C70 - pitfalls, things to look out for?
Discussion
I did look in the search, but found nothing really meaningful...
I've always liked the look of the T5 C70 coupé and cabriolet and now I am seriously looking at one as a replacement for the second car in the family.
What do I need to look for, other than the obvious FSH and general condition of the vehicle? I understand that the 5-pot turbo is a pretty strong engine - how does the autobox fair? It it strong enough?
Any responses from C70 owners would be greatly appreciated.
I've always liked the look of the T5 C70 coupé and cabriolet and now I am seriously looking at one as a replacement for the second car in the family.
What do I need to look for, other than the obvious FSH and general condition of the vehicle? I understand that the 5-pot turbo is a pretty strong engine - how does the autobox fair? It it strong enough?
Any responses from C70 owners would be greatly appreciated.
Generally pretty good.
People seem to think the fly by wire throttles are problematic - they're not really if you a find a specialist who knows what they are doing with them.
Mechanically they are pure V70 so really quite good
The things I'd look for are worn suspension bushes. ALL OF THEM seem to have seized brake calipers - Every customer we have bring a newly purchased C70 to use for a service/check up have need to have their brakes totally overhauled.
Avoid the cabriolet if you enjoy driving - they really are very wobbly.
Body work seems to be prone to damage due to its lovely curves - I've found the odd one rust on the roof and tail gate (often a sign of a poor paint repair)
The suede seats bobble like mad (full leather much better)
Overall you'll not go far wrong with one.
For me it would be a T5 Manual coupe
People seem to think the fly by wire throttles are problematic - they're not really if you a find a specialist who knows what they are doing with them.
Mechanically they are pure V70 so really quite good
The things I'd look for are worn suspension bushes. ALL OF THEM seem to have seized brake calipers - Every customer we have bring a newly purchased C70 to use for a service/check up have need to have their brakes totally overhauled.
Avoid the cabriolet if you enjoy driving - they really are very wobbly.
Body work seems to be prone to damage due to its lovely curves - I've found the odd one rust on the roof and tail gate (often a sign of a poor paint repair)
The suede seats bobble like mad (full leather much better)
Overall you'll not go far wrong with one.
For me it would be a T5 Manual coupe
Auto boxes not usually a problem. Occasionally you get the odd software problem with the ecu (they have a separate management system for the box). The biggest fault we have found is that one of the wires is prone to wearing against the box casing - often misdiagnosed as box failure but it's simple to fix. As for slipping, put the box in D, left foot on the brake and push the accelerator, the revs should rise to around 2k but not go any higher (sign of slip) do it in all gears Inc reverse.
I'm considering selling my coupe. It is near immaculate, 94k, auto, fsh, new throttle module, latest software on the auto box, RICA remap, 18" Pegasus alloys, -30mm weitec suspension. If you're interested, gimme your email address and I'll send pics and full details.
Come and drive it and I'm sure you'll love it!
Come and drive it and I'm sure you'll love it!
Regarding brakes- in my experience, in most of the cars that need overhauling, the fluid was not flushed regularly and the pistons have reacted with the water that inevitably collects in brake fluid after a while. Flush it once a year and you'll be just fine.
If the car has an ABS light on, you will more than likely be looking at replacing the entire module if brought to a shop, even though the problem really lies with the broken solder joints inside the unit itself. It's easy enough to fix for free if you're handy. If not, be prepared to pay someone lots of money to fix it.
The autoboxes are just fine for ages as long as they receive periodic flushes and quality fluid. Volvo OEM fluid is lovely stuff, as well as anything made by Royal Purple or Redline.
Watch out for oil leaks from the rear main seal (where the engine joins the transmission), it's an engine out job to replace it according to Volvo. Is this actually the case? Depends on how good you are with spanners. It's actually easier to drop the whole motor/trans/subframe out of the bottom of the car and lift the car up and over it, but some shops won't do anything that isn't Volvo approved. Keep that in mind if you have someone else lined up to work on the car.
The blown rear main seal described above is usually caused by a clogged positive crankcase ventilation or PCV system. Make sure that it's clean and keep it that way.
All of that said, the cabs are floppy floppy things, and the coupes are only marginally better. If you want to keep it long term, look at fitting some strut braces both top and bottom of the chassis- I've been told this makes a world of difference. I'd contact IPD in Oregon, USA, if you have any desire to make it handle better.
Message me if you have any more questions, I'm happy to help.
If the car has an ABS light on, you will more than likely be looking at replacing the entire module if brought to a shop, even though the problem really lies with the broken solder joints inside the unit itself. It's easy enough to fix for free if you're handy. If not, be prepared to pay someone lots of money to fix it.
The autoboxes are just fine for ages as long as they receive periodic flushes and quality fluid. Volvo OEM fluid is lovely stuff, as well as anything made by Royal Purple or Redline.
Watch out for oil leaks from the rear main seal (where the engine joins the transmission), it's an engine out job to replace it according to Volvo. Is this actually the case? Depends on how good you are with spanners. It's actually easier to drop the whole motor/trans/subframe out of the bottom of the car and lift the car up and over it, but some shops won't do anything that isn't Volvo approved. Keep that in mind if you have someone else lined up to work on the car.
The blown rear main seal described above is usually caused by a clogged positive crankcase ventilation or PCV system. Make sure that it's clean and keep it that way.
All of that said, the cabs are floppy floppy things, and the coupes are only marginally better. If you want to keep it long term, look at fitting some strut braces both top and bottom of the chassis- I've been told this makes a world of difference. I'd contact IPD in Oregon, USA, if you have any desire to make it handle better.
Message me if you have any more questions, I'm happy to help.
Edited by Brickborg on Wednesday 28th July 04:12
Gassing Station | Volvo & Polestar | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff