First RC car - help me spend some money?
Discussion
When I say spend, I mean waste frivolously 
I’ve never had an RC car before but think I should get one, for absolutely no reason at all
No idea what to get but think it should be electric rather than nitro and possibly brushless, rather than brushed. Although that may be a bit silly?
Don’t want to spend a whole heap, probably a couple of hundred quid and would prefer an off-road one.
I’d like to ‘build’ it, as in put it together but I deffo don’t want to have to paint it.
Possibly something like this?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-carnage-1-10-4wd-...
Or this?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-vantage-1-10-4wd-...
What would you chaps recommend?
I’ve never had an RC car before but think I should get one, for absolutely no reason at all
No idea what to get but think it should be electric rather than nitro and possibly brushless, rather than brushed. Although that may be a bit silly?
Don’t want to spend a whole heap, probably a couple of hundred quid and would prefer an off-road one.
I’d like to ‘build’ it, as in put it together but I deffo don’t want to have to paint it.
Possibly something like this?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-carnage-1-10-4wd-...
Or this?
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-vantage-1-10-4wd-...
What would you chaps recommend?
Do you know where you will be using it?
If in big open areas, speed can be a good thing. If it is in a small space, there are things called crawlers, which might appeal in a different way.
If you want to build, there are not that many 'kits' these days. Tamiya is about the only one offering this outside of dedicated racing machines. All kits will require you to paint the body, unless you spend extra on a pre-painted one or pay someone to paint it for you.
Everything else comes as RTR (ready to run).
Most RTR's come with enough to get you going. But usually only come with a slow charger and a crappy battery. So you may want to budget to upgrade these. The radio gear with the RTR's is generally pretty s
te too. Esp if you end up with multiple models.
Almost any 'kit' will require you to buy all of these electronics on top of the kit price.
The FTX kits aren't bad, but potentially a little fragile. But spares are cheap and plentiful to off set this. Some of the other brands are often no more durable, but have harder to get spares.
But it does depend how you drive them to some extent. I have an FTX Carnage. Which has been pretty good. But then you get some that want to jump them 20 foot in the air and wonder why they break when they land
Traxxas are well know with good spares too and generally more durable. But more pricey.
Arrma also seem to be quite good, although some of their older models are harder to get bits for. So I have a question mark on how easy their current range will be to support in future years. That said Horizon Hobby fairly recently bought Arrma out, which should hopefully make this not such an issue. But only time will tell.
I find something with bigger tyres and ground clearance such as a stadium truck, truggy or 1/8th buggy work best on a wide variety of surfaces. Running on grass at a local park can really blunt the performance and runtimes of the 1/10th buggies.
Will post a few suggestions later on
If in big open areas, speed can be a good thing. If it is in a small space, there are things called crawlers, which might appeal in a different way.
If you want to build, there are not that many 'kits' these days. Tamiya is about the only one offering this outside of dedicated racing machines. All kits will require you to paint the body, unless you spend extra on a pre-painted one or pay someone to paint it for you.
Everything else comes as RTR (ready to run).
Most RTR's come with enough to get you going. But usually only come with a slow charger and a crappy battery. So you may want to budget to upgrade these. The radio gear with the RTR's is generally pretty s
te too. Esp if you end up with multiple models.Almost any 'kit' will require you to buy all of these electronics on top of the kit price.
The FTX kits aren't bad, but potentially a little fragile. But spares are cheap and plentiful to off set this. Some of the other brands are often no more durable, but have harder to get spares.
But it does depend how you drive them to some extent. I have an FTX Carnage. Which has been pretty good. But then you get some that want to jump them 20 foot in the air and wonder why they break when they land
Traxxas are well know with good spares too and generally more durable. But more pricey.
Arrma also seem to be quite good, although some of their older models are harder to get bits for. So I have a question mark on how easy their current range will be to support in future years. That said Horizon Hobby fairly recently bought Arrma out, which should hopefully make this not such an issue. But only time will tell.
I find something with bigger tyres and ground clearance such as a stadium truck, truggy or 1/8th buggy work best on a wide variety of surfaces. Running on grass at a local park can really blunt the performance and runtimes of the 1/10th buggies.
Will post a few suggestions later on
I’d probably use it in the garden (not huge but not tiny), or take it to the woods a few minutes away. There is also a golf course running through the woods, so could/would use it there too (whilst we are on lockdown and it is closed).
