RC Car Advice please
Poll: RC Car Advice please
Total Members Polled: 3
Discussion
I bought a WLToys 12428 for my 7 year son, and it was good fun for a few runs until an allen bolt connecting the propshaft to rear diff snapped. We were very careful with it, pretty gentle use with no big jumps etc so this was very disappointing for us both.
https://rcnewb.com/review-wltoys-12428-1-12-scale-...
I've contacted the eBay seller who's asked me in the first instance to see if I can get it repaired locally, which I think is unlikely - as yet I can't actually get hold of any reasonably local model shops and not sure they'll be interested anyhow.
This model was bought as it seemed cheap and cheerful, reasonably robust in the YouTube videos I saw, had good reviews and because you can get spares for it. However the tiny allen bolts (1.5 / 2mm) are done up so tightly I'm not sure I can get them out myself (*perhaps* with a better set of allen bolts / plusgas but I've probably stripped them now).
So was thinking of seeing if I can get my money back (goods unfit for purpose IMO), but if I have no luck what would you suggest?
A. Buy a better allen key set plus the spare parts and attempt a repair (circa £30)
B. Buy another of the same car to use as spares (circa £60)
C. eBay it for spares or repair / throw it away and buy something else (believe the batteries would work in a Tamiya with an adapter at least)
If C - was thinking of a Tamiya, figuring if I've built it myself I should be able to fix it, it'll be better quality and spares availability should be decent. I was looking at entry level ones (e.g. Rising Fighter) but a thread on here suggested going for a newer design (e.g. Neo Fighter). So as ever with cars budget creep comes in ;-)
https://rcnewb.com/review-wltoys-12428-1-12-scale-...
I've contacted the eBay seller who's asked me in the first instance to see if I can get it repaired locally, which I think is unlikely - as yet I can't actually get hold of any reasonably local model shops and not sure they'll be interested anyhow.
This model was bought as it seemed cheap and cheerful, reasonably robust in the YouTube videos I saw, had good reviews and because you can get spares for it. However the tiny allen bolts (1.5 / 2mm) are done up so tightly I'm not sure I can get them out myself (*perhaps* with a better set of allen bolts / plusgas but I've probably stripped them now).
So was thinking of seeing if I can get my money back (goods unfit for purpose IMO), but if I have no luck what would you suggest?
A. Buy a better allen key set plus the spare parts and attempt a repair (circa £30)
B. Buy another of the same car to use as spares (circa £60)
C. eBay it for spares or repair / throw it away and buy something else (believe the batteries would work in a Tamiya with an adapter at least)
If C - was thinking of a Tamiya, figuring if I've built it myself I should be able to fix it, it'll be better quality and spares availability should be decent. I was looking at entry level ones (e.g. Rising Fighter) but a thread on here suggested going for a newer design (e.g. Neo Fighter). So as ever with cars budget creep comes in ;-)
danp said:
So was thinking of seeing if I can get my money back (goods unfit for purpose IMO), but if I have no luck what would you suggest?
I'm not saying you shouldn't do this. But I do think it is a bit cheeky tbh.RC cars of any make will need maintaining, and having the correct tools is a must really.
If you are unable to fix it yourself, you can see if you can get someone to help or pay someone. A decent local model shop is likely to help.
Have you tried researching the part(s) you'll need?
Buying something else is an option. But the reality is, whatever else you buy will also likely need maintenance at some point too.
300bhp/ton said:
I'm not saying you shouldn't do this. But I do think it is a bit cheeky tbh.
RC cars of any make will need maintaining, and having the correct tools is a must really.
If you are unable to fix it yourself, you can see if you can get someone to help or pay someone. A decent local model shop is likely to help.
Have you tried researching the part(s) you'll need?
Buying something else is an option. But the reality is, whatever else you buy will also likely need maintenance at some point too.
It only did a few laps of the garden and driveway before going to FWD only so I’m not sure if I’m being cheeky or not!RC cars of any make will need maintaining, and having the correct tools is a must really.
If you are unable to fix it yourself, you can see if you can get someone to help or pay someone. A decent local model shop is likely to help.
Have you tried researching the part(s) you'll need?
Buying something else is an option. But the reality is, whatever else you buy will also likely need maintenance at some point too.
Yes parts are available on eBay (rear axle and drive shaft) for about £20.
I do have Allen keys you know ;-) but the bolts are ridiculously tight!
1. get a proper hardened hex driver. You will round every screw in time if you just use cheap allen keys. This is not the makers fault. Most serious RCers replace most screws eventually.
2. the screw you describe is a grub screw and they are sold by the millions on ebay. You dont need custom screws for hobby grade RC, that is their advantage over toys.
To be sure just put up a clear photo of the part in place, showing the broken bit.
