Removing overspray canopy

[r4_rick]

Evening All
A bit hacked off as I failed to mask the underside of a motorcycle windshield

I recall reading that if I were to try and wipe off with alcohol it would make the clear part go foggy, is that a thing ?

For those wondering why it would be attached to the fairing, it’s the Tamiya VFR I am making and all the fairing parts are clear plastic.

[Super Sonic]

Gently wet sand it off w fine abrasive paper. Tamiye do some really fine stuff, 2000 and up, which will polish it up a treat. It's not cheap, but is made for plastic and doesn't clog much. Be gentle and patient. Oh and keep it wet.

[r4_rick]

Super Sonic said:

Gently wet sand it off w fine abrasive paper. Tamiye do some really fine stuff, 2000 and up, which will polish it up a treat. It's not cheap, but is made for plastic and doesn't clog much. Be gentle and patient. Oh and keep it wet.

Thanks !

[Simpo Two]

I'd say it depends what solvent the paint uses - it might be water-based.

Not sure why alcohol - presumably meths (methanol) - would dissolve plastic; I use it as a degreasant. But white spirit probably would.

Edited by Simpo Two on Monday 21st November 21:08

[Mr Squarekins]

wouldn't T-cut remove it and not scratch? May in fact improve the clear canopy?

[dr_gn]

Get some scrap of the exact same clear plastic (the sprue the part was on would be ideal) and replicate the overspray. Once set, you can try whatever solvent or technique you want, without potentially ruining the model part. Try dipping a cotton bud in whatever thinner it uses, and lightly rubbing it away (may take time depending on how long the paint has been on). If no luck with that, try a cocktail stick dipped in the thinner and try scraping it off with that. If no luck again, get yourself some Tamiya Finishing Compounds, and cloths, and go from coarse to fine to finish (using a different cloth for each, and remove all traces of compound between grades. If that doesn’t work you may be better getting a new part from the kit importers and starting again.

I’ve found Tamiya X20A Thinners to be pretty effective on acrylics and some lacquers, but whatever you do, don’t try anything on the actual part before proving it on scrap first.

[Starfighter]

Even with a very fine abrasive you may need to add a clear gloss to the part after polishing. Humbrol clear does well on canopy parts as a dip straight from r to he bottle. Clear parts often benefit from dipping before masking as it gives an extra safety margin.

Also don’t use regular cement or clear parts PVA or special clear fix adhesives only.

[Horbury56]

It depends on how heavy your overspray is, but I have had reasonable success with a wooden cocktail stick dipped in IPA (that's isopropyl alcohol, not Indian Pale Ale). Gently rubbing the overspray seems to do the job. Polishing pads (down to 12,000 grit) will bring up clear plastic nice and bright.