Barn find :) Recommissioning an original Tamiya Clod Buster
Discussion
Hi all,
Quick disclaimer! This is not my area of expertise - my son is asking me questions I can't answer, so I thought I'd ask on here!
My son has been gifted a late 80s twin-engined Clod Buster RC car - apparently it was used a couple of times and then put away in a loft until now.
The car itself is in perfect condition and structurally complete but doesn't have batteries, the receiver and the remote controller itself (clearly I don't know the correct lingo!).
What I'd really appreciate are some suggestions on what specific bits I should but to get to get the car running.
I'm keen to avoid the trap of buying cheaply/stupidly and then being forced by poor performance to buy twice - I read something about modern LiPo batteries being the way to go for instance but wouldn't know how to make them compatible with the Clod Buster.
I'll upload some photos this evening - anything specific that would be useful?
Many thanks in advance
Ian
Quick disclaimer! This is not my area of expertise - my son is asking me questions I can't answer, so I thought I'd ask on here!
My son has been gifted a late 80s twin-engined Clod Buster RC car - apparently it was used a couple of times and then put away in a loft until now.
The car itself is in perfect condition and structurally complete but doesn't have batteries, the receiver and the remote controller itself (clearly I don't know the correct lingo!).
What I'd really appreciate are some suggestions on what specific bits I should but to get to get the car running.
I'm keen to avoid the trap of buying cheaply/stupidly and then being forced by poor performance to buy twice - I read something about modern LiPo batteries being the way to go for instance but wouldn't know how to make them compatible with the Clod Buster.
I'll upload some photos this evening - anything specific that would be useful?
Many thanks in advance
Ian
Batteries - NiMH rather than LIPO for a beginner. The bigger the mAHr the longer the runtime.
Its worth investing in a decent charger that can do both IMHO as that will do both for future-proofing.
ESC - electronic speed control - something like this https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-086... will cope with dual stock motors, others will do it but will require basic soldering skills.
Transmitter/Receiver - anything 2.4G will do, wheel or stick is personal preference. 2 channels should be fine for a clod.
Is there a servo for the steering?
Tamiya spares are widely available, and the Clod was popular, so getting any replacement parts should be easy. If you don't have the original instructions they are online
Original Clod https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58065ml.pdf
Worthwhile upgrades - get bearings if not already fitted, dito for oil shocks.
Oh - have fun
Its worth investing in a decent charger that can do both IMHO as that will do both for future-proofing.
ESC - electronic speed control - something like this https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-086... will cope with dual stock motors, others will do it but will require basic soldering skills.
Transmitter/Receiver - anything 2.4G will do, wheel or stick is personal preference. 2 channels should be fine for a clod.
Is there a servo for the steering?
Tamiya spares are widely available, and the Clod was popular, so getting any replacement parts should be easy. If you don't have the original instructions they are online
Original Clod https://www.tamiyausa.com/pdf/manuals/58065ml.pdf
Worthwhile upgrades - get bearings if not already fitted, dito for oil shocks.
Oh - have fun
If this is the original 1:10th scale kit version and not the cheaper built Qd version you might want to actually consider selling it.
A good condition clod buster rolling chassis is quite valuable even without any electrics.
I mention selling not from a money point of view but more along the lines of usability. Parts are quite expensive but still available . Where as a more modern rc car which you could buy from selling the clod . Might be an option to consider maybe.
Check out eBay for prices as an example.
Ps would love to see pics of it .
Col.
A good condition clod buster rolling chassis is quite valuable even without any electrics.
I mention selling not from a money point of view but more along the lines of usability. Parts are quite expensive but still available . Where as a more modern rc car which you could buy from selling the clod . Might be an option to consider maybe.
Check out eBay for prices as an example.
Ps would love to see pics of it .
Col.
With Lipo you have to treat them like they could potentially catch fire (watch some Youtube vids of Lipo fires to see why)
Never run them to empty, always balance them, never overload them (puff them), charge them in a fireproof container/safe area etc
Saying that lots of people use them, but you do have a to be more aware of how you use them as opposed to simple NiMh.
For just bashing though a 5000mAh NiMh is cheap and will last ages compared to when we were kids in the 80s with Nicads and mechanical speed controllers.
Never run them to empty, always balance them, never overload them (puff them), charge them in a fireproof container/safe area etc
Saying that lots of people use them, but you do have a to be more aware of how you use them as opposed to simple NiMh.
For just bashing though a 5000mAh NiMh is cheap and will last ages compared to when we were kids in the 80s with Nicads and mechanical speed controllers.
I've got one of these, but haven't used it in about 15 years. I built a space frame chassis and all thats standard on it now are the axles. Google clodzilla to see what can be done with these. They are great fun to mod and tinker with.
Whilst they were great in the 80's it will be a massive disappointment if/when you do get it running... they're pretty underwhelming in stock form. They break so easily too and then it gets costly. The hubs shatter and they are hard to find replacements for.
