Best way to remove overspray?

[Alex@POD]

You know those times when you realise you've made a stupid mistake, and you can't believe you were stupid enough to make it? I'm building the Tamiya Porsche 962C Shell (1/24). and I've just sprayed the body. This kit is different to the ones I made before, in that the windows are part of the main shell, and not a separate part. I masked everything as per the instructions and happily put some colour on.

It's only afterwards that I realised all the overspray inside the shell! I normally paint the visible bits black afterwards so it's not really an issue normally, but now the inside of the widows are covered in overspray. What's the best way to get rid of that without ruining the clarity of the plastic?

[Fermit and Sexy Sarah]

possibly acetone/nail varnish remover. Try on something else beforehand mind!

[dr_gn]

Acetone will totally screw it.

What paint did you use? If it’s Tamiya X- acrylic you could try using Tamiya thinners on a cotton bud.

Soaking in mineral brake fluid is an option, as is polishing with T-Cut.

Best to test any method on scrap plastic - particularly the transparent bits. It’s not going to be easy...

[jpringle819]

If it isn't too much try rubbing it with a cocktail stick. sometimes I wet the end with some isopropyl alcohol. Do not go near any plastic parts with acetone

[gruffgriff]

Feel your pain, been there, done that... which is why I always have a bottle of Meguiars plast-r-x to hand for polishing clear parts...and painted bodyshells...a very inert finisher with exceedingly fine grit to follow on after t-cut.

[Revol]

Carson paint killer or this stuff: https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-pvcu-solvent...
DO NOT use acetone.

[Alex@POD]

Thanks guys, I used Tamiya spray cans. Tamiya thinners didn't touch it, but the bottle is old so maybe that had something to do with it? I'd rather avoid soaking the whole thing in brake fluid, as the rest of the paint is good, and I'd have to find the masking sheet again. It's only the inside of the windows...
I'll try to rub a bit of brake fluid on it and see if it polishes off again.

[dr_gn]

Alex@POD said:

Thanks guys, I used Tamiya spray cans. Tamiya thinners didn't touch it, but the bottle is old so maybe that had something to do with it? I'd rather avoid soaking the whole thing in brake fluid, as the rest of the paint is good, and I'd have to find the masking sheet again. It's only the inside of the windows...
I'll try to rub a bit of brake fluid on it and see if it polishes off again.

X-20 thinners won’t touch the TS paint - different type of paint. Did you use a Tamiya spray primer?

For brake fluid you have to soak it. You could try soaking a tissue and leaving it in contact.

I think you’ll end up abrading it off with T-Cut or similar.

[Alex@POD]

dr_gn said:

X-20 thinners won’t touch the TS paint - different type of paint. Did you use a Tamiya spray primer?

For brake fluid you have to soak it. You could try soaking a tissue and leaving it in contact.

I think you’ll end up abrading it off with T-Cut or similar.

Good to know, I didn't realise the TS paints were different, I thought they were just the acrylics in a spray can. I skipped the primer on this one, out of lazyness I guess! I didn't have any and wanted to crack on...

[Fermit and Sexy Sarah]

OP, after my seemingly crap suggestion of acetone, an offer. I have a remover product, for leather pigment over spray. It is gentle enough to not harm plastic. Happy to send you (post) a small bottle of it if you'd like. I've used it to remove overspray on plastics of some pretty pricey cars (*obvs check on similar plastic)

[sbk1972]

Im in a similar situation. I used a number of cans of black smoothrite to underseal my car. Then noticed that due to the wind my front wings both had considerable over spray i.e. you can rub your hand over the pain and it now feels rough.

Is it a case of using Tcut ? Been on there now for a week so its no doubt dried and its hard.

[Alex@POD]

Fermit and Sexy Sarah said:

OP, after my seemingly crap suggestion of acetone, an offer. I have a remover product, for leather pigment over spray. It is gentle enough to not harm plastic. Happy to send you (post) a small bottle of it if you'd like. I've used it to remove overspray on plastics of some pretty pricey cars (*obvs check on similar plastic)

Thanks for the offer, I'll try and give T-cut and brake fluid a go first but I might come back your way if it doesn't work. I have a couple of bits of clear sprue from other kits to I'm hoping they'll be suitable for a test.

[dr_gn]

Alex@POD said:

dr_gn said:

X-20 thinners won’t touch the TS paint - different type of paint. Did you use a Tamiya spray primer?

