when my kids came along, 7 years ago, it was turned into "train set with the grandkids". This year my wife decided to nudge him in the direction by buying him a Hornby starter set, the Valley Drifter, for his birthday in the summer. However, it has stayed in the box due to a lack of baseboard. So before the kids are too old to enjoy it with him, we are going to take it into our own hands, so I need to build a baseboard by Christmas.

It seems like it will need an 1800 x 1200 baseboard, to go with the track mat, and allow for future expansion. That is going to be a nightmare to transport, so I was wondering if I could get away with 3x 600 x 1200 sheets of 9mm ply on a CLS framework with the joins being along a length of CLS. The plan would be to cut everything to size, paint the ply, maybe drill some pilot holes and assemble at our destination. Does this sound viable?

I have ordered some track pins to nail the track down, but is there anything else that I am likely to need above what is in the set.

[kiethton]

If you're anywhere near Orpington my parents are having a clear out, including a hornby base board - welcome to it

[Craikeybaby]

I lived down that way, in Biggin Hill, many years ago, but I am up in the Midlands these days. Thanks for the offer though.

[bigpriest]

Using smaller sheets is a good idea for future transport / dismantling. You might need some underlay like cork sheeting to act as sound deadening / vibration control. I'd lose a few hours on YouTube just to get an idea of best practice. Once you find one model railway channel there are are hundreds more.

Good one - Chadwick

[Craikeybaby]

I knocked this up in CAD to show what I mean:

[DIW35]

If you are go the multi board route, consider using something like this between the boards to make sure they line up correctly when putting them together.

Baseboard Dowels

There's nothing worse than trying to run a train where the track doesn't line up over joints in the baseboard because the baseboard isn't aligned correctly.

You could then use something like this across the joint on both sides to pull the boards together.

Baseboard clamps

Edited by DIW35 on Monday 18th December 21:49

[Simpo Two]

DIW35 said:

If you are go the multi board route, consider using something like this between the boards to make sure they line up correctly when putting them together

They'll be as accurate as the holes used the drill them.

The OP is planning to screw the sections onto a framework; as it will cover the joins too then it will all be held flat. However I'd want thicker than 9mm ply - for something that size at least 12mm and maybe 18mm. It will be effing heavy though.

The OP's visuals look good to me - maybe add diagonals if the ply is thin.

Edited by Simpo Two on Monday 18th December 22:48

[Craikeybaby]

bigpriest said:

Using smaller sheets is a good idea for future transport / dismantling. You might need some underlay like cork sheeting to act as sound deadening / vibration control. I'd lose a few hours on YouTube just to get an idea of best practice. Once you find one model railway channel there are are hundreds more.

Good one - Chadwick

Thanks, ended up losing a few hours to that last night. Going to see how we get on without the cork for now, as it is just a basic oval at the moment. Hopefully it will be expanding soon though.

Simpo Two said:

They'll be as accurate as the holes used the drill them.

The OP is planning to screw the sections onto a framework; as it will cover the joins too then it will all be held flat. However I'd want thicker than 9mm ply - for something that size at least 12mm and maybe 18mm. It will be effing heavy though.

The OP's visuals look good to me - maybe add diagonals if the ply is thin.

Edited by Simpo Two on Monday 18th December 22:48

Thanks. It is trying to find a balance between between being solid enough for the track and light enough to move. 9mm ply has been mentioned in a few guide that I have seen, but do not want to go thinner than that for sure.

[Simpo Two]

Craikeybaby said:

Thanks. It is trying to find a balance between between being solid enough for the track and light enough to move. 9mm ply has been mentioned in a few guide that I have seen, but do not want to go thinner than that for sure.

I think that with some diagonal bracing across the rectangles you might get away with 9mm. It will certainly be lighter and cheaper.

[spitfire-ian]

I think I used 9mm ply for my layout in the shed.

I had 8'x4' sheets cut into 2' wide sections and mounted onto framing around the edges. Definitely no need for cross bracing. There does seem to be a fascination with making baseboards stupidly rigid. It's more important to get them to meet on the level and straight rather than worry if the middle sags a bit.

