New modeller. What kit do I need?
Discussion
Santa very kindly bought me a few kits this year. An Airfix Spitfire starter kit and an Italeri Manx Norton.
The last time I tried my hand at modelling was in the 60’s when I was a young’un. I mostly got glue on my fingers and smudged paint on Mum’s carpet.
I’m hoping now I have some time on my hands to improve my skills.
What would be the minimum kit I need to get started? I’m thinking knives, brushes etc.
I promise to post up the Spitfire when finished for your collective amusement!
The last time I tried my hand at modelling was in the 60’s when I was a young’un. I mostly got glue on my fingers and smudged paint on Mum’s carpet.
I’m hoping now I have some time on my hands to improve my skills.
What would be the minimum kit I need to get started? I’m thinking knives, brushes etc.
I promise to post up the Spitfire when finished for your collective amusement!
dr_gn said:
Do a Google search for
“plastic modelling tools for beginners”
PH is my go to Google “plastic modelling tools for beginners”
I'd rather get advice from long term modellers, (like yourself), than a load of random manufacturers telling me their stuff is better than all the others.However, I'll take a look at Google just in case.
If all you know is 60s modelling there is only one thing you need to make sure you buy and use..... Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.
Tube glue is dead and buried and will ruin your modelling experience.
Knives, cutters and sanding sticks are all the same, but the glue will single handedly make your modelling more enjoyable.
Also, watch some YouTube videos on construction from Andys Hobby Headquarters, Flory, Plasmo etc You will learn far more watching those than getting drips of random info on forums.
Once you see the Tamiya glue being used you will realise how much neater it will make your models.
Tube glue is dead and buried and will ruin your modelling experience.
Knives, cutters and sanding sticks are all the same, but the glue will single handedly make your modelling more enjoyable.
Also, watch some YouTube videos on construction from Andys Hobby Headquarters, Flory, Plasmo etc You will learn far more watching those than getting drips of random info on forums.
Once you see the Tamiya glue being used you will realise how much neater it will make your models.
http://scale-model-aircraft.com/blog/building-a-pl...
A good start....(as said, dump the xacto knife for a Swan-Norton handle and blades)...also, DO GET the side cutters for removing very small parts from the sprue.
A good start....(as said, dump the xacto knife for a Swan-Norton handle and blades)...also, DO GET the side cutters for removing very small parts from the sprue.
Dont like rolls said:
http://scale-model-aircraft.com/blog/building-a-pl...
A good start....(as said, dump the xacto knife for a Swan-Norton handle and blades)...also, DO GET the side cutters for removing very small parts from the sprue.
It’s “Swann-Morton”.A good start....(as said, dump the xacto knife for a Swan-Norton handle and blades)...also, DO GET the side cutters for removing very small parts from the sprue.
....The big thing that would have changed since I last built anything in the '80s is the paint. I always used oil based Humbrol and got very good results with good quality brushes. Now it's all about air brushes and water based acrylics. I've never used them so would be a bit unsure where to start.
TypeR said:
dr_gn said:
Do a Google search for
“plastic modelling tools for beginners”
PH is my go to Google “plastic modelling tools for beginners”
I'd rather get advice from long term modellers, (like yourself), than a load of random manufacturers telling me their stuff is better than all the others.However, I'll take a look at Google just in case.
Fundamentally, you need good eyesight. My near point is not so near these days , so even though not ideal, I bought these very lightweight magnifiers. By a long way the best I’ve tried (I’ve tried four types):
Then tools/materials - I use these most of the time - for good quality, simple kits, built from the box, you don’t need much (if anything) more:
I use pva canopy glue a lot - in fact for most non-structural parts. It’s pretty strong, and can be removed with water if you mess up.
For finishing - water soluble filler, I’ve got loads of brushes, but use possibly one or two for most jobs. Citadel are fine. I use an airbrush for large areas, but a flat brush is good for hand painting camo. I use Vallejo Model Colour paints in conjunction with a retarder medium. Micro sol is good for setting decals once in position.
.
Painting and weathering is a whole other subject.
This guy is really good:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oGZ4XKwBHVY
That’s about it
Dr_gn's post is spot on 
Worth investing in a pack of flory models sanding sticks, much better than small metal files for cleaning up joints.
+1 on Tamiya extra thin it's top stuff. Although I do like to have a bottle of either revel contacta or humbrol precision poly handy (the ones with a needle applicator) as they are semi viscous and take longer to dry which can be useful for big areas like wing halves.
Side cutters (especially the type which have a blade and anvil) are much less likely to snap or damage parts when removing from the frame. Then clean the feed gate off with a scalpel and sanding stick.
Worth investing in a pack of flory models sanding sticks, much better than small metal files for cleaning up joints.
+1 on Tamiya extra thin it's top stuff. Although I do like to have a bottle of either revel contacta or humbrol precision poly handy (the ones with a needle applicator) as they are semi viscous and take longer to dry which can be useful for big areas like wing halves.
