Returning to RC Cars with a Brushless Lipo MT
Discussion
After a very long time I’m returning to the world of RC cars, my wife decided to get me a 1/10 FTX Carnage Brushless Monster truck, few pictures below.
I’ve been out of this game for a while and I was impressed just how good a brushless and lipo combination is.
Back in the days I used to have a Nitro HPI Savage and in those days the electric RC models were nowhere near as quick. I also had a 1:16 Traxxas revo and a few Ansmann models, but again the nitro HPI Savage was a beast.
I took it out for its first spin today and the bug has firmly bitten again, it’s now time to start improving it. I genuinely think that this is probably quicker that the HPI savage was, and far far easier to maintain, no messing around with glow plugs and pull starters. Press the on button and good to go. Granted I miss the sound of the big boy exhaust on the Savage.
Its currently stock, the motor is a brushless Photon 2950kv motor with a Etronix Photon ESC and a 2500mah lipo.
What I have already noticed is that the rear shock ball ends are knackered; the rear shock shaft piston is supposed to screw into the shack balls but doesn’t seem to and keep popping out, so they need to be replaced. I can be bothered to send it back to Model Sport so will just order some replacements instead, any advice on these?
I also need to get a decent charger as I think the charger that comes with it is a trickle charger for the lipo batteries, any advice on what charger to get?
Anyone have a FTX Carnage that can offer some pointers? Any decent tips?
I need to buy some fuel pipe, I used to have tie ropes through silicone fuel pipes connected to the body clips to make it easier to remove the body, where is the best place to get a small amount of fuel pipe from?
I’ve been out of this game for a while and I was impressed just how good a brushless and lipo combination is.
Back in the days I used to have a Nitro HPI Savage and in those days the electric RC models were nowhere near as quick. I also had a 1:16 Traxxas revo and a few Ansmann models, but again the nitro HPI Savage was a beast.
I took it out for its first spin today and the bug has firmly bitten again, it’s now time to start improving it. I genuinely think that this is probably quicker that the HPI savage was, and far far easier to maintain, no messing around with glow plugs and pull starters. Press the on button and good to go. Granted I miss the sound of the big boy exhaust on the Savage.
Its currently stock, the motor is a brushless Photon 2950kv motor with a Etronix Photon ESC and a 2500mah lipo.
What I have already noticed is that the rear shock ball ends are knackered; the rear shock shaft piston is supposed to screw into the shack balls but doesn’t seem to and keep popping out, so they need to be replaced. I can be bothered to send it back to Model Sport so will just order some replacements instead, any advice on these?
I also need to get a decent charger as I think the charger that comes with it is a trickle charger for the lipo batteries, any advice on what charger to get?
Anyone have a FTX Carnage that can offer some pointers? Any decent tips?
I need to buy some fuel pipe, I used to have tie ropes through silicone fuel pipes connected to the body clips to make it easier to remove the body, where is the best place to get a small amount of fuel pipe from?
For the body clips I'd suggest these or similar, just order the right length ones
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Body-shell-...
f:0
Charger something like below. Don't be tempted with a cheap one from China. By a good one and always balance charge the lipos.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sky-RC-S60-AC-60W-LiPo-...f:0
I'd also suggest a lipo with some more power so go up to around 5000-6000mah will be fine and last longer. Get hardcase ones that way if you do roll or smash the buggy the battery will be protected to some extent.
The shocks just sound like they need screwing in properly, they shouldn't just pop out. It can be a faff to get the thread into the ball end but just apply a little force and they will make their own thread.
As for tips, I'd say youtube is your friend and there will be plenty of people who have modded them and have tips for improvements.
My advice, don't buy shiny ali parts for any of the steering or suspension. Might look good but will bend and break other parts when crashed as apposed to plastic that will just break one component.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Body-shell-...
f:0Charger something like below. Don't be tempted with a cheap one from China. By a good one and always balance charge the lipos.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sky-RC-S60-AC-60W-LiPo-...
f:0I'd also suggest a lipo with some more power so go up to around 5000-6000mah will be fine and last longer. Get hardcase ones that way if you do roll or smash the buggy the battery will be protected to some extent.
The shocks just sound like they need screwing in properly, they shouldn't just pop out. It can be a faff to get the thread into the ball end but just apply a little force and they will make their own thread.
As for tips, I'd say youtube is your friend and there will be plenty of people who have modded them and have tips for improvements.
My advice, don't buy shiny ali parts for any of the steering or suspension. Might look good but will bend and break other parts when crashed as apposed to plastic that will just break one component.
sausage76 said:
For the body clips I'd suggest these or similar, just order the right length ones
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Body-shell-...f:0
Charger something like below. Don't be tempted with a cheap one from China. By a good one and always balance charge the lipos.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sky-RC-S60-AC-60W-LiPo-...f:0
I'd also suggest a lipo with some more power so go up to around 5000-6000mah will be fine and last longer. Get hardcase ones that way if you do roll or smash the buggy the battery will be protected to some extent.
The shocks just sound like they need screwing in properly, they shouldn't just pop out. It can be a faff to get the thread into the ball end but just apply a little force and they will make their own thread.
