2008 Volvo V50 Sport R-Design
Discussion
Breaking cover with my new family bus... 2008 Volvo V50 Sport R-Design
Posted at the back end of last year looking for estate suggestions, i was pretty much set on a 6cyl E46 Touring - i sold my previous car quicker than expected and with the great need for a car and the choice on not too leggy E46 330s minimal, i spotted this 15 miles from home and thought it looked pretty, good spec levels etc, engine wasnt my first choice but needs must, to be honest i had never ever given Volvos a 2nd glance before.
Viewed it the first time and walked away as there was no mention of a dPF replacement (needed at 75k on these) the owner was unaware - however a evening scouring online and armed with specific checks to carry out , i viewed the car for a second time and sealed the deal (October 2016);
Not expecting this to be a particularly exciting thread, just documenting maintenance as i go along...
(I have copied this from eleswhere, bought the car in October 2016)
First impressions: despite being the baby 2.0D, impressed by the torque (came from owning a couple of F4R clios)
Plans are;
Interior
What did make me smile was the fact the menu system will tell you complex things like the number of keys & VIN number but there is no mileage range or MPG readout on the dash cluster, is this something that can be added?
/*/
In preparation for my MOT on saturday i noticed i had side marker bulb and rear registration plate light bulb out, pleased to find i already has some LED equivalents sitting around (from my previous car)
side markers - wow , couldnt believe how easy it was to access bulbs in the headlight given the whole unit slides forward - top marks for volvo on that one!
Out with the old (ignore the dirty seats!)
in with the new
These are the ones i fitted, changed both sides
Rear reg bulb, the right one was out so i replaced both with a pair of festoon 239 LED bulbs, the right one failed to work and i noticed the corrosion build up inside the unit and also on the connections, so a bit of sandpaper and contact cleaner later the bulbs were working as intended
Total cost £0.
All other bulbs are working as intended, hopefully will fly through the MOT on saturday.
/*/
Good news, MOT passed today!
Couple of advisories;
2x plastic cover related advisories (why do they always add these...)
OS Balljoint cover split
NS & OS Wishbone rear bush degraded
Exhaust backbox deteriorated
/*/
Spent some time cleaning my 'leather' seats. Used diluted all purpose cleaner worked in with a soft brush, dried off and they used Meguiars leather cleaner and conditioner.
Drivers seat (worse one)-Before
Drivers seat-After, good improvement, black marks removed
Seats seem to have suffered a few marks over their life. I will apply the leather conditioner and cleaner on a regular basis from now on.
/*/
Today was servicing day on the V50, I had mixed success on this.
First job , strip , clean and lubricate front calipers, didn't get too far with this as I found the caliper retaining bolts to be ?7mm Allen , the 8 mm I tried was too big.
Pads look to be ready for a change soonish so will tackle the job at the same time
Oil change
Removing the engine cover I was faced with this
Once underneath with the undertray off , I noticed a slight oil weep
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u31/phall16v/My...
The culprit was quickly identified as the sump plug missing a washer
I undid it gingerly as I know how these can strip threads , one of my previous cars had suffered the same fate , thankfully it came undone without a hitch.
Luckily I had bought a replacement from my local factors , not knowing the correct type I got 2,a Ford one and a Volvo one (according to the guy). Sump plug off I decided to put for the copper crush one
Refitted and cleaned up
Crossland oil filter replaced with a Bosch item
5w30 Magnatec going in
The cleanest it will ever be (before running the engine)
Crossland air filter replaced with Bosch item
Fuel filter , weapons of choice
This is where it went wrong as the fuel filter housing was extremely tight and my 27mm 1/2 drive socket began rounding the plastic. The net result was I couldn't replace the filter
So had to put it back together and figure out my options, I assume I will need a full filter housing from Volvo. My gut feeling is that the O-ring May be missing causing the issue (given previous owners skills with the sump plug washer). The housing has 40nm stamped on it which it certainly feels tighter than that !
My priming pump worked a treat though
Final job was to replace the split rear wiper blade
Servicing jobs outstanding
So...rang Volvo this morning for a price on the fuel filter housing - £98 +VAT. So after a bit of research online i found the correct filter housing (Non Volvo branded) for £38.13 delivered from Amazon...Result!