Side cutters (especially the type which have a blade and anvil) are much less likely to snap or damage parts when removing from the frame. Then clean the feed gate off with a scalpel and sanding stick.
It's interesting that the OP hasn't touched a (Airfix) model since the 1960s. Regardless of how much has changed since then, he is a blatant rookie at the job. So while everything the respondents say may be true, they are very experienced model-makers. Would this be like telling a 9-year-old that to play the piano he should buy a Steinway grand?
I guess the gist behind my post is the thought that whilst advice is great and welcome, figuring stuff out your own way and making mistakes is part of the experience. If and when he gets up to scratch-building, ingenuity is important and I think that needs to be cultured.
I guess the gist behind my post is the thought that whilst advice is great and welcome, figuring stuff out your own way and making mistakes is part of the experience. If and when he gets up to scratch-building, ingenuity is important and I think that needs to be cultured.
Simpo Two said:
It's interesting that the OP hasn't touched a (Airfix) model since the 1960s. Regardless of how much has changed since then, he is a blatant rookie at the job. So while everything the respondents say may be true, they are very experienced model-makers. Would this be like telling a 9-year-old that to play the piano he should buy a Steinway grand?
I guess the gist behind my post is the thought that whilst advice is great and welcome, figuring stuff out your own way and making mistakes is part of the experience. If and when he gets up to scratch-building, ingenuity is important and I think that needs to be cultured.
Whatever their experience, they still need something to cut the parts out, clean them up and stick them together. I guess the gist behind my post is the thought that whilst advice is great and welcome, figuring stuff out your own way and making mistakes is part of the experience. If and when he gets up to scratch-building, ingenuity is important and I think that needs to be cultured.
I'm at best an apprentice to some of the experienced masters here, but for what it is worth:
Some people swear by wearing a pair of cheap reading glasses from Boots / Savers / Superdrug / etc for close-up work. Not tried it myself, I use a cheap Chinese copy of the Optivisor, which seems fine for my purposes.
Paint - It depends what subject you are modelling. Modellers mostly use water (and alcohol) based acrylics rather than oil based enamels now, but don't try to brush paint with Tamiya acrylics, they are good for airbrushing (suitably thinned), but Vallejo and other manufacturers make much better brushable acrylics. The majority of fantasy and gaming miniatures are brushed, which has resulted in a huge range of paints now, with some manufacturers producing historically accurate paints for various military applications (WW1, WW2, 50s, 60s, 70s, allies, axis, soviet etc). An airbrush is nice but far from essential. When painting with acrylics, remember to thin your paint, and don't try to do it all in 1 coat of paint.
For priming, I use "Ammo by Mig" primer. Works well either with an airbrush or a hairy stick. Halfords rattle-can acrylic primer seems to work quite well - just make sure it is really really well shaken, and then shaken some more. If the room is cold, consider popping the can into a bowl of hand-hot water. Maybe a bit hotter, but obviously not boiling.
Oh, and don't be surprised if you get terrible results with the standard Humbrol (or whatever) brush. Frustrating things to use. Even relatively cheap brushes from your local The Works / The Range / Hobbycraft will probably give you better results. Don't dip the entire brush head in paint, only 1/3 or so, otherwise you risk getting paint tracking up behind the ferrule and it will eventually set hard and cause the bristles to splay apart.
For mould line removal, the Citadel (Warhammer, Games Workshop) scraper is very useful. For sanding, smoothing and tidying up, get a Flory Models sander starter pack for £9:99. It includes various abrasives, polishers, wide sticks and skinny sticks. A good investment for finding out what sort of sanders you like best.
Glue: Tamiya Extra thin as mentioned: Hold the 2 parts together then apply the glue to the seam with the supplied brush in the lid. Capillary action sucks the glue into place. If you need thicker glue, the Revell Contacta with a thin metal tube is pretty good for accurately application.
Some people swear by wearing a pair of cheap reading glasses from Boots / Savers / Superdrug / etc for close-up work. Not tried it myself, I use a cheap Chinese copy of the Optivisor, which seems fine for my purposes.
Paint - It depends what subject you are modelling. Modellers mostly use water (and alcohol) based acrylics rather than oil based enamels now, but don't try to brush paint with Tamiya acrylics, they are good for airbrushing (suitably thinned), but Vallejo and other manufacturers make much better brushable acrylics. The majority of fantasy and gaming miniatures are brushed, which has resulted in a huge range of paints now, with some manufacturers producing historically accurate paints for various military applications (WW1, WW2, 50s, 60s, 70s, allies, axis, soviet etc). An airbrush is nice but far from essential. When painting with acrylics, remember to thin your paint, and don't try to do it all in 1 coat of paint.
For priming, I use "Ammo by Mig" primer. Works well either with an airbrush or a hairy stick. Halfords rattle-can acrylic primer seems to work quite well - just make sure it is really really well shaken, and then shaken some more. If the room is cold, consider popping the can into a bowl of hand-hot water. Maybe a bit hotter, but obviously not boiling.
Oh, and don't be surprised if you get terrible results with the standard Humbrol (or whatever) brush. Frustrating things to use. Even relatively cheap brushes from your local The Works / The Range / Hobbycraft will probably give you better results. Don't dip the entire brush head in paint, only 1/3 or so, otherwise you risk getting paint tracking up behind the ferrule and it will eventually set hard and cause the bristles to splay apart.
For mould line removal, the Citadel (Warhammer, Games Workshop) scraper is very useful. For sanding, smoothing and tidying up, get a Flory Models sander starter pack for £9:99. It includes various abrasives, polishers, wide sticks and skinny sticks. A good investment for finding out what sort of sanders you like best.
Glue: Tamiya Extra thin as mentioned: Hold the 2 parts together then apply the glue to the seam with the supplied brush in the lid. Capillary action sucks the glue into place. If you need thicker glue, the Revell Contacta with a thin metal tube is pretty good for accurately application.
dr_gn said:
Simpo Two said:
It's interesting that the OP hasn't touched a (Airfix) model since the 1960s. Regardless of how much has changed since then, he is a blatant rookie at the job. So while everything the respondents say may be true, they are very experienced model-makers. Would this be like telling a 9-year-old that to play the piano he should buy a Steinway grand?
I guess the gist behind my post is the thought that whilst advice is great and welcome, figuring stuff out your own way and making mistakes is part of the experience. If and when he gets up to scratch-building, ingenuity is important and I think that needs to be cultured.
Whatever their experience, they still need something to cut the parts out, clean them up and stick them together. I guess the gist behind my post is the thought that whilst advice is great and welcome, figuring stuff out your own way and making mistakes is part of the experience. If and when he gets up to scratch-building, ingenuity is important and I think that needs to be cultured.
Steinway analogy would be saying he needs to go buy £300 worth of airbrush and compressor, an etch brass folding tool, mandrel drills and an extractor spray booth.... not a scalpel and glue :-)
I've been doing some modelling with my 4 year old recently- it was a joy to sit with him and guide him though the process at his pace- but if you haven't got a parent to help you then the Internet is the next best thing I guess ;-)
Dont like rolls said:
http://scale-model-aircraft.com/blog/building-a-pl...
also, DO GET the side cutters for removing very small parts from the sprue.
Make sure they are flush cutters specifically for modelling, not electrical wire cutters. Otherwise the action of the cutting jaws can tend to pull plastic away from the component, leaving a crater or a stressed area. They aren't expensive, I think mine were £7 online. also, DO GET the side cutters for removing very small parts from the sprue.
Just a word on Zad’s comment on reading glasses from Boots. I didn’t get on with them at all. As a rule, the higher the magnification, and the nearer the lenses are to your eyes, the closer you have to hold the part, and the lesser the depth of focus. The main downside with conventional type glasses I found was that as soon as you need to look away from the part to find, say, a scalpel or paintbrush, everything is hopelessly de-focussed, so you have to continuously take the glasses on and off to do stuff. The magnifier I’ve got is quite small, and placed relatively far away from your eyes (and is fully adjustable). You can arrange them so that you’ve got a ‘letterbox’ of detail towards the top-centre of your field of view, and when you need to glance down or sideways to pick something up, it’s your normal vision, so for me it’s all in focus. They are also so light that you forget you’re wearing them. They incorporate a removable LED light pack too. They come with a range of lenses for different magnifications; I’m using 1.5x .
My most used tools are:
Good daylight LED lamp
Optivisor goggles
Swann & Morton scalpels, especially retractable handle version with plenty of fresh blades, you can do more damage with a blunt blade!
Cutting mat and steel rule
0 cut Swiss needle files
Drills and pin vices
Set of broaches
Various grades of wet & dry stuck to MDF blocks for sanding
Xuron sprue cutters
Piercing saw and bench pin
Small bench vice
Various clamping devices
Glue from Deluxe Materials range for CA
Plastic glue mainly use MEK in 1 litre bottles off eBay applied with a fine brush
There are many more acquired over the years, best advice, buy the best quality you can.
Good daylight LED lamp
Optivisor goggles
Swann & Morton scalpels, especially retractable handle version with plenty of fresh blades, you can do more damage with a blunt blade!
Cutting mat and steel rule
0 cut Swiss needle files
Drills and pin vices
Set of broaches
Various grades of wet & dry stuck to MDF blocks for sanding
Xuron sprue cutters
Piercing saw and bench pin
Small bench vice
Various clamping devices
Glue from Deluxe Materials range for CA
Plastic glue mainly use MEK in 1 litre bottles off eBay applied with a fine brush
There are many more acquired over the years, best advice, buy the best quality you can.
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