2.4 petrol v70... any reason why not?
Discussion
like this one:
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2010...
as a work basher, this looks ideal. Or does it have 'money pit' written across it?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2010...
as a work basher, this looks ideal. Or does it have 'money pit' written across it?
surrey7er said:
Good point!! Are they reliable 'in theory'?
immensely reliable. Mine is, as has the older model ones I've had through the years. Volvo cars I've had have served the family from a 240 estate, which was inverted by Mrs. Tunku in a crash where everyone walked out of with no injury, to three 740 variants, to my present V70. I have never had an unexpected bill or failure in 20 odd years of Volvo ownership. There can be issues with the V70 but if looked after they are generally reliable (mine is) One problem area is the ETM (Electronic Throttle Motor) which the car in the advert has due to its model year, I had to have the ETM fixed on mine last year and it cost around £350, you might find its already been changed but due to the design it will fail again at some future point.
As its got the Asin-Warner 5 speed auto box make sure you only ever use the correct autobox oil as its not regular ATF in it you need JSW3309 Volvo ATF.
Only other fail I have had with my MY2000 V70 was the thermostat jamming open, cost to repair was under £15
As for mileage I wouldn't worry, with regular oil changes they are fine, certainly quadruple what the car in the advert currently has on it! - Mike
As its got the Asin-Warner 5 speed auto box make sure you only ever use the correct autobox oil as its not regular ATF in it you need JSW3309 Volvo ATF.
Only other fail I have had with my MY2000 V70 was the thermostat jamming open, cost to repair was under £15
As for mileage I wouldn't worry, with regular oil changes they are fine, certainly quadruple what the car in the advert currently has on it! - Mike
I have just bought a phase 2, w plate 2000 V70 t5 auto se, fully loaded silver paint with black leather, sunroof, climate and a great stereo, thought because of the spec it's not ex police?!
Car is in mint condition but as a precaution had the cam belt changed, car has done 136k miles so is a bit leggy but the car only cost £1500! This makes the 2.4 IMO look expensive, granted it is much lower miles than mine!
I am however having an issue with the gearbox which has only just started and so I am hoping a flush and refill with genuine Volvo fluid will cure.
Someone may be able to give me an answer into what going wrong with, essentially for the first few miles of any journey it is fine, smooth changes and quiet, after about 10-15 minutes the box seems to slur it's changes as if it's slipping and it seems to generate heat which can sometimes smell. Luckily short journeys have got me home.
If I leave the car for an hour or two it will then work fine again, any ideas?
Car is in mint condition but as a precaution had the cam belt changed, car has done 136k miles so is a bit leggy but the car only cost £1500! This makes the 2.4 IMO look expensive, granted it is much lower miles than mine!
I am however having an issue with the gearbox which has only just started and so I am hoping a flush and refill with genuine Volvo fluid will cure.
Someone may be able to give me an answer into what going wrong with, essentially for the first few miles of any journey it is fine, smooth changes and quiet, after about 10-15 minutes the box seems to slur it's changes as if it's slipping and it seems to generate heat which can sometimes smell. Luckily short journeys have got me home.
If I leave the car for an hour or two it will then work fine again, any ideas?
What you descibe is probably one of the internal cutches not engauging when it should do, it could be down to dirty fluid, worn clutch or a sticking solenoid.
Try the gearbox flush but make sure you use the correct oil, be aware that if you put the cars details in to the Comma Oils web site it will indicate the WRONG type of fluid. The correct spec of fluid is in my previous post, you need to empty the gearbox by running the engine with one of the transmission cooling pipes disconnected at the radiator, pump out two litres of fluid then shut the engine down, add two litres of fresh oil via the gearbox dipstick tube. Continue the above until only clean fluid is being pumped out.
Finally take the car for a spin to heat the oil up and top up the gearbox to the max mark on the "Hot" side of the dipstick, only check the fluid levels with the engine running and after cycling the selector through all possible positions pausing for around 40 seconds in each position - Mike
Try the gearbox flush but make sure you use the correct oil, be aware that if you put the cars details in to the Comma Oils web site it will indicate the WRONG type of fluid. The correct spec of fluid is in my previous post, you need to empty the gearbox by running the engine with one of the transmission cooling pipes disconnected at the radiator, pump out two litres of fluid then shut the engine down, add two litres of fresh oil via the gearbox dipstick tube. Continue the above until only clean fluid is being pumped out.
Finally take the car for a spin to heat the oil up and top up the gearbox to the max mark on the "Hot" side of the dipstick, only check the fluid levels with the engine running and after cycling the selector through all possible positions pausing for around 40 seconds in each position - Mike
Cracking cars. I had one for five years and bar a cracked ABS ring on the wheel never missed a beat.
Main problem to watch for is the ETM issue. There is a software update from Volvo, however best fix is total replacement. Drop links on the suspension are not in keeping with the Volvo build, I did mine every year, probably something to do with the everest sized speed humps in the street and the shocking roads up here.
Comfy big cruiser, I managed 35mpg on a run to Cornwall from Elgin. Around town I was lucky to get that into the mid twenties.
Main problem to watch for is the ETM issue. There is a software update from Volvo, however best fix is total replacement. Drop links on the suspension are not in keeping with the Volvo build, I did mine every year, probably something to do with the everest sized speed humps in the street and the shocking roads up here.
Comfy big cruiser, I managed 35mpg on a run to Cornwall from Elgin. Around town I was lucky to get that into the mid twenties.
Auto gearbox problems on the 5-speed are nearly always the valve body. Very common at about 120-150k. Not much you can do about it except put a refurb valve body on - usually £800-£1000.
There are mixed opinions on changing the oil at high mileage, some gearbox specialists will do it, some say it is the last thing you should do as the fluid channels are very small on these and if you dislodge any muck in the fluid change they'll block killing the gearbox.
A flush *can* help but 9/10 a new valve body is the only thing which will actually fix it.
There are mixed opinions on changing the oil at high mileage, some gearbox specialists will do it, some say it is the last thing you should do as the fluid channels are very small on these and if you dislodge any muck in the fluid change they'll block killing the gearbox.
A flush *can* help but 9/10 a new valve body is the only thing which will actually fix it.
Yes, good cars, but early ones like this have some gremlins.
Thus car look horrifically overpriced though. It is very poor spec by the looks of it and has a huge dent in the passenger door.
For that price, I would expect a newer car. (apparently 03 and on cars were better, in particular they used a different ETM which doesn't pack up so often!)
Don't worry too much about mileage either. Mine is on 210,000 miles, IMO, they are very long lived!
Thus car look horrifically overpriced though. It is very poor spec by the looks of it and has a huge dent in the passenger door.
For that price, I would expect a newer car. (apparently 03 and on cars were better, in particular they used a different ETM which doesn't pack up so often!)
Don't worry too much about mileage either. Mine is on 210,000 miles, IMO, they are very long lived!
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