You really shouldnt buy a new buggy each time a screw breaks. Dont oyu know anyone at work who has had an RC before. It really is a tiny fix. Anyone in the hobby for a few years will have a tray full of replacement screws.
Whereabouts are you?
Oh and Tamiya arent particular better quality, as most of their buggies are designs from the 70s and will use the same low quality screws.
2. the screw you describe is a grub screw and they are sold by the millions on ebay. You dont need custom screws for hobby grade RC, that is their advantage over toys.
To be sure just put up a clear photo of the part in place, showing the broken bit.
You really shouldnt buy a new buggy each time a screw breaks. Dont oyu know anyone at work who has had an RC before. It really is a tiny fix. Anyone in the hobby for a few years will have a tray full of replacement screws.
Whereabouts are you?
Oh and Tamiya arent particular better quality, as most of their buggies are designs from the 70s and will use the same low quality screws.
Edited by The_Jackal on Wednesday 23 September 20:20
danp said:
It only did a few laps of the garden and driveway before going to FWD only so I’m not sure if I’m being cheeky or not!
Yes parts are available on eBay (rear axle and drive shaft) for about £20.
I do have Allen keys you know ;-) but the bolts are ridiculously tight!
The RTR cars often need a going over before you run them, just to make sure everything is in place.Yes parts are available on eBay (rear axle and drive shaft) for about £20.
I do have Allen keys you know ;-) but the bolts are ridiculously tight!
But that aside, things will still break. As you said it was cheap to buy, but has quite a high performance level. The scale speeds are quite insane if you work them out. I'm not saying you abused it or did anything to break it, but driving anything off road (real or RC) has risks in things breaking or going wrong.
If you like the buggy, I'd say stick with it and try and fix it yourself. They aren't normally all that difficult. If you want something more robust, you'll need to pay for it. Traxxas have a huge parts supply and well built models, but you will be needing a minimum of £200-300 for one really or more.
For any RC you really need some hex drives like these:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-v2-series-metr...
As for the Tamiya kits. Its a mixed bag tbh. I quite like Tamiya and own a number of their RC's. But many are ancient in design. They were out dated when launched in the 1980s. And by and large Tamiya have done nothing to update them.
Your battery wouldn't really be suitable for a Tamiya. Most Tamiya ESC's are not LiPo compatible officially ( you can run them, but you need to know what you are doing). Tamiya's are also supplied with very low speed, old style sealed brushed motors.
You can upgrade all of this, but will cost you more £££
The best thing with the Tamiya kits is the building experience.
If you want a tough basher from Tamiya, I'd highly recommend the Konghead:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-konghead-6x6-g...
A very good kit. With a Tamiya you'll need radio gear extra though. You might be able to pirate the gear from your WL Toys, but if it uses micro servos and connectors probably not. You'll also need a servo and an ESC. Realistically the Komghead is a £200-220 model to get rolling. But would likely do the job very well and still be great vfm.
If you go down the Tamiya route, you'll need a proper set of screw drivers. You'll end up mashing the heads on the Tamiya screws otherwise. Something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-74023-Builders-8...
The_Jackal said:
1. get a proper hardened hex driver. You will round every screw in time if you just use cheap allen keys. This is not the makers fault. Most serious RCers replace most screws eventually.
2. the screw you describe is a grub screw and they are sold by the millions on ebay. You dont need custom screws for hobby grade RC, that is their advantage over toys.
To be sure just put up a clear photo of the part in place, showing the broken bit.
You really shouldnt buy a new buggy each time a screw breaks. Dont oyu know anyone at work who has had an RC before. It really is a tiny fix. Anyone in the hobby for a few years will have a tray full of replacement screws.
Whereabouts are you?
Oh and Tamiya arent particular better quality, as most of their buggies are designs from the 70s and will use the same low quality screws.
Thanks - yes I'll get a decent hex set if I need to get out grub screws.2. the screw you describe is a grub screw and they are sold by the millions on ebay. You dont need custom screws for hobby grade RC, that is their advantage over toys.
To be sure just put up a clear photo of the part in place, showing the broken bit.
You really shouldnt buy a new buggy each time a screw breaks. Dont oyu know anyone at work who has had an RC before. It really is a tiny fix. Anyone in the hobby for a few years will have a tray full of replacement screws.
Whereabouts are you?
Oh and Tamiya arent particular better quality, as most of their buggies are designs from the 70s and will use the same low quality screws.
Edited by The_Jackal on Wednesday 23 September 20:20
May not be easy to make out but the snapped bit is a hex bolt that connects the gear pictured (which was in the rear diff) onto the end of the prop shaft.
i.e.the bolt went into this, which is held onto the prop with 2 x grub screws.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-power-Metal-Rear-Axle...
No - I don't know anyone round here (near Southampton) that's into these and I didn't have them when I was younger - deprived childhood!