There is also a proper track nearby - I’m sure I could sneak into that whilst the local club aren’t using it
I think I am talking myself into brushless?
There is also a proper track nearby - I’m sure I could sneak into that whilst the local club aren’t using it
I think I am talking myself into brushless?
Makes sense to go brushless right from the start. If you buy the electronics and batteries from the right place, it isn't that much more expensive than brushed. You'll get longer runtimes between charging from brushless, as the motors are quite a bit more efficient. You can also fit higher-capacity batteries, as LiPos are smaller and lighter than the NiMH often used with brushed systems.
I don't run cars anymore, switched to boats. I get most of my electronics and batteries from Hobbyking.
Don't rule out a proper kit. There are quite a few people out there who will paint the clear Lexan shells for you at reasonable prices. Try the local club (or join their Facebook group), they will probably know of someone who will do an excellent airbrush job for not much more than you'd spend buying the required rattle cans.
It might also be worth finding out what classes the local club runs, and getting something that you can run at their meetings. Most clubs welcome total beginners, as it's what keeps the hobby alive.
I don't run cars anymore, switched to boats. I get most of my electronics and batteries from Hobbyking.
Don't rule out a proper kit. There are quite a few people out there who will paint the clear Lexan shells for you at reasonable prices. Try the local club (or join their Facebook group), they will probably know of someone who will do an excellent airbrush job for not much more than you'd spend buying the required rattle cans.
It might also be worth finding out what classes the local club runs, and getting something that you can run at their meetings. Most clubs welcome total beginners, as it's what keeps the hobby alive.
Racing is fun, but as a rule you need a completely different type of car for racing vs bashing.
Have a look over at the modelsport forum to find someone to paint a shell for you. Although if you want a simple shell it is pretty easy to paint a single colour.
For kits, as said before. Tamiya is the main and pretty much only player in this market, unless you look at high end racing machines.
Many of the Tamiya kits are very old however. Quite fun and offer great nostalgia. But performance wise might be lacking vs more modern offerings.
Also as said before, it is my experience that 1.10th buggies tend to perform less well for bashing. The have smaller wheels and less ground clearance, so really need to be run on very short grass or a hard surface. They will get a lot of drag and friction on longer grass.
Monster trucks have plenty of clearance, but as a rule are more likely to flip over and corner less well.
The truggy or stadium truck is IMO the happy medium that you get much better ground clearance and bigger tyres, but retain good cornering stability.
Just to throw a few ideas out there:
Tamiya Blitzer Beetle (£150 kit)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-blitzer-beetle...
This is an old kit design that Tamiya have re-released. But it is the right format. However you would only want to look at mild performance setups in it. It just isn't built for high power. But would make a great all rounder IMO.
Tamiya Konghead (£170 kit)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-konghead-6x6-g...
This is one of their newer models and will handle more power. A 13T brushless setup and LiPo would go very well in it and it'll go anywhere. Also a lot of fun to drive. Although maybe a bit wacky looking for some.
With the above you'll need steering servos, radio gear and if you want to go brushless a motor and ESC, as well as a charger and at least one battery. I don't think you will do this for £200 total. But I doubt this would be the case with any kit tbh.
If you go down the kit route, you can buy the electronics cheaper by shopping about.
If you want to go up a step there is the Traxxas Stampede kit. This is a 4wd Monster truck, but it is pretty good.
Traxxas Stampede (kit £270)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-stampede-4x4-...
But it is quite a jump in price. But does come with everything you need apart from a battery/charger, i.e. motors and radio gear included. It is a brushed version, but they are pretty good brushed motors and on a LiPo won't be lacking performance IMO.
For RTR offerings.
The FTX Carnage is fine, I have one. but some find them a little fragile. Despite being offered as brushless, the design is more suited to a lesser powered brushed setup IMO. You'll break it less.
For only slightly more money:
Maverick Quantum+ XT (RTR £250)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-quantum-xt-f...
It looks pretty good and has had some good reviews. I don't think parts supply is always as good as FTX and maybe a bit more money for some parts, but this looks like a better offering than the Carnage if I'm being honest, despite owning a Carnage.
Traxxas are worth considering too. Very big player in the market and their vehicles are well supported and easy to upgrade.
Traxxas Rustler (RTR £179)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-rustler-xl-5-...
