Discussion
Most mainstream plastic kits are made from Polystyrene. The "glue" that binds the pieces together is actually a solvent which dissolves the plastic at the point of contact and welds the pieces together.
In the "old days" the only form of "glue" (technically referred to as "polystyrene cement") came in tubes and was thick and stringy and difficult to control.
Liquid forms are best. As mentioned above, Tamiya, MEK, Slaters and a whole host of other companies produce poly cement in liquid forms. One handy way of applying the cement is using an applicator form , as in Revell's "Contacta" -
In the "old days" the only form of "glue" (technically referred to as "polystyrene cement") came in tubes and was thick and stringy and difficult to control.
Liquid forms are best. As mentioned above, Tamiya, MEK, Slaters and a whole host of other companies produce poly cement in liquid forms. One handy way of applying the cement is using an applicator form , as in Revell's "Contacta" -
Eric Mc said:
Most mainstream plastic kits are made from Polystyrene. The "glue" that binds the pieces together is actually a solvent which dissolves the plastic at the point of contact and welds the pieces together.
Interesting. I always wondered why, if I got some polystyrene cement and tried to glue a piece of what I then thought of as polystyrene but now would think of as expanded polystyrene, it always just melted a big hole in it.Eric Mc said:
In the "old days" the only form of "glue" (technically referred to as "polystyrene cement") came in tubes and was thick and stringy and difficult to control.
But it smelled great. What was different about it? Airfix own brand glue had an orangey smell, and Humbrol LiquidPoly 70 had a lovely unique smell all its own.Depends on the kit, and how you build it. I routinely use five types of glue on a single model:
If it's a really well engineered kit with precise mating surfaces and quality plastic, Tamiya Extra Thin is great, but can melt straight through thin sections. It's also not much good for joining two pre-painted parts, since even if you clean up the contacting surfaces, it on can easily damage the surrounding paint. Nor would I risk it on clear parts.
Revell Contacta is thicker (less solvent) and isn't as aggressive, it can also be applied precisely with a pin or cocktail stick. I find the thicker, tube version is fine, just needs to be applied with a stick before it skins over.
I increasingly use Formula 560 Canopy PVA, not only for canopies, but other small detail parts that aren't structural. It has many advantages - dries fast, dries clear, is pretty strong once cured, but can also be dissolved with water if you need to remove it. It can also be easily diluted with water and wicked between parts with a paint brush for a perfect joint. It can be used - to a degree - as a gap filler, and can even be used a coloured filler if mixed with acrylic paint. I've done that recently on an Eduard Lysander canopy which had a few gaps in it.
Araldite epoxy is very good where a strong joint needs to be made between structural parts. Due to it's relatively long curing time, it's particularly useful if you need to adjust alignment before it sets. Excellent for securing parts that have gaps between them too. It's good for securing photo-etch to photo-etch, and can be applied surprisingly accurately with a cocktail stick.
Not so relevant for the O/P's model, but Medium/Low viscosity cyano (super glue) is OK for photo-etch to photo-etch, but can be very frustrating to use. It always seems to grab when you don't want it to, and vise versa.
If it's a really well engineered kit with precise mating surfaces and quality plastic, Tamiya Extra Thin is great, but can melt straight through thin sections. It's also not much good for joining two pre-painted parts, since even if you clean up the contacting surfaces, it on can easily damage the surrounding paint. Nor would I risk it on clear parts.
Revell Contacta is thicker (less solvent) and isn't as aggressive, it can also be applied precisely with a pin or cocktail stick. I find the thicker, tube version is fine, just needs to be applied with a stick before it skins over.
I increasingly use Formula 560 Canopy PVA, not only for canopies, but other small detail parts that aren't structural. It has many advantages - dries fast, dries clear, is pretty strong once cured, but can also be dissolved with water if you need to remove it. It can also be easily diluted with water and wicked between parts with a paint brush for a perfect joint. It can be used - to a degree - as a gap filler, and can even be used a coloured filler if mixed with acrylic paint. I've done that recently on an Eduard Lysander canopy which had a few gaps in it.
Araldite epoxy is very good where a strong joint needs to be made between structural parts. Due to it's relatively long curing time, it's particularly useful if you need to adjust alignment before it sets. Excellent for securing parts that have gaps between them too. It's good for securing photo-etch to photo-etch, and can be applied surprisingly accurately with a cocktail stick.
Not so relevant for the O/P's model, but Medium/Low viscosity cyano (super glue) is OK for photo-etch to photo-etch, but can be very frustrating to use. It always seems to grab when you don't want it to, and vise versa.
Yertis said:
Eric Mc said:
In the "old days" the only form of "glue" (technically referred to as "polystyrene cement") came in tubes and was thick and stringy and difficult to control.
But it smelled great. What was different about it? Airfix own brand glue had an orangey smell, and Humbrol LiquidPoly 70 had a lovely unique smell all its own.Thanks for all the input ...it is a grade 4 kit and must be over 50 years since I made a plastic kit looks a bit daunting but have plenty off time in my hands .They say it needs 8 types of paint think I will give that side a miss ending up more that my son possibly paid for the kit .
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