Tamiya M-04M MX-5 Rebuild
Discussion
One of my goals for 2020 is to rebuild the Tamiya 1:10 MX-5 (M-04M chassis) that I bought in 2005, when I had the life size version! Unfortunately university/work/real cars took up all my time and I only used it a few times before finding it in the loft a few months back. Ostensibly this rebuild is because my three year old son loves all things toy cars, but in reality it will be overkill for him to play with, but fun for me, both rebuilding and using. If I like it I may end up getting something more rugged for my son (any hints on decent R/C cars for a 4 year old?) and use that as an excuse to get myself a buggy too!
A bit of history of how I ended up with this kit - as a kid in the mid 90's I really wanted a decent 1:10 R/C buggy, or stadium truck - a few of my mates had them, but I could never afford one. So after buying my life size MX-5 I came across the 1:10 version and decided to treat myself to the proper R/C car I had wanted 10 years earlier! I built it up, drove it a few times, crashed it a few times and the steering servo stopped working properly. Fortunately at this point I had the foresight to order a spare body shell, as not only had I done a poor job of painting the original, I had also managed to crash it into a kerb. Real life got in the way, so it sat in the box for five years, until one rainy weekend with nothing to do I gave it a mini rebuild and fixed the servo issue, drove it a few more times then put it back in the box. Until finding it the loft a few months ago and deciding it would be a good new year project! I have read MDifficult's thread on here and his more detailed post in his readers rides thread, which have helped with the motivation!
This is the kit as it stands now, a bit rough around the edges, but complete!
Before rebuild by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Inside it looks like the adhesive pads holding things in place have lost their stick, so it all looks a bit messy:
Before rebuild by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
My rough plan is to work on the electronics/tidy up the inside (as yet I don't know how far I will strip it back), then drive it a bit, fix up the crack in the shell and eventually do the second shell to a higher standard, with decals etc. That should give me one shell that can go on the car when I use it, and another for looking pretty on the shelf.
Not pictured, but I have also got the battery/charger/radio equipment, so I am telling myself that this will be a cheap project...
I have a few questions:
MX-5 at Silverstone by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
A bit of history of how I ended up with this kit - as a kid in the mid 90's I really wanted a decent 1:10 R/C buggy, or stadium truck - a few of my mates had them, but I could never afford one. So after buying my life size MX-5 I came across the 1:10 version and decided to treat myself to the proper R/C car I had wanted 10 years earlier! I built it up, drove it a few times, crashed it a few times and the steering servo stopped working properly. Fortunately at this point I had the foresight to order a spare body shell, as not only had I done a poor job of painting the original, I had also managed to crash it into a kerb. Real life got in the way, so it sat in the box for five years, until one rainy weekend with nothing to do I gave it a mini rebuild and fixed the servo issue, drove it a few more times then put it back in the box. Until finding it the loft a few months ago and deciding it would be a good new year project! I have read MDifficult's thread on here and his more detailed post in his readers rides thread, which have helped with the motivation!
This is the kit as it stands now, a bit rough around the edges, but complete!
Before rebuild by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Inside it looks like the adhesive pads holding things in place have lost their stick, so it all looks a bit messy:
Before rebuild by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
My rough plan is to work on the electronics/tidy up the inside (as yet I don't know how far I will strip it back), then drive it a bit, fix up the crack in the shell and eventually do the second shell to a higher standard, with decals etc. That should give me one shell that can go on the car when I use it, and another for looking pretty on the shelf.
Not pictured, but I have also got the battery/charger/radio equipment, so I am telling myself that this will be a cheap project...
I have a few questions:
- Has there been any changes to the radio systems used in the last 15 years - e.g. am I still OK to use my Acoms Techniplus 27MHz kit?
- Are there any pitfalls with models this old? Bits that are likely to be fragile etc?
- Are there any worthwhile modifications to make to the car while I am rebuilding it? I have found the sheet with the list of hop-ups, but need to remind myself that this will just be a fun car and I will likely buy something more rugged to use regularly.