The Rustler is 2wd and capable. This is a brushed version, but would come in for your budget. And I doubt you'd be disappointed. they do offer it as a brushless version, but it costs £319 (https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-rustler-vxl-tsm-rtr-yellow/rc-car-products/1332038) which is a big jump IMO in cost. It is possible to upgrade the base version for about £50 to brushless if you so wanted too with aftermarket bits.
And I'd still put a vote in for Arrma.
Arrma Typon V3 (RTR £239)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/arrma-typhon-v3-mega-...
This is a 1/8th buggy, so will cover longer grass better. Brushed again, but good.
Arrma Granite V3 (RTR £249)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/arrma-granite-v3-mega...
Basically the same as the Tyhon but as a monster truck with more clearance.
All and any of the above will do the bashing and speed thing well IMO. If you want to look at lower speed crawlers or trail runners, then there are difference RC's to look at. These would not be about speed, but about low speed control, climbing obstacles and scale driving. Which is all fun in its own right too.
Have a look over at the modelsport forum to find someone to paint a shell for you. Although if you want a simple shell it is pretty easy to paint a single colour.
For kits, as said before. Tamiya is the main and pretty much only player in this market, unless you look at high end racing machines.
Many of the Tamiya kits are very old however. Quite fun and offer great nostalgia. But performance wise might be lacking vs more modern offerings.
Also as said before, it is my experience that 1.10th buggies tend to perform less well for bashing. The have smaller wheels and less ground clearance, so really need to be run on very short grass or a hard surface. They will get a lot of drag and friction on longer grass.
Monster trucks have plenty of clearance, but as a rule are more likely to flip over and corner less well.
The truggy or stadium truck is IMO the happy medium that you get much better ground clearance and bigger tyres, but retain good cornering stability.
Just to throw a few ideas out there:
Tamiya Blitzer Beetle (£150 kit)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-blitzer-beetle...
This is an old kit design that Tamiya have re-released. But it is the right format. However you would only want to look at mild performance setups in it. It just isn't built for high power. But would make a great all rounder IMO.
Tamiya Konghead (£170 kit)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-konghead-6x6-g...
This is one of their newer models and will handle more power. A 13T brushless setup and LiPo would go very well in it and it'll go anywhere. Also a lot of fun to drive. Although maybe a bit wacky looking for some.
With the above you'll need steering servos, radio gear and if you want to go brushless a motor and ESC, as well as a charger and at least one battery. I don't think you will do this for £200 total. But I doubt this would be the case with any kit tbh.
If you go down the kit route, you can buy the electronics cheaper by shopping about.
If you want to go up a step there is the Traxxas Stampede kit. This is a 4wd Monster truck, but it is pretty good.
Traxxas Stampede (kit £270)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-stampede-4x4-...
But it is quite a jump in price. But does come with everything you need apart from a battery/charger, i.e. motors and radio gear included. It is a brushed version, but they are pretty good brushed motors and on a LiPo won't be lacking performance IMO.
For RTR offerings.
The FTX Carnage is fine, I have one. but some find them a little fragile. Despite being offered as brushless, the design is more suited to a lesser powered brushed setup IMO. You'll break it less.
For only slightly more money:
Maverick Quantum+ XT (RTR £250)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-quantum-xt-f...
It looks pretty good and has had some good reviews. I don't think parts supply is always as good as FTX and maybe a bit more money for some parts, but this looks like a better offering than the Carnage if I'm being honest, despite owning a Carnage.
Traxxas are worth considering too. Very big player in the market and their vehicles are well supported and easy to upgrade.
Traxxas Rustler (RTR £179)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-rustler-xl-5-...
The Rustler is 2wd and capable. This is a brushed version, but would come in for your budget. And I doubt you'd be disappointed. they do offer it as a brushless version, but it costs £319 (https://www.modelsport.co.uk/traxxas-rustler-vxl-tsm-rtr-yellow/rc-car-products/1332038) which is a big jump IMO in cost. It is possible to upgrade the base version for about £50 to brushless if you so wanted too with aftermarket bits.
And I'd still put a vote in for Arrma.
Arrma Typon V3 (RTR £239)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/arrma-typhon-v3-mega-...
This is a 1/8th buggy, so will cover longer grass better. Brushed again, but good.
Arrma Granite V3 (RTR £249)
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/arrma-granite-v3-mega...
Basically the same as the Tyhon but as a monster truck with more clearance.
All and any of the above will do the bashing and speed thing well IMO. If you want to look at lower speed crawlers or trail runners, then there are difference RC's to look at. These would not be about speed, but about low speed control, climbing obstacles and scale driving. Which is all fun in its own right too.
pincher said:
Anyone local to SE Essex that would paint a shell?