As for tips, I'd say youtube is your friend and there will be plenty of people who have modded them and have tips for improvements.
My advice, don't buy shiny ali parts for any of the steering or suspension. Might look good but will bend and break other parts when crashed as apposed to plastic that will just break one component.
Ordered the clips, thanks for that. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Car-1-10-Body-shell-...
f:0Charger something like below. Don't be tempted with a cheap one from China. By a good one and always balance charge the lipos.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sky-RC-S60-AC-60W-LiPo-...
f:0I'd also suggest a lipo with some more power so go up to around 5000-6000mah will be fine and last longer. Get hardcase ones that way if you do roll or smash the buggy the battery will be protected to some extent.
The shocks just sound like they need screwing in properly, they shouldn't just pop out. It can be a faff to get the thread into the ball end but just apply a little force and they will make their own thread.
As for tips, I'd say youtube is your friend and there will be plenty of people who have modded them and have tips for improvements.
My advice, don't buy shiny ali parts for any of the steering or suspension. Might look good but will bend and break other parts when crashed as apposed to plastic that will just break one component.
With regards to the charger, can't seem to find any reviews on it, is it any good?
Happy to buy another more powerful battery if it increases run time, any advice on which ones to buy? Lipo batteries are a minefield, who makes good reliable ones?
A good balance charger is a must. There are loads and you can spend silly money on them. But there is no real need.
They are all made in China pretty much, even if marketed by non Chinese companies. So some of the cheap Chinese ones are sometimes 100% the same as the expensive ones. Just do some research first. And even if they aren’t, if they are safe and do what you need, who cares where it’s from or how little it cost.
With regards to the Carnage, it’s more 4wd stadium truck over a monster truck. They go pretty well, but are built to a price. If you beat on it badly it will break. Personally never had many issues with mine, even in stock trim.
There are lots of hop ups available. Some good, some maybe not so. But you can spend a bit on them. Or stick to stock parts and save for a more pricey model. Although even then, there is no guarantee they won’t break.
I’d also recommend some new Lipos. The bigger the capacity the more amps it will flow as a norm. The higher the C rating is also going to offer more performance. Just make sure the battery will fit the tray.
Hobbyking is a good place for batteries.
This is my Carnage after a few hop ups
They are all made in China pretty much, even if marketed by non Chinese companies. So some of the cheap Chinese ones are sometimes 100% the same as the expensive ones. Just do some research first. And even if they aren’t, if they are safe and do what you need, who cares where it’s from or how little it cost.
With regards to the Carnage, it’s more 4wd stadium truck over a monster truck. They go pretty well, but are built to a price. If you beat on it badly it will break. Personally never had many issues with mine, even in stock trim.
There are lots of hop ups available. Some good, some maybe not so. But you can spend a bit on them. Or stick to stock parts and save for a more pricey model. Although even then, there is no guarantee they won’t break.
I’d also recommend some new Lipos. The bigger the capacity the more amps it will flow as a norm. The higher the C rating is also going to offer more performance. Just make sure the battery will fit the tray.
Hobbyking is a good place for batteries.
This is my Carnage after a few hop ups
Your Carnage looks pretty awesome, i need to buy one of those small cross wrenches, the one i had for my HPI Savage does not fit the Carnage.
Im thinking of buying this charger:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc-s60-ac-...
and then sticking with 2s Lipo for now and buying this battery pack:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/peak-power-plant-lipo...
My thinking is I'm going to keep mine relatively simple, replace most of the fragile bits as and when they break.
What is the green board called, i need one of those in my shed....
Im thinking of buying this charger:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc-s60-ac-...
and then sticking with 2s Lipo for now and buying this battery pack:
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/peak-power-plant-lipo...
My thinking is I'm going to keep mine relatively simple, replace most of the fragile bits as and when they break.
What is the green board called, i need one of those in my shed....
Both look fine. Although I’ve used neither.
One thing to watch is which connectors to use. Deans are ok, if a little fiddly to pull apart sometimes. I prefer the XT60 myself. But you may want to buy or make up some short adapter leads so you can buy batteries from elsewhere without needing to change them over.
Have a look here:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/batteries-chargers/bat...
Loads of choice and their site can be a bit pants. But often very good prices for good items. Their Black Friday and new year offers are great too. Although wrong time of year now.
Stick with 2S in the Carnage. Some people run 3S but the gearboxes and bits aren’t really up to it and you’ll end up repairing it a lot most likely.
One thing to watch is which connectors to use. Deans are ok, if a little fiddly to pull apart sometimes. I prefer the XT60 myself. But you may want to buy or make up some short adapter leads so you can buy batteries from elsewhere without needing to change them over.
Have a look here:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/batteries-chargers/bat...
Loads of choice and their site can be a bit pants. But often very good prices for good items. Their Black Friday and new year offers are great too. Although wrong time of year now.
Stick with 2S in the Carnage. Some people run 3S but the gearboxes and bits aren’t really up to it and you’ll end up repairing it a lot most likely.
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