xc70 questions
Discussion
Great cars but transmission issues is the main worry, so I believe.
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=24...
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=24...
Entirely personal choice and opinion but I'd strongly consider putting your money into a P3 XC70 instead.
The P2 cars are nice enough but having had several, most having had age / wear issues and then having had a P2 V70R and suffered all the AWD woes they can have, I'd say buying one does require a very very thorough check or be prepared to spend money.
I debated a P2 XC70 last year, looked at a few but ultimately decided that ship had sailed and then realised that for the same money, a P3 car can be had and yes, whilst not without issues, they just feel streets ahead of the old P2 cars and the AWD is much improved.
Mine is an 08 D5 with 215,000 miles and bar a dodgy door lock, nothing has gone wrong with it. It's a fabulous tool for family duties and all this not a real Volvo garbage is exactly that, garbage. Both my Ford era Volvos are now wel north of 200k and look, feel and drive so much better than the P2 cars that went before them.
I'm not saying don't buy one, but just do your research into what can and will go wrong and be very aware of Geartronic failings, AWD failings, general wear and tear in the steering and suspension and the potential costs involved and be very cautious when viewing as many have fallen to that point where they've been owned on a budget and are potentially money pits. Or conversely, some are priced rather optimistically and that's also no guarantee of a good one.
The P2 cars are nice enough but having had several, most having had age / wear issues and then having had a P2 V70R and suffered all the AWD woes they can have, I'd say buying one does require a very very thorough check or be prepared to spend money.
I debated a P2 XC70 last year, looked at a few but ultimately decided that ship had sailed and then realised that for the same money, a P3 car can be had and yes, whilst not without issues, they just feel streets ahead of the old P2 cars and the AWD is much improved.
Mine is an 08 D5 with 215,000 miles and bar a dodgy door lock, nothing has gone wrong with it. It's a fabulous tool for family duties and all this not a real Volvo garbage is exactly that, garbage. Both my Ford era Volvos are now wel north of 200k and look, feel and drive so much better than the P2 cars that went before them.
I'm not saying don't buy one, but just do your research into what can and will go wrong and be very aware of Geartronic failings, AWD failings, general wear and tear in the steering and suspension and the potential costs involved and be very cautious when viewing as many have fallen to that point where they've been owned on a budget and are potentially money pits. Or conversely, some are priced rather optimistically and that's also no guarantee of a good one.
Just to add, what are the finer details of the car you're considering?
Petrol / diesel / manual / auto and what sort of figure are you looking at?
Another to be very wary of is the 4C chassis, ie the active shock absorbers but that's mainly the facelift cats do sort of 05 era on.
As an 03 pre-facelift car, regardless of the engine / box / spec I think I'd be looking sub £1500 and still treading extremely carefully unless it's shed territory and to be run with a care free approach, but even then...
Petrol / diesel / manual / auto and what sort of figure are you looking at?
Another to be very wary of is the 4C chassis, ie the active shock absorbers but that's mainly the facelift cats do sort of 05 era on.
As an 03 pre-facelift car, regardless of the engine / box / spec I think I'd be looking sub £1500 and still treading extremely carefully unless it's shed territory and to be run with a care free approach, but even then...
Check the rear drive is still connected - rear drive shafts often removed due to issues at gearbox end.
Gearbox (auto) is fine if oil has been changed - lots on web about this. Test drive for 20 miles + to see how box behaves - lots on web about this.
Abs warning light = dry solder joint in abs controller - if you are competent its a diy job - see web.
Check pass front footwell - if wet either heater matrix - horrible job, or screen bonding failed.
The popular internet view is pre dpf of 2007 are the less hassle diesel ones to get.
No experience of manuals.
T5 - suspension wear an tear
Gearbox (auto) is fine if oil has been changed - lots on web about this. Test drive for 20 miles + to see how box behaves - lots on web about this.
Abs warning light = dry solder joint in abs controller - if you are competent its a diy job - see web.
Check pass front footwell - if wet either heater matrix - horrible job, or screen bonding failed.
The popular internet view is pre dpf of 2007 are the less hassle diesel ones to get.
No experience of manuals.
T5 - suspension wear an tear
Edited by oilit on Sunday 31st October 08:20
oilit said:
Check the rear drive is still connected - rear drive shafts often removed due to issues at gearbox end.
That's more applicable to P1 cars, so pre 2000 that used a viscous coupling and some very very P2 cars but by 03 it's more likely to be Haldex and more involved.Edited by oilit on Sunday 31st October 08:20
The angle gear sleeves can strip or indeed the angle gears themselves, DEM modules can corrode and fail, Haldex pumps seize up due to neglect and no oil changes all of which will knock out the AWD and none of which are cheap to fix, relatively speaking.
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