Charging a NiMH battery

Charging a NiMH battery

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spangle82

Original Poster:

322 posts

246 months

Saturday 6th April 2019
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So today I went to a model shop to get some bits for my MTB - deck fittings and also a replacement battery and speed controller to run the old Mabuchi 540.

The owner/expert Id discussed it with yesterday was out but he'd left a suitable speed controller out for me, a Tio Marine 15.

They only had NiMH batteries so I chose an Overlander Tornado 7.2V 5000mAh pack.

Of course when getting it home I thought - ah, charger... My old charger says 'Nicad charger. To charge 1200mA Nicad packs, output 6-7.2 volts 1VA'. Will it charge the new battery?

Thanks all!

clockworks

6,111 posts

152 months

Sunday 7th April 2019
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I think the only difference between NiCad and NiMH from a charging perspective is how they are rapid-charged as they approach being full. The peak voltage is slightly different, so the charger needs to slow the charge and stop charging in a different way.

Since you are using a trickle charger, I don't think it will matter. Might take a while though, as from what you've written it will only charge at 140mA. About a day and a half from flat for a 5000mAH pack.

To get the best from the battery, it's worth investing in a better charger at some point. Something like the IMax B6 AC - about £20 from Hobbyking. It will charge just about any type of RC battery.

spangle82

Original Poster:

322 posts

246 months

Sunday 7th April 2019
quotequote all
Thanks clockworks, I agree its worth investing in a new charger, not least because theres no indication of when its charged, I think it will just keep going.

Is this the one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iMAX-B6-AC-Lipo-NiMH-Po...

(bottom option with UK plug for £21.59)

clockworks

6,111 posts

152 months

Monday 8th April 2019
quotequote all
That one will do the job, but they also make a version that doesn't need the AC adaptor - mains lead plugs straight into the charger:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMAX-B6AC-LCD-Digital-R...

spangle82

Original Poster:

322 posts

246 months

Monday 8th April 2019
quotequote all
Much more sensible - thankyou!

Now I have to do something with the prop shaft as I did a full speed test run for about 15 secs each way; a burning smell appeared and now the shaft is stiff (oops missus) - the top bush seems to have melted frown The tube is epoxied through the keel so I hope I can change just the middle bit...

clockworks

6,111 posts

152 months

Monday 8th April 2019
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Propshaft with plastic bushes?

spangle82

Original Poster:

322 posts

246 months

Monday 8th April 2019
quotequote all
Yep.

I thought afterwards maybe they were only supposed to run in water for cooling...

clockworks

6,111 posts

152 months

Monday 8th April 2019
quotequote all
I'm new to RC boats (done a lot with cars and planes in the past though), so I've got a lot to learn. I've bought 3 boats so far that other club members have built, and it looks to me that all the propshafts have brass bushes and thrust washers at both ends.

Still, melting a plastic bush with a 540 motor after 30 seconds seems odd. Most Tamiya RC cars come as standard with plastic bearings in the gearboxes and drive shafts, and they don't melt on stock motors.

spangle82

Original Poster:

322 posts

246 months

Monday 8th April 2019
quotequote all
Luckily they still make 7" propshafts - I found this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-MODEL-BOAT-PROP-SHAFT...

Wonder if I should go for the oiler option?

clockworks

6,111 posts

152 months

Monday 8th April 2019
quotequote all
I was wondering about oilers the other day. None of the 3 boats that I've bought have oilers fitted.