[Collectingbrass]

I would, as is traditional, run it on the carpet for christmas then get kits from https://www.whiterosemodelworks.co.uk/product/base... which go together square and true and are predrilled for connection dowels etc

[Yertis]

spitfire-ian said:

I think I used 9mm ply for my layout in the shed.

I had 8'x4' sheets cut into 2' wide sections and mounted onto framing around the edges. Definitely no need for cross bracing. There does seem to be a fascination with making baseboards stupidly rigid. It's more important to get them to meet on the level and straight rather than worry if the middle sags a bit.

Rigid and not sagging is pretty important though, you don't want your trains running along a rollercoaster.

[spitfire-ian]

Yertis said:

spitfire-ian said:

I think I used 9mm ply for my layout in the shed.

I had 8'x4' sheets cut into 2' wide sections and mounted onto framing around the edges. Definitely no need for cross bracing. There does seem to be a fascination with making baseboards stupidly rigid. It's more important to get them to meet on the level and straight rather than worry if the middle sags a bit.

Rigid and not sagging is pretty important though, you don't want your trains running along a rollercoaster.

Of course if you make them out of something far too thin, however my comment was more an observation that people add over the top bracing and strengthening pieces when in reality it doesn't need it.

Unless you make the baseboards out of very thin stuff then it really isn't going to sag to any noticeable extent. My 9mm boards are fine with just edge pieces.

[Craikeybaby]

spitfire-ian said:

I think I used 9mm ply for my layout in the shed.

I had 8'x4' sheets cut into 2' wide sections and mounted onto framing around the edges. Definitely no need for cross bracing. There does seem to be a fascination with making baseboards stupidly rigid. It's more important to get them to meet on the level and straight rather than worry if the middle sags a bit.

Thanks, that validates my plan.

Collectingbrass said:

I would, as is traditional, run it on the carpet for christmas then get kits from https://www.whiterosemodelworks.co.uk/product/base... which go together square and true and are predrilled for connection dowels etc

I did look at this sort of ready made set up, but they are a wee bit about our budget!

I am going to try without bracing for now, but can always add it later if there is any sagging.

[woodysnr]

How about Sundela board would act as a noise reduction as opposed to MDF Plywood I think just a suggestion and easier to put track pins into.

[Craikeybaby]

I've bought the timber now...

[jet_noise]

Craikeybaby said:

I've bought the timber now...

A common recommendation I found when researching my layout was 600mm bracing for 9mm ply.

Another key thing is trueness of the CLS.
Are you able to choose good bits yourself or do you take pot luck with what is delivered?
I had to reject my 1st lot and some of the 2nd it was so warped. Some in all 3 dimensions!.

[Craikeybaby]

jet_noise said:

A common recommendation I found when researching my layout was 600mm bracing for 9mm ply.

Another key thing is trueness of the CLS.
Are you able to choose good bits yourself or do you take pot luck with what is delivered?
I had to reject my 1st lot and some of the 2nd it was so warped. Some in all 3 dimensions!.

That was I found, and am working to.

I went to pick the timber myself - one of the benefits of owning a van.

I have made a start yesterday as had a free afternoon, except that I had a call from school to say my son needed to go to A&E. I got the ply measured with pilot holes drilled and countersunk. Just a few more bits to of CLS to cut tomorrow.

[jet_noise]

Craikeybaby said:

I went to pick the timber myself - one of the benefits of owning a van.

Well played.
I can just about get a few 8' batten into my Jazz shed diagonally so have to cut stuff up in the merchant car park and it's at least a 50mile round trip. Quantity & 8'x4' sheets have to be delivered!

[kiethton]

jet_noise said:

Craikeybaby said:

I went to pick the timber myself - one of the benefits of owning a van.

Well played.
I can just about get a few 8' batten into my Jazz shed diagonally so have to cut stuff up in the merchant car park and it's at least a 50mile round trip. Quantity & 8'x4' sheets have to be delivered!

Many times have I "jousted" 4.2m lengths of skirting through the passenger window of our 1-series...don't have the pic but here is some 3m drain pipe...