For brake fluid you have to soak it. You could try soaking a tissue and leaving it in contact.

I think you’ll end up abrading it off with T-Cut or similar.

I skipped the primer on this one, out of lazyness I guess! I didn't have any and wanted to crack on...

Good - it's pretty much impossible to remove as far as I can tell.

[dr_gn]

sbk1972 said:

Im in a similar situation. I used a number of cans of black smoothrite to underseal my car. Then noticed that due to the wind my front wings both had considerable over spray i.e. you can rub your hand over the pain and it now feels rough.

Is it a case of using Tcut ? Been on there now for a week so its no doubt dried and its hard.

Having used hammerite and smoothrite sprays quite a lot in the past, I'd say you're probably stuck with abrading it off with T-cut or similar.

[dr_gn]

Alex@POD said:

Fermit and Sexy Sarah said:

OP, after my seemingly crap suggestion of acetone, an offer. I have a remover product, for leather pigment over spray. It is gentle enough to not harm plastic. Happy to send you (post) a small bottle of it if you'd like. I've used it to remove overspray on plastics of some pretty pricey cars (*obvs check on similar plastic)

Thanks for the offer, I'll try and give T-cut and brake fluid a go first but I might come back your way if it doesn't work. I have a couple of bits of clear sprue from other kits to I'm hoping they'll be suitable for a test.

Not wanting to be negative, but if you're after a perfect (or nearly perfect) finish, I'd honestly try to source a new shell. If you do end up abrading it off, the transparent plastic will bloom or even micro-crack if you're not careful.

Daft idea to incorporate the transparent bits with the body - wonder who thought up that pointless bit of 'progress'?

I've got a Rothmans 956 in the stash, and previously built the NewMan version. Both had separate glazing. I thought the 962 was the same (slightly incorrect) moulding, but clearly not.

[Alex@POD]

dr_gn said:

Not wanting to be negative, but if you're after a perfect (or nearly perfect) finish, I'd honestly try to source a new shell. If you do end up abrading it off, the transparent plastic will bloom or even micro-crack if you're not careful.

Daft idea to incorporate the transparent bits with the body - wonder who thought up that pointless bit of 'progress'?

I've got a Rothmans 956 in the stash, and previously built the NewMan version. Both had separate glazing. I thought the 962 was the same (slightly incorrect) moulding, but clearly not.

I think if I read this link correctly it was originally released in 1989:
https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=...

I'm not after a perfect finish, certainly not to your standard, but it will be obvious if the glass isn't clear. I'll try to save it anyway, that's not exactly an expensive kit so it's not the end of the world if I have to buy it again! I can use the spare parts for a diorama, to go along with my broken GT1, or use it to have a go at weathering.

[generationx]

dr_gn said:

I've got a Rothmans 956 in the stash, and previously built the NewMan version. Both had separate glazing. I thought the 962 was the same (slightly incorrect) moulding, but clearly not.

The 962 body is the same at the Tamtech 1/24 radio controlled kit - great for an R/C car but not so detailed for a scale model. Things like the solid wing supports and moulded-in glazing give the game away. As far as I recall it was released in "static" form in several liveries including Shell, Blaupunkt, FromA and Repsol, of course the aftermarket hugely expands the possibilities.

OP: As such the 'shell should be fairly easily sourced, even from your Tamiya importer, so it's probably the easiest way...

[dr_gn]

generationx said:

dr_gn said:

I've got a Rothmans 956 in the stash, and previously built the NewMan version. Both had separate glazing. I thought the 962 was the same (slightly incorrect) moulding, but clearly not.

The 962 body is the same at the Tamtech 1/24 radio controlled kit - great for an R/C car but not so detailed for a scale model. Things like the solid wing supports and moulded-in glazing give the game away. As far as I recall it was released in "static" form in several liveries including Shell, Blaupunkt, FromA and Repsol, of course the aftermarket hugely expands the possibilities.

OP: As such the 'shell should be fairly easily sourced, even from your Tamiya importer, so it's probably the easiest way...

I thought the RC versions were all 1:10. That explains it then: the liveries you mention were all 'kerbside' models with no engine detail. The Rothmans and NewMan 956s had engine detail.

[Starfighter]

Detol also works and is safe on plastic.

[davettf2]

A + for Carsons paint killer, got me out of the nasty sticky brown stuff when I did similar!!