Yup, I could!*...and you could. Most kits come with clear polycarbonate bodies that you paint on the inside, then apply stickers (usually supplied) for effect. As you are painting on the inside you don't have to worry about brush marks or runs, just mask the outer edges to prevent overspray
I used to do shells for myself and a mate when we raced touring cars (they take a beating on small indoor tracks) and just used one colour for the shell. Most shells had masks supplied for windows. The only thing I did differently to others was to cut out wheel arches before spraying, as I felt this made it easier as you can see through it.
- I can't, I'm too busy, I was just trying to express how easy it is to get a good result
Watch some YouTube on the models you fancy. Buggy style ones like your 2nd example are best for tracks/hard surface, on grass unless it’s the local cricket square, they’re a bit dull (slow)
The truggy style will be more fun in longer grass/mixed surfaces.
Tamiya are good at what they do and a great starting point for a self build with good spares back up and lots of on line and shops.
If it’s to wet your whistle why not get a wltoys 10428, they look like a right laugh, spares and upgrades available lots of reviews on YouTube.
The truggy style will be more fun in longer grass/mixed surfaces.
Tamiya are good at what they do and a great starting point for a self build with good spares back up and lots of on line and shops.
If it’s to wet your whistle why not get a wltoys 10428, they look like a right laugh, spares and upgrades available lots of reviews on YouTube.
Thanks you all for your comments - much appreciated.
I think that, relaistically, a 'build my own' is probably not that realistic for my first foray into RC - I really like the look of the Quantum+ XT that 300bhp posted above.
Am I better to just buy a bundle, or should I buy a battery and charger separately?
I think that, relaistically, a 'build my own' is probably not that realistic for my first foray into RC - I really like the look of the Quantum+ XT that 300bhp posted above.
Am I better to just buy a bundle, or should I buy a battery and charger separately?
Tis up to you really. Buying all together means you’ll get it delivered all together.
But as a rule you can buy batteries cheaper elsewhere. Such as from Hobbyking. Some places ask horrendous money for batteries.
For starting off you’ll just want some 2S Lipos. 3S is likely to be way too fast and will end up with broken parts.
There are lots of battery connectors. This is something else you might need to decide on.
Ultimately I tend to solder on new connectors of my choosing. But you can buy pre made adapters.
Not sure what the Maverick used. Probably Deans (also known as T connectors). They are ok but a bit fiddly and cheap ones aren’t nice to solder.
The XT60 is my preferred connector. A lot of Hobbyking batteries will come with these.
As for a chargers. There is loads of choice out there. I use an iMax B6AC charger. You can get them for under £25 on eBay/Amazon. Again model shops often sell much more expensive ones.
But as a rule you can buy batteries cheaper elsewhere. Such as from Hobbyking. Some places ask horrendous money for batteries.
For starting off you’ll just want some 2S Lipos. 3S is likely to be way too fast and will end up with broken parts.
There are lots of battery connectors. This is something else you might need to decide on.
Ultimately I tend to solder on new connectors of my choosing. But you can buy pre made adapters.
Not sure what the Maverick used. Probably Deans (also known as T connectors). They are ok but a bit fiddly and cheap ones aren’t nice to solder.
The XT60 is my preferred connector. A lot of Hobbyking batteries will come with these.
As for a chargers. There is loads of choice out there. I use an iMax B6AC charger. You can get them for under £25 on eBay/Amazon. Again model shops often sell much more expensive ones.
I’ve had FTX Carnage and Bugsta brushless, Traxxis Rustler VXR, Arrma 4S Kraton, Traxxis Maxx and Xmaxx, Losi Tenacity DB Pro etc.
Best basher, by a mile, is the Maxx. The FTXs broke pretty much every time they used and generally before one fulll battery had been put through them They were so bad we gave up buying individual spares and bought a complete car to strip instead. Rustler broke drive shafts at a ridiculous rate. Losi Tenacity is my favourite to drive by far and is pretty durable but not in the same league as the Maxx. The Kraton is ok but they have slipper issues, the wishbone are fragile, the tyres are crap, the radio gear is sluggish and the shocks leak.
It’s a lot of money but for hassle free rc fun I’d go for the Maxx every time.
