V50 1.6D - What to look for?
Discussion
Looking for a reliable small estate that won't cost the earth to run and maintain and quite like the look of the V50. Doesn't need to be fast and the low road tax is an incentive for them.
Had a couple of V70's in the past and an XC90 but don't know a huge amount about the V50 - looking at around £4k so probably a 2010-2012 model with ideally less than 100k miles - anything in particular i should look out for? I googled cambelt intervals and they suggest either 10 or 15 years or around 100k - so would prefer to find one with this already done
TIA
Had a couple of V70's in the past and an XC90 but don't know a huge amount about the V50 - looking at around £4k so probably a 2010-2012 model with ideally less than 100k miles - anything in particular i should look out for? I googled cambelt intervals and they suggest either 10 or 15 years or around 100k - so would prefer to find one with this already done
TIA
Don't know much about that engine but from what I recall,
1. Volvo's habit of fitting aircon compressors with chocolate bearings, check for it not cycling in or making horrible grumbly noises. Condensers can also fail.
2. The usual age-related suspension things (e.g. knocking and clunking bushes)
3. Front wheel bearings, iirc they only come as a whole module with the ABS sensor and aren't cheap
4. If it's got the 4CD changer make sure the mechanism works and smoothly takes/ejects discs, it was pretty fragile and didn't take abuse well
Generally they're pretty robust cars though (at least, with either of the 5-cylinder petrols). Expect the usual Volvo attributes so even on old ones the paint should have worn well and not a speck of rust anywhere. Although that said, the leather isn't as good as the bigger/earlier Volvos so worn bolsters and ripped seats happen easily if it's fitted.
1. Volvo's habit of fitting aircon compressors with chocolate bearings, check for it not cycling in or making horrible grumbly noises. Condensers can also fail.
2. The usual age-related suspension things (e.g. knocking and clunking bushes)
3. Front wheel bearings, iirc they only come as a whole module with the ABS sensor and aren't cheap
4. If it's got the 4CD changer make sure the mechanism works and smoothly takes/ejects discs, it was pretty fragile and didn't take abuse well
Generally they're pretty robust cars though (at least, with either of the 5-cylinder petrols). Expect the usual Volvo attributes so even on old ones the paint should have worn well and not a speck of rust anywhere. Although that said, the leather isn't as good as the bigger/earlier Volvos so worn bolsters and ripped seats happen easily if it's fitted.
10 years/100k is the correct frequency, so at that so it should definitely have been done.
Had one (until someone decided to use it to stop on rather than put wear on their brakes) & found it quite a nice place to be but here are a few observations.
It will never be fast but they are a decent work horse with a couple of caveats.
1. Get the best audio spec you can as they are NOT upgradeable. DAB is pretty much a requirement these days as there are ridiculously few FM channels any more.
2. If you do go for the 1.6 you may be tempted to get the facelift one from 2011 as I was because the tax is free. However the later 1.6 engine is made by PSA & is used by many manufacturers but a relatively small number of these engines fail in that the block cracks leaving the only answer a replacement engine....... Ask me how I know.
Although mine was in my replacement v40 with the same engine/box.
If it were me with hindsight, I would probably err to a well kept pre-facelift as I believe this is a completely different engine but still has cheap tax.
Avoid autos as they aren't very robust/reliable.
Had one (until someone decided to use it to stop on rather than put wear on their brakes) & found it quite a nice place to be but here are a few observations.
It will never be fast but they are a decent work horse with a couple of caveats.
1. Get the best audio spec you can as they are NOT upgradeable. DAB is pretty much a requirement these days as there are ridiculously few FM channels any more.
2. If you do go for the 1.6 you may be tempted to get the facelift one from 2011 as I was because the tax is free. However the later 1.6 engine is made by PSA & is used by many manufacturers but a relatively small number of these engines fail in that the block cracks leaving the only answer a replacement engine....... Ask me how I know.
Although mine was in my replacement v40 with the same engine/box.If it were me with hindsight, I would probably err to a well kept pre-facelift as I believe this is a completely different engine but still has cheap tax.
Avoid autos as they aren't very robust/reliable.
Thanks both - thats really helpful - i've seen a couple of 2010 cars that have slightly higher tax at £35/yr rather than £20/yr so guessing that is the reason.
Hadn't realised that the audio couldn't be upgraded - will make sure to check that out as that could be painful on longer journeys.
Hadn't realised that the audio couldn't be upgraded - will make sure to check that out as that could be painful on longer journeys.
mattman said:
Thanks both - thats really helpful - i've seen a couple of 2010 cars that have slightly higher tax at £35/yr rather than £20/yr so guessing that is the reason.
Hadn't realised that the audio couldn't be upgraded - will make sure to check that out as that could be painful on longer journeys.
The "waterfall" centre console is only connected via fibreoptic for the audio, and cannot even be retrofitted with another system.Hadn't realised that the audio couldn't be upgraded - will make sure to check that out as that could be painful on longer journeys.
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