Spraying paint
Discussion
I’m about to start building a new Tamiya RC truck with hard plastic body which will need spraying.
Historically, spraying and me do not mix!
Very possible tip has been used and taken into account, but no matter what I do, how much prep and time I take, it still ends up patchy and crap.
I’ve tried over and over but it still defeats m every time!
However, I have only ever tried using Tamiya rattle cans. Would my success have a better chance with an airbrush?
I’m also wondering if I’m better off trying a gloss colour rather than metallic?
It’s the only thing that really defeats me, and I’d love to be able to sort it out!
Last time I built a truck was about 12 years ago, I ended up stripping the paint off from my poor attempt and got someone else to do it. I’d rather not have to do that again!
Historically, spraying and me do not mix!
Very possible tip has been used and taken into account, but no matter what I do, how much prep and time I take, it still ends up patchy and crap.
I’ve tried over and over but it still defeats m every time!
However, I have only ever tried using Tamiya rattle cans. Would my success have a better chance with an airbrush?
I’m also wondering if I’m better off trying a gloss colour rather than metallic?
It’s the only thing that really defeats me, and I’d love to be able to sort it out!
Last time I built a truck was about 12 years ago, I ended up stripping the paint off from my poor attempt and got someone else to do it. I’d rather not have to do that again!
A decent airbrush will potentially give better results than a can, but only after you've learnt to use it. There are so many variables (paint type, paint to thinners ratio, air pressure, nozzle and needle size, air to paint ratio) that it's almost certain to end up a lot worse than a can until you've had a fair amount of practice.
I used to paint my resin car kits using mostly rattle cans, just applying the top lacquer coat with an airbrush.
1/32 military stuff I painted with an airbrush using Tamiya paints, and a matt acrylic top coat to even up the finish.
I've done a few slotcar bodies too, using rattle cans and a final dip in Kleer.
I'm now building RC boats, and I paint them with Halfords rattle cans, again with a final coat of satin acrylic lacquer, but from a can.
If the paint goes on OK when you've used a rattle can, but the finish isn't even, you can rub it down and polish, or cover with a clear top coat. Clear sprays a lot better, presumably due to the lack of pigment.
I used to paint my resin car kits using mostly rattle cans, just applying the top lacquer coat with an airbrush.
1/32 military stuff I painted with an airbrush using Tamiya paints, and a matt acrylic top coat to even up the finish.
I've done a few slotcar bodies too, using rattle cans and a final dip in Kleer.
I'm now building RC boats, and I paint them with Halfords rattle cans, again with a final coat of satin acrylic lacquer, but from a can.
If the paint goes on OK when you've used a rattle can, but the finish isn't even, you can rub it down and polish, or cover with a clear top coat. Clear sprays a lot better, presumably due to the lack of pigment.
Edited by clockworks on Wednesday 20th November 18:41
My biggest problem used to be not getting an even coat, especially round detailed areas.
Obviously I did the usual many thin coats rather than getting it on thick, but it made no difference.
I’d end up with areas with hardly any paint coverage, then trying to fix that would make the other bits end up with too much etc
Obviously I did the usual many thin coats rather than getting it on thick, but it made no difference.
I’d end up with areas with hardly any paint coverage, then trying to fix that would make the other bits end up with too much etc
Always done the primer, wet sanded, many light coats, warmed the can, etc etc, I’ve done every tip you can possibly think of!
It does sound like airbrushing would introduce more problems than solutions!
Thinking about it, I’ve always got great results on the primer stage, so clearly the issue is the colour. Maybe I’ve been getting impatient with the thin layers?
How many layers would you expect to spray for full and even coverage?
It does sound like airbrushing would introduce more problems than solutions!
Thinking about it, I’ve always got great results on the primer stage, so clearly the issue is the colour. Maybe I’ve been getting impatient with the thin layers?
How many layers would you expect to spray for full and even coverage?
Exclusively rattle cans in my inventory, Halfords, Tamiya, Airfix...randoms from the DIY shop... I'm familiar with the problem you describe, though especially with the light colours in the Halfords range; the pigment just isn't strong in yellows, oranges, light blues and flows away from proud detail. Darker colours usually fine. Tamiya generally much better for colour coverage.
Warm the can
Shake really well. Until it hurts.
Spray a light coat to see what's happening....over white primer for light colours, grey primer for darker...sorry if obvious!
Try playing with misting a sticky coat on...hold the subject further away than normal, as if you were going for a textured finish, but waft another coat on before the first dries to build pigment....the particles of the 'dusted' coat stick where they land as opposed to a flowing coat of paint that pools as a liquid which thins away from high spots. It's a real trick to get the timing between coats right as success depends on ambient temperature, distance from subject etc....but passes can be seconds apart. Be patient and let the particles build colour, forget the finish for now.
Let dry a day and revert to flowing coats over the top to blend away any texture from first passes.
Clear vac formed rc shells benefit from being painted on the inside of course....reverse sequence and don't reach for the primer first!!!!
Warm the can
Shake really well. Until it hurts.
Spray a light coat to see what's happening....over white primer for light colours, grey primer for darker...sorry if obvious!
Try playing with misting a sticky coat on...hold the subject further away than normal, as if you were going for a textured finish, but waft another coat on before the first dries to build pigment....the particles of the 'dusted' coat stick where they land as opposed to a flowing coat of paint that pools as a liquid which thins away from high spots. It's a real trick to get the timing between coats right as success depends on ambient temperature, distance from subject etc....but passes can be seconds apart. Be patient and let the particles build colour, forget the finish for now.
Let dry a day and revert to flowing coats over the top to blend away any texture from first passes.
Clear vac formed rc shells benefit from being painted on the inside of course....reverse sequence and don't reach for the primer first!!!!
The last colour I tried was a Tamiya dark metallic blue, but from memory it would have probably been standard grey primer! (I don’t remember tbh, it was 12 years ago now)
Polycarbonate bodies have always been my best friend, I’ve never had any issues with those!
I was thinking of chickening out and going for one of the factory finished limit edition trucks, but I know I’ll want to add mods and colour code other bits in the future, so might as well go for it from day one.
I’ve heard it’s hard to get a good match on some of the factory paint jobs.
I’ve decided gloss white is the colour I’ll use, which should be a lot easier to work with than a dark metallic.
Polycarbonate bodies have always been my best friend, I’ve never had any issues with those!
I was thinking of chickening out and going for one of the factory finished limit edition trucks, but I know I’ll want to add mods and colour code other bits in the future, so might as well go for it from day one.
I’ve heard it’s hard to get a good match on some of the factory paint jobs.
I’ve decided gloss white is the colour I’ll use, which should be a lot easier to work with than a dark metallic.
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