- Any tips on repairing Tamiya body shells?
- Where is good to learn about this sort of thing?
- Where would be good to source parts? Is there a go to online store? Or is it eBay? Or is it worth finding a local model shop?
MX-5 at Silverstone by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Edited by Craikeybaby on Tuesday 7th January 16:27
My first job was to test the batteries - I wanted to make sure that I am not trying to troubleshoot anything when the batteries are dead. I dug through the box I actually found a second battery that I had forgotten about:
Old batteries by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
For reference, this is the charger I have:
Charger by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
First I plugged the yellow battery in - nothing. Then I tried the blue one, the charging light on the charger lit up, and a few hours later turned green to indicate that the battery was charged. I had another go with the yellow battery, still nothing, but left it connected anyway. A while later the green "ready" light was lit.
Next I got the multimeter out to test the batteries (I'll add here that I work in the electronics industry, but as a software guy, so I have access to labs/kit, but don't necessarily know how to use them), a quick voltage check showed 8.2V on the blue battery and 8.0V on the yellow one - slightly confusing as I was expecting 7.2V... I then spent ages trying to work out why the voltage was reading high, but never really got to a conclusion - any ideas?
I checked the voltage on the batteries again and the yellow one had dropped to 7.0V, when I checked again even later it had dropped again. I think it is pretty safe to say that the yellow battery is dead! As long as the 8.2V checks out on the blue battery I expect that will be sufficient for my initial testing and test drives, but I am not expecting it to last long in the car.
I have also had to make the first purchase of this "cheap" project - 8x rechargeable AA batteries for the transmitter - although having kids means that it is always worth having plenty of AA batteries handy, I don't know where they all go!
Old batteries by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
For reference, this is the charger I have:
Charger by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
First I plugged the yellow battery in - nothing. Then I tried the blue one, the charging light on the charger lit up, and a few hours later turned green to indicate that the battery was charged. I had another go with the yellow battery, still nothing, but left it connected anyway. A while later the green "ready" light was lit.
Next I got the multimeter out to test the batteries (I'll add here that I work in the electronics industry, but as a software guy, so I have access to labs/kit, but don't necessarily know how to use them), a quick voltage check showed 8.2V on the blue battery and 8.0V on the yellow one - slightly confusing as I was expecting 7.2V... I then spent ages trying to work out why the voltage was reading high, but never really got to a conclusion - any ideas?
I checked the voltage on the batteries again and the yellow one had dropped to 7.0V, when I checked again even later it had dropped again. I think it is pretty safe to say that the yellow battery is dead! As long as the 8.2V checks out on the blue battery I expect that will be sufficient for my initial testing and test drives, but I am not expecting it to last long in the car.
I have also had to make the first purchase of this "cheap" project - 8x rechargeable AA batteries for the transmitter - although having kids means that it is always worth having plenty of AA batteries handy, I don't know where they all go!
Throw your batteries and radio system. Yes, everything has changed and improved in the last 15 years.
As a minimum get yourself a 2.4Ghz radio system (from £30 up to whatever you like) and a couple of NiMh batteries (cheapest and best value for money). Also an entry level electronic charger will help too.
At this stage dont be tempted to go brushless and lipo. Brushless will just make your car do donuts all day (no skill and boring after 5 minutes). Lipo is way more expensive and complicated to maintain and worry about.
As for upgrades, there are always lots of hop ups for Tamiya kits. Usually you only need bearings and steering linkage to improve everything. Everything else after that is just bling really, just to show how much money you can pump into a radio control car.
Start with those things and just go have some fun driving it. Before long you will be looking at a bigger, better and more expensive model anyway lol You will be able to transfer over your radio and batteries anyway.
As a minimum get yourself a 2.4Ghz radio system (from £30 up to whatever you like) and a couple of NiMh batteries (cheapest and best value for money). Also an entry level electronic charger will help too.
