How stiff is plasticard?

[Murph7355]

I'm aiming to fix up a couple of old Tamiya R/C tanks I have here, and there are a couple of parts missing on one (M26 Pershing) from the turret that help locate the gun barrel and make it pivot cleanly.

The sprue is meant to be available but looks to be about £50 and out of stock everywhere. I also only need a couple of the smaller parts off the sprue.

There are two of each on the turret (one for each side of the gun breech), and I still have one side.

I've thought about seeing if I can get them 3d printed, but am not having much joy without having a 3d model of the parts. So now I'm wondering if I can build some up out of plasticard. They're largely hidden on the kit so the detail on the larger part isn't a necessity.

The parts hold moving elements together so they need to be reasonably stiff. But am think a few thin bits of plasticard glued together might work? Or perhaps a thicker bit and then file the shapes out?

Poor image of the parts on their sprue attached for ref.

[dr_gn]

Plasticard should be fine, after all it’s the same material as the kit part (unless they’re ABS or nylon, which seems unlikely). I’d try building up the features with thinner sheet, stuck together with thin liquid cement and filed to shape. Just make sure you leave it all to set overnight.

[MitchT]

Depends how thick it is. Also, you can get plasticard tubes, box sections and T shaped rods that will give extra structural strength.

[Murph7355]

dr_gn said:

Plasticard should be fine, after all it’s the same material as the kit part (unless they’re ABS or nylon, which seems unlikely). I’d try building up the features with thinner sheet, stuck together with thin liquid cement and filed to shape. Just make sure you leave it all to set overnight.

Thanks - will get some ordered.

On the smaller part, it has a "protruding socket" moulded as one piece. The socket holds a metal pin, supporting the breach whilst allowing it to rise/lower.

Presumably the best bet on this would be to build a block of the right dimensions, and then file it to leave the protruding socket. Rather than building a shallower block and sticking on a piece of tube or something?

[dr_gn]

I’d get some tube of the right size - or make some, then drill the rectangular plate(s) to suit and press/bond the tube into them.

You can form fillet radii (if you need them) with Milliput when everything is set.

[Murph7355]

Dismantling the turret of the tank to start taking measurements and to see what thickness card to buy, something caught my eye in the hull of the tank underneath the gearbox - the two parts I was missing! Which has saved a good deal of hassle.

I'll post another question about which glues are best shortly

Thanks all.