If this is a genuine 80s version it is best kept in as best order as possible as they are worth a fair bit now. Especially if you have the original chevy hard plastic body.
If you really do want to get it running get an electronic speed controller which can handle dual motors (as already mentioned) Stick with 7.2v nimh batteries and a regular 2 channel radio kit and you should be able to get it going.
For the money you'd spend on bits getting it running you could pretty much get something else ready to run that will be a lot more fun.
Whilst they were great in the 80's it will be a massive disappointment if/when you do get it running... they're pretty underwhelming in stock form. They break so easily too and then it gets costly. The hubs shatter and they are hard to find replacements for.
If this is a genuine 80s version it is best kept in as best order as possible as they are worth a fair bit now. Especially if you have the original chevy hard plastic body.
If you really do want to get it running get an electronic speed controller which can handle dual motors (as already mentioned) Stick with 7.2v nimh batteries and a regular 2 channel radio kit and you should be able to get it going.
For the money you'd spend on bits getting it running you could pretty much get something else ready to run that will be a lot more fun.
Thanks chaps - really useful information, and some food for thought.
My son took some photos with his phone - not great quality but better than nothing.
The body is unpainted and the decals are all still on their backing paper. We've got the original instructions but no box.
[pic] http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/maturin23/C... [/pic]
[pic] http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/maturin23/C... [/pic]
[pic http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/maturin23/C... [/pic]
My son took some photos with his phone - not great quality but better than nothing.
The body is unpainted and the decals are all still on their backing paper. We've got the original instructions but no box.
[pic] http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/maturin23/C... [/pic]
[pic] http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/maturin23/C... [/pic]
[pic http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d148/maturin23/C... [/pic]
That's a collectors dream .
If you want to run it first , don't paint it or put stickers on. That body can be filled and sanded to make new and would come out immaculate with very little work from the battle scars of 5 mins fun.
They are far more appealing to a collector as is and is easily worth £100 to the right person as is.
I used to collect old Tamiyas and ploughed a fortune into them. At one point I had over 30 cars and a few shelf queens in today's money would command up to £450 each for the egress, avante, bigwig and bruiser s they were all never used.
Tamika re released many of the old sought after buggies . So values took a tumble slightly.
I remember people genuinely paying up to £70 for a decal set for a top force evolution lol. I was happy as I had 3 sets and a couple of body sets unpainted .
If you want something fun to play with I would definitely buy something else . I have old Associted T4 trucks which are very robust and cheap money snd have tons of spares available and you can make them silly fast . I have one that runs an old Novak brushless 3.5r motor that pops wheelies at 30 mph if the grip is there and will embarrass many nitro cars .
Keep us posted with what you do with it.
I'm Manchester based if your local and want some advice.
Col.
If you want to run it first , don't paint it or put stickers on. That body can be filled and sanded to make new and would come out immaculate with very little work from the battle scars of 5 mins fun.
They are far more appealing to a collector as is and is easily worth £100 to the right person as is.
I used to collect old Tamiyas and ploughed a fortune into them. At one point I had over 30 cars and a few shelf queens in today's money would command up to £450 each for the egress, avante, bigwig and bruiser s they were all never used.
Tamika re released many of the old sought after buggies . So values took a tumble slightly.
I remember people genuinely paying up to £70 for a decal set for a top force evolution lol. I was happy as I had 3 sets and a couple of body sets unpainted .
If you want something fun to play with I would definitely buy something else . I have old Associted T4 trucks which are very robust and cheap money snd have tons of spares available and you can make them silly fast . I have one that runs an old Novak brushless 3.5r motor that pops wheelies at 30 mph if the grip is there and will embarrass many nitro cars .
Keep us posted with what you do with it.
I'm Manchester based if your local and want some advice.
Col.
Its almost too good to use, I would keep it as a shelf queen or sell it & use the cash too fund something else.
If you want a clod that is more fun you really need to change the chassis.
I did a clodzilla conversion on mine but all that you end up left from the original kit is the wheels and axles.
If you want a clod that is more fun you really need to change the chassis.
I did a clodzilla conversion on mine but all that you end up left from the original kit is the wheels and axles.
Hello
Loving the Clod Buster posts here and seeing that this old retro RC model is very much still alive.
I’m thinking of selling mine on eBay reluctantly and wondered if anyone would help me to set a starting price for it.
Photo attached.
In full working order and brand new battery pack.
Thanks
Fishy![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/UPIzw4kR.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/f4yuRAOo" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/f4yuRAOo.jpg)
Loving the Clod Buster posts here and seeing that this old retro RC model is very much still alive.
I’m thinking of selling mine on eBay reluctantly and wondered if anyone would help me to set a starting price for it.
Photo attached.
In full working order and brand new battery pack.
Thanks
Fishy
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