I've rounded off the grub screws in this end of the prop anyhow, and not sure what size the hex bolt was (seemed bigger than 1.5mm but smaller than 2mm (could be my knakd allen set I guess)) so have ordered a new axle which has the prop on the end (well half of it).
This will hopefully get it up and running - tho' the other end of the prop is slightly damaged on the end and may need repair/ replacing so that the two halves slide together smoothly.
300bhp/ton said:
The RTR cars often need a going over before you run them, just to make sure everything is in place.
But that aside, things will still break. As you said it was cheap to buy, but has quite a high performance level. The scale speeds are quite insane if you work them out. I'm not saying you abused it or did anything to break it, but driving anything off road (real or RC) has risks in things breaking or going wrong.
If you like the buggy, I'd say stick with it and try and fix it yourself. They aren't normally all that difficult. If you want something more robust, you'll need to pay for it. Traxxas have a huge parts supply and well built models, but you will be needing a minimum of £200-300 for one really or more.
For any RC you really need some hex drives like these:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-v2-series-metr...
As for the Tamiya kits. Its a mixed bag tbh. I quite like Tamiya and own a number of their RC's. But many are ancient in design. They were out dated when launched in the 1980s. And by and large Tamiya have done nothing to update them.
Your battery wouldn't really be suitable for a Tamiya. Most Tamiya ESC's are not LiPo compatible officially ( you can run them, but you need to know what you are doing). Tamiya's are also supplied with very low speed, old style sealed brushed motors.
You can upgrade all of this, but will cost you more £££
The best thing with the Tamiya kits is the building experience.
If you want a tough basher from Tamiya, I'd highly recommend the Konghead:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-konghead-6x6-g...
A very good kit. With a Tamiya you'll need radio gear extra though. You might be able to pirate the gear from your WL Toys, but if it uses micro servos and connectors probably not. You'll also need a servo and an ESC. Realistically the Komghead is a £200-220 model to get rolling. But would likely do the job very well and still be great vfm.
If you go down the Tamiya route, you'll need a proper set of screw drivers. You'll end up mashing the heads on the Tamiya screws otherwise. Something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-74023-Builders-8...
Thanks - as above I'll see if I can fix it as I think it's not a bad buggy really. I've found a UK supplier of parts for it so should be able to get bits quickly and he seems helpful.But that aside, things will still break. As you said it was cheap to buy, but has quite a high performance level. The scale speeds are quite insane if you work them out. I'm not saying you abused it or did anything to break it, but driving anything off road (real or RC) has risks in things breaking or going wrong.
If you like the buggy, I'd say stick with it and try and fix it yourself. They aren't normally all that difficult. If you want something more robust, you'll need to pay for it. Traxxas have a huge parts supply and well built models, but you will be needing a minimum of £200-300 for one really or more.
For any RC you really need some hex drives like these:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-v2-series-metr...
As for the Tamiya kits. Its a mixed bag tbh. I quite like Tamiya and own a number of their RC's. But many are ancient in design. They were out dated when launched in the 1980s. And by and large Tamiya have done nothing to update them.
Your battery wouldn't really be suitable for a Tamiya. Most Tamiya ESC's are not LiPo compatible officially ( you can run them, but you need to know what you are doing). Tamiya's are also supplied with very low speed, old style sealed brushed motors.
You can upgrade all of this, but will cost you more £££
The best thing with the Tamiya kits is the building experience.
If you want a tough basher from Tamiya, I'd highly recommend the Konghead:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-konghead-6x6-g...
A very good kit. With a Tamiya you'll need radio gear extra though. You might be able to pirate the gear from your WL Toys, but if it uses micro servos and connectors probably not. You'll also need a servo and an ESC. Realistically the Komghead is a £200-220 model to get rolling. But would likely do the job very well and still be great vfm.
If you go down the Tamiya route, you'll need a proper set of screw drivers. You'll end up mashing the heads on the Tamiya screws otherwise. Something like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-74023-Builders-8...
danp said:
No - I don't know anyone round here (near Southampton) that's into these and I didn't have them when I was younger - deprived childhood!
Google 'TORCH Racing'Really good club, well worth a visit.
If you do want to I'd suggest a quick call before going down as spectators are currently banned under the Covid 19 regulations for the sport - but 'visitors' (i.e. they know you're coming and who you are - so Track & Trace works) are fine.
Jim Spencer said:
Google 'TORCH Racing'
Really good club, well worth a visit.
If you do want to I'd suggest a quick call before going down as spectators are currently banned under the Covid 19 regulations for the sport - but 'visitors' (i.e. they know you're coming and who you are - so Track & Trace works) are fine.
Chs, might take my son along (if allowed!).Really good club, well worth a visit.
If you do want to I'd suggest a quick call before going down as spectators are currently banned under the Covid 19 regulations for the sport - but 'visitors' (i.e. they know you're coming and who you are - so Track & Trace works) are fine.
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