At this stage dont be tempted to go brushless and lipo. Brushless will just make your car do donuts all day (no skill and boring after 5 minutes). Lipo is way more expensive and complicated to maintain and worry about.
As for upgrades, there are always lots of hop ups for Tamiya kits. Usually you only need bearings and steering linkage to improve everything. Everything else after that is just bling really, just to show how much money you can pump into a radio control car.
Start with those things and just go have some fun driving it. Before long you will be looking at a bigger, better and more expensive model anyway lol You will be able to transfer over your radio and batteries anyway.
Thanks!
Is the new kit much better than the 27MHz kit? Or is it a case of if you are rebuilding, it is best to put latest radio kit in. Are there any particular recommendations? The Acoms Techniplus seemed pretty ubiquitous when I was growing up, so that is what I bought.
I’ll look at getting a couple of NiMh packs, the charger I have says it is suitable for 7.2V NiCad or NiMh, or has the charger game also moved on? Where is good to buy/research this sort of kit?
I will definitely stay away from LiPo/brushless, as I seem to remember the little MX-5 likes doing donuts last time I drove it, much like the big one...
Is the new kit much better than the 27MHz kit? Or is it a case of if you are rebuilding, it is best to put latest radio kit in. Are there any particular recommendations? The Acoms Techniplus seemed pretty ubiquitous when I was growing up, so that is what I bought.
I’ll look at getting a couple of NiMh packs, the charger I have says it is suitable for 7.2V NiCad or NiMh, or has the charger game also moved on? Where is good to buy/research this sort of kit?
I will definitely stay away from LiPo/brushless, as I seem to remember the little MX-5 likes doing donuts last time I drove it, much like the big one...
Edited by Craikeybaby on Friday 17th January 17:29
Had a few minutes spare, so stripped out the radio gear:
Stripped down and radio gear removed by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Then carried on stripping the front bulkhead and uprights, to check if I had bearings fitted - I did! Result!
Bearings! by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
I don't remember buying/fitting the hop up option, so I was surprised to find them - one thing ticked off my shopping list though!
It turns out that there is a good model shop locally, so I will pay them a visit over the next few days, to pick up a few bits, grease/tyre glue/double sided foam tape etc and ask about radio gear/batteries.
Stripped down and radio gear removed by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Then carried on stripping the front bulkhead and uprights, to check if I had bearings fitted - I did! Result!
Bearings! by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
I don't remember buying/fitting the hop up option, so I was surprised to find them - one thing ticked off my shopping list though!
It turns out that there is a good model shop locally, so I will pay them a visit over the next few days, to pick up a few bits, grease/tyre glue/double sided foam tape etc and ask about radio gear/batteries.
Big progress today! I managed to get to the model shop and buy the bits I needed to finish the chassis (grease/tape for the radio kit/tyre glue). My little boy has been constantly asking when it will be finished, so I asked him to help me rebuild the front bulkhead. He did better than I was expecting:
Help from the apprentice by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Then when the boys were in bed, I cracked on, rebuilding the gearbox and testing the radio gear:
Gearbox rebuild by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
My next jobs are to mount the radio gear - which should be simple and tidy up/glue the wheels and tyres. Then it should be ready for a shakedown...
Help from the apprentice by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Then when the boys were in bed, I cracked on, rebuilding the gearbox and testing the radio gear:
Gearbox rebuild by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
My next jobs are to mount the radio gear - which should be simple and tidy up/glue the wheels and tyres. Then it should be ready for a shakedown...
Radio gear in for test drive by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Radio gear in and tested - it moves!
Wires need tidied up next.
Wires tidied up:
Rebuilt chassis by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Rebuilt chassis by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Body fitted:
Rebuilt and ready to go by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Time for a test drive!
Unfortunately no photos, as it was difficult enough with the car/controller and a three year old! But the car went well! Much faster than I remember and it seemed less tail happy too, or maybe it was the rougher surface that was grippier...
