Making small plastic items
Discussion
I have an idea to make small badges, the sort you see on the back of a car. Size is small, only 35 x 20mm and 3mm thick. They need to have a shiny chrome-effect finish.
3D printing is out, partly because I don't have a 3D printer, and also because the surface must be perfectly smooth. I was thinking of making a mould using an existing badge, then filling it with resin, and when set, using a chrome silver aerosol. Can anyone steer me towards what I need to make the mould, and what resin would be best? Ideally I'd be able to make them in batches of 20+ at a time.
I used some polyester resin for a woodturning project once, but after about 3 years it had set solid and 90% of it was wasted. Hoping not to repeat that.
3D printing is out, partly because I don't have a 3D printer, and also because the surface must be perfectly smooth. I was thinking of making a mould using an existing badge, then filling it with resin, and when set, using a chrome silver aerosol. Can anyone steer me towards what I need to make the mould, and what resin would be best? Ideally I'd be able to make them in batches of 20+ at a time.
I used some polyester resin for a woodturning project once, but after about 3 years it had set solid and 90% of it was wasted. Hoping not to repeat that.
Could you use acrylic, you can get heavily silvered that looks like polished stainless, however its not all the way through, just the surface, but it can be cut with a co2 laser easily and thats with 3M double tape already applied. We use this method for commercial signs and they look great for many years. The black lower tends to look like a shadow and looks like it should be there, you can even take the outer edge of the 'letter' off making it a black border around the silver or the other way around depending on the acrylic and what laser you are using. We use them for nameplates also on yachts and towers.
simply peel and stick. Otherwise you might be able to make a mold and use craft resin with a silver pigment. Otherwise its a fibre laser to cut stainless steel and put resin over the top? I presume its to do raised lettering or logos on a vehicle.
simply peel and stick. Otherwise you might be able to make a mold and use craft resin with a silver pigment. Otherwise its a fibre laser to cut stainless steel and put resin over the top? I presume its to do raised lettering or logos on a vehicle.
Ozzie Dave said:
Could you use acrylic, you can get heavily silvered that looks like polished stainless, however its not all the way through, just the surface, but it can be cut with a co2 laser easily and thats with 3M double tape already applied. We use this method for commercial signs and they look great for many years. The black lower tends to look like a shadow and looks like it should be there, you can even take the outer edge of the 'letter' off making it a black border around the silver or the other way around depending on the acrylic and what laser you are using. We use them for nameplates also on yachts and towers.
simply peel and stick. Otherwise you might be able to make a mold and use craft resin with a silver pigment. Otherwise its a fibre laser to cut stainless steel and put resin over the top? I presume its to do raised lettering or logos on a vehicle.
Here's the badge I'd like to reproduce- as you can see it's quite indented and very shiny. I have no lasers, so think that moulding in resin and spraying with 'chrome' paint is the only way - unless you have a cunning plan...?simply peel and stick. Otherwise you might be able to make a mold and use craft resin with a silver pigment. Otherwise its a fibre laser to cut stainless steel and put resin over the top? I presume its to do raised lettering or logos on a vehicle.
I made some new bushes for suspension, using both steel and polyurethane, first you take a mould, thats a simple case of making a small 'tray sides and separate bottom' and lining with plasticene to half height then spray with release agent, place the badge in it face up, after spraying again with release agent. mix up some silicone and pour over the top, it will set in about 30 minutes (or does here as its 25 degrees frequently). Turn over and remove the plasticene when dry.
You are left with the mould the shape and impression of the badge.
Then you can use clear acrylic resin and add the tint (silver, and it does not take much) and mix carefully so as to avoid bubbles. spray release agent into the mould and apply the tinted resin. at this point I usually tap it carefully to ensure all bubbles are removed and leave to dry. removal is just by peeling the silicone from its tray. to fix I would use 3M double sided tape, we have tried many other brands- but always end up back with it, it just works better.
Otherwise if you have an Ai or DWG file I can try on the laser but it will take me a week to get the time unfortunately.
You are left with the mould the shape and impression of the badge.
Then you can use clear acrylic resin and add the tint (silver, and it does not take much) and mix carefully so as to avoid bubbles. spray release agent into the mould and apply the tinted resin. at this point I usually tap it carefully to ensure all bubbles are removed and leave to dry. removal is just by peeling the silicone from its tray. to fix I would use 3M double sided tape, we have tried many other brands- but always end up back with it, it just works better.
Otherwise if you have an Ai or DWG file I can try on the laser but it will take me a week to get the time unfortunately.
If you make the part, then apply something like this ?
https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/300x160mm-chrome-...
https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/300x160mm-chrome-...
Regbuser said:
If you make the part, then apply something like this ?
https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/300x160mm-chrome-...
Haven't see that one before - it says 'conforms to all curvatures'... Have you tried it?https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/300x160mm-chrome-...
Ozzie Dave said:
I am amking the presumption that its being used outside, is this so?
Yes, it would be on a car. I've tried aluminium leaf on things in the past but it shows small wrinkles so wouldn't work on this.Maybe it's not worth the effort, or not feasible, for a pocket money hobby after all.
I would try resin, if you backed it in silver, that may work, the laser, definitely as I've done many (yes it also makes great plaques for going on anything (pet and even low cost funeral stones)). if its a low cost hobby then it can be a bit of a problem, Diode is useless, CO2 does not work on metal, but will remove a layer of paint leaving an aluminum finish that looks smart, but to do properly would cost thousands. But I suspect resin is worth playing with as the cost outlay is very minimal and you could test for well under 100 pounds and try a few different things and ideas, as long as you dont cost in time when playing(sorry learning) but after some experimentation I suspect you could end up with a product that has many different uses, and build on that to even coloured/printed badges.
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