For anyone else interested the part number is Purflux FC582 (as printed on top of the housing). Link here
/*/
A recent spell of dry weather meant i could sort the outstanding bits i intended to do previously.
First off, Pollen Filter, bit of a pain but they always are!
Old vs New - Seen a bit of use that one!
Osram Cool Blue replacement bulbs, not used these in the dark yet, hopefully will see an improvement, took all of about 5 mins to do both sides due to the design of the headlamp removal
Fuel Filter housing replacement
First step - remove complete housing, drain fuel into container for use later.
Checking the new item did have a filter pre-installed
With the help of a massive syringe i refilled the new filter housing bowl with the diesel from the old housing
Took a bit of bleeding , understandable as there was a fair bit of free space in the housing, made easy with this hand pump
Gave it its first wash in my ownership, gave the front end a coating of Poorboys Black Hole and covered with Collinite #915 - perfect winter wax - will get to the rest of the car at somepoint, a little short on time
/*/
Gave the Throttle body a clean earlier and instantly regretted it as i quickly couldn't feel my fingers, only have before pictures , a clean up was definitely needed.
TB
inlet
intake hose
Posted at the back end of last year looking for estate suggestions, i was pretty much set on a 6cyl E46 Touring - i sold my previous car quicker than expected and with the great need for a car and the choice on not too leggy E46 330s minimal, i spotted this 15 miles from home and thought it looked pretty, good spec levels etc, engine wasnt my first choice but needs must, to be honest i had never ever given Volvos a 2nd glance before.
Viewed it the first time and walked away as there was no mention of a dPF replacement (needed at 75k on these) the owner was unaware - however a evening scouring online and armed with specific checks to carry out , i viewed the car for a second time and sealed the deal (October 2016);
Not expecting this to be a particularly exciting thread, just documenting maintenance as i go along...
(I have copied this from eleswhere, bought the car in October 2016)
First impressions: despite being the baby 2.0D, impressed by the torque (came from owning a couple of F4R clios)
Plans are;
Interior
- Clean leather as there are some marks on the drivers seat (cream leather).
- Source Boot mat
- Source Boot divider (to allow dogs /pram to share the boot space safely)
- Good wash / polish (Poorboys black hole for time being) / wax in time for winter. Spring will hopefully allow me some time to correct the paintwork, although black it appears a little blue , i am guessing it has never seen any wax/polish in its life.
- R-Design grill badge has faded, so looking to source a new one of those (any links would be appreciated,seen a couple of eBay).
- MOT which is due in next 2 weeks (aware of this when buying). Confident it should fly through.
What did make me smile was the fact the menu system will tell you complex things like the number of keys & VIN number but there is no mileage range or MPG readout on the dash cluster, is this something that can be added?
/*/
In preparation for my MOT on saturday i noticed i had side marker bulb and rear registration plate light bulb out, pleased to find i already has some LED equivalents sitting around (from my previous car)
side markers - wow , couldnt believe how easy it was to access bulbs in the headlight given the whole unit slides forward - top marks for volvo on that one!
Out with the old (ignore the dirty seats!)
in with the new
These are the ones i fitted, changed both sides
Rear reg bulb, the right one was out so i replaced both with a pair of festoon 239 LED bulbs, the right one failed to work and i noticed the corrosion build up inside the unit and also on the connections, so a bit of sandpaper and contact cleaner later the bulbs were working as intended
Total cost £0.
All other bulbs are working as intended, hopefully will fly through the MOT on saturday.
/*/
Good news, MOT passed today!
Couple of advisories;
2x plastic cover related advisories (why do they always add these...)
OS Balljoint cover split
NS & OS Wishbone rear bush degraded
Exhaust backbox deteriorated
/*/
Spent some time cleaning my 'leather' seats. Used diluted all purpose cleaner worked in with a soft brush, dried off and they used Meguiars leather cleaner and conditioner.
Drivers seat (worse one)-Before
Drivers seat-After, good improvement, black marks removed
Seats seem to have suffered a few marks over their life. I will apply the leather conditioner and cleaner on a regular basis from now on.
/*/
Today was servicing day on the V50, I had mixed success on this.
First job , strip , clean and lubricate front calipers, didn't get too far with this as I found the caliper retaining bolts to be ?7mm Allen , the 8 mm I tried was too big.