Rebuilt chassis by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Rebuilt chassis by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Body fitted:
Rebuilt and ready to go by Lewis Craik, on Flickr
Time for a test drive!
Unfortunately no photos, as it was difficult enough with the car/controller and a three year old! But the car went well! Much faster than I remember and it seemed less tail happy too, or maybe it was the rougher surface that was grippier...
I have been struggling to find a decent stick transmitter with adjustable end points and model memory - it seems they are either cheap basic affairs, or really expensive. There is a middle ground with wheel transmitters, but I am not a fan of those.
I've just realised that the TS paint I used is not the one for the clear bodyshells, which may explain why it is coming off in places. I don't think it is worth buying a new can of the wrong paint to tidy it up. I am also reluctant to do much painting given that I don't have the window masks of overspray film. I think I'll just fix the split, tidy up the arches and apply the decals.
Given that the I know the TS-30 paint I used on the old shell is the wrong type of paint, even thought it was the perfect colour, I now need to work out what the correct PS paint will be to get metallic silver on my new shell PS-12 Silver, PS-36 Translucent silver, PS-41 Bright silver or PS-48 Semi-gloss silver anodized aluminum or some combination thereof. Does anyone have any suggestions?
In other news I found an MR2 Roadster body shell, which of course I had to buy, despite not having a car with a suitable wheelbase (210mm) to use it with. So I guess I will add one of those to my shopping list too.
I've just realised that the TS paint I used is not the one for the clear bodyshells, which may explain why it is coming off in places. I don't think it is worth buying a new can of the wrong paint to tidy it up. I am also reluctant to do much painting given that I don't have the window masks of overspray film. I think I'll just fix the split, tidy up the arches and apply the decals.
Given that the I know the TS-30 paint I used on the old shell is the wrong type of paint, even thought it was the perfect colour, I now need to work out what the correct PS paint will be to get metallic silver on my new shell PS-12 Silver, PS-36 Translucent silver, PS-41 Bright silver or PS-48 Semi-gloss silver anodized aluminum or some combination thereof. Does anyone have any suggestions?
In other news I found an MR2 Roadster body shell, which of course I had to buy, despite not having a car with a suitable wheelbase (210mm) to use it with. So I guess I will add one of those to my shopping list too.
Craikeybaby said:
I have been struggling to find a decent stick transmitter with adjustable end points and model memory - it seems they are either cheap basic affairs, or really expensive. There is a middle ground with wheel transmitters, but I am not a fan of those.
It looks like you're having fun with it, I have pulled all my old ones out recently (Brat/Boomerang/Kyosho RS200) and have enjoyed giving them a light restoration.So much so I recently bought a nitro Kyosho Mad Crusher but I have the same problem as you mention above.
It has a trigger Tx and I could never get on with them.
It looks like Carson do a decent 4ch Tx with model memory, so I think I will buy that next.
In the meantime I have taken a punt on a paint colour - PS-41 "Bright Silver" and a can arrived today, alongside a can of PS-31 "Smoke" for the windows. Now I have just got to find some child free time to get the painting done!
In the meantime I have taken a punt on a paint colour - PS-41 "Bright Silver" and a can arrived today, alongside a can of PS-31 "Smoke" for the windows. Now I have just got to find some child free time to get the painting done!
I still haven't painted the spare shell, however I did reenforce the old one with shoe goo and mesh tape, which mostly sealed up the crack on the front of the body shell. I haven't got round to taking any pictures yet, or indeed test driving it any further than up and down the hallway at home.
I ended up buying the Carson 4 channel radio kit, although the receiver has already gone into a new model I'll buy another at some point and get it in the MX-5. As I have a large box set up in the garden for spraying the new Lunchbox body, I'll also try to get the spare MX-5 body painted over the next few days.
I ended up buying the Carson 4 channel radio kit, although the receiver has already gone into a new model I'll buy another at some point and get it in the MX-5. As I have a large box set up in the garden for spraying the new Lunchbox body, I'll also try to get the spare MX-5 body painted over the next few days.
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