Best basher, by a mile, is the Maxx. The FTXs broke pretty much every time they used and generally before one fulll battery had been put through them They were so bad we gave up buying individual spares and bought a complete car to strip instead. Rustler broke drive shafts at a ridiculous rate. Losi Tenacity is my favourite to drive by far and is pretty durable but not in the same league as the Maxx. The Kraton is ok but they have slipper issues, the wishbone are fragile, the tyres are crap, the radio gear is sluggish and the shocks leak.
It’s a lot of money but for hassle free rc fun I’d go for the Maxx every time.
I got my lad an FTX viper off Facebook marketplace a while back. Managed to crack 2 chassis tubs so far and now needs front suspension bracing and a uprights as week.
And its a pain on the arse to swap out those chassis tubs!
So yeah, the FTX models seem to not like crashing much at all.
And its a pain on the arse to swap out those chassis tubs!
So yeah, the FTX models seem to not like crashing much at all.
dave_s13 said:
So yeah, the FTX models seem to not like crashing much at all.
I think it depends how and where you drive them tbh. I've had mine (FTX Carnage) for years and hardly broken anything, it was also bought 2nd hand, not new. Front body mounts being the most common item or a pin on a rear shaft.Mine is now heavily upgraded, but only because I wanted to do it as a project. Ran it for ages stock. Its only when you start getting big air or driving into things that they break.
Here is mine completely stock apart from the motor/ESC/servo which are all uprated.
foxsasha said:
I’ve had FTX Carnage and Bugsta brushless, Traxxis Rustler VXR, Arrma 4S Kraton, Traxxis Maxx and Xmaxx, Losi Tenacity DB Pro etc.
Best basher, by a mile, is the Maxx. The FTXs broke pretty much every time they used and generally before one fulll battery had been put through them They were so bad we gave up buying individual spares and bought a complete car to strip instead. Rustler broke drive shafts at a ridiculous rate. Losi Tenacity is my favourite to drive by far and is pretty durable but not in the same league as the Maxx. The Kraton is ok but they have slipper issues, the wishbone are fragile, the tyres are crap, the radio gear is sluggish and the shocks leak.
It’s a lot of money but for hassle free rc fun I’d go for the Maxx every time.
Yes, I think that 300bhp alluded to the fact that an FTX can be a little fragile in ham-fisted hands Best basher, by a mile, is the Maxx. The FTXs broke pretty much every time they used and generally before one fulll battery had been put through them They were so bad we gave up buying individual spares and bought a complete car to strip instead. Rustler broke drive shafts at a ridiculous rate. Losi Tenacity is my favourite to drive by far and is pretty durable but not in the same league as the Maxx. The Kraton is ok but they have slipper issues, the wishbone are fragile, the tyres are crap, the radio gear is sluggish and the shocks leak.
It’s a lot of money but for hassle free rc fun I’d go for the Maxx every time.
, even though his has been relatively ok.I can’t really justify >£600 (even to myself) on a bit of lockdown frivolity to be honest, so I think that rules the Maxx out really.
pincher said:
Yes, I think that 300bhp alluded to the fact that an FTX can be a little fragile in ham-fisted hands , even though his has been relatively ok.
I can’t really justify >£600 (even to myself) on a bit of lockdown frivolity to be honest, so I think that rules the Maxx out really.
The more expensive RC’s like the Maxx are bigger and heavier. You’ll need more space to run them. Being heavier they also usually need bigger batteries, often 4S or even 6S. Which pushes the prices up of batteries and chargers even more so. , even though his has been relatively ok.I can’t really justify >£600 (even to myself) on a bit of lockdown frivolity to be honest, so I think that rules the Maxx out really.
Bigger things moving faster maybe stronger. But hit harder too. So often don’t really survive hugely better and sometimes worse. Parts are also often more expensive too.
Great if you have somewhere to run them. But a large 1/8th or bigger RC could be quite lethal if you hit someone with it. And are arguably not really suitable for use in parks and public places. You’d certainly want to consider some insurance should the worse happen and you injured somebody with RC’s like this.
Don’t get me wrong. Big RC cars like this are awesome. But probably not what I’d suggest a first time buyer looks at.
300bhp/ton said:
Big RC cars like this are awesome. But probably not what I’d suggest a first time buyer looks at.
I would agree - I think start off sensible and then upgrade accordingly in time (I can't believe that I just typed that! 
)Would you say that the Quantum+ XT Flux is worth the extra £100 over the non + version? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-quantum-xt-f...
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