Pads look to be ready for a change soonish so will tackle the job at the same time
Oil change
Removing the engine cover I was faced with this
Once underneath with the undertray off , I noticed a slight oil weep
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u31/phall16v/My...
The culprit was quickly identified as the sump plug missing a washer
I undid it gingerly as I know how these can strip threads , one of my previous cars had suffered the same fate , thankfully it came undone without a hitch.
Luckily I had bought a replacement from my local factors , not knowing the correct type I got 2,a Ford one and a Volvo one (according to the guy). Sump plug off I decided to put for the copper crush one
Refitted and cleaned up
Crossland oil filter replaced with a Bosch item
5w30 Magnatec going in
The cleanest it will ever be (before running the engine)
Crossland air filter replaced with Bosch item
Fuel filter , weapons of choice
This is where it went wrong as the fuel filter housing was extremely tight and my 27mm 1/2 drive socket began rounding the plastic. The net result was I couldn't replace the filter
So had to put it back together and figure out my options, I assume I will need a full filter housing from Volvo. My gut feeling is that the O-ring May be missing causing the issue (given previous owners skills with the sump plug washer). The housing has 40nm stamped on it which it certainly feels tighter than that !
My priming pump worked a treat though
Final job was to replace the split rear wiper blade
Servicing jobs outstanding
- Replace Pollen filter
- Fit Osram Cool blue headlight bulbs
- Replace fuel filter housing
So...rang Volvo this morning for a price on the fuel filter housing - £98 +VAT. So after a bit of research online i found the correct filter housing (Non Volvo branded) for £38.13 delivered from Amazon...Result!
For anyone else interested the part number is Purflux FC582 (as printed on top of the housing). Link here
/*/
A recent spell of dry weather meant i could sort the outstanding bits i intended to do previously.
First off, Pollen Filter, bit of a pain but they always are!
Old vs New - Seen a bit of use that one!
Osram Cool Blue replacement bulbs, not used these in the dark yet, hopefully will see an improvement, took all of about 5 mins to do both sides due to the design of the headlamp removal
Fuel Filter housing replacement
First step - remove complete housing, drain fuel into container for use later.
Checking the new item did have a filter pre-installed
With the help of a massive syringe i refilled the new filter housing bowl with the diesel from the old housing
Took a bit of bleeding , understandable as there was a fair bit of free space in the housing, made easy with this hand pump
Gave it its first wash in my ownership, gave the front end a coating of Poorboys Black Hole and covered with Collinite #915 - perfect winter wax - will get to the rest of the car at somepoint, a little short on time
/*/
Gave the Throttle body a clean earlier and instantly regretted it as i quickly couldn't feel my fingers, only have before pictures , a clean up was definitely needed.
TB
inlet
intake hose
Edited by redandwhite on Monday 16th January 10:01
Edited by redandwhite on Monday 16th January 10:01
Edited by redandwhite on Monday 16th January 12:48
Edited by redandwhite on Monday 16th January 12:50
Edited by redandwhite on Monday 16th January 12:51
^^ Well thats an image fail...
Note: The Volvo is v.dirty at the moment...
Replaced the plates recently, possibly due to cold weather was a little lazy and didnt remove all (any) of the adhesive strips holding the previous plate on (tried label remover / tardis and it was painfully slow)
Thought i had got away with it but my boot plate promptly fell off after a down pour, luckily i was placing something in the boot and i didnt loose it whilst on the move!
So yesterday i set about doing a proper job front and back of removing all the residue before re refitting my plates. Had the help of an infra-red lamp and some degreaser
Rear before
URL=http://s164.photobucket.com/user/phall16v/media/My%20Cars/2008%20Volvo%20V50%20R-Design/IMAG3586_zpshf8qhoqe.jpg.html]
[/URL]
Infra-red lamp doing its thing
All removed and a quick polish with AG SRP
Much better
Complete with PH sticker
Front complete
Took the oppourtunity to replace the OEM floor mats with some nice R-Design ones
Note: The Volvo is v.dirty at the moment...
Replaced the plates recently, possibly due to cold weather was a little lazy and didnt remove all (any) of the adhesive strips holding the previous plate on (tried label remover / tardis and it was painfully slow)
Thought i had got away with it but my boot plate promptly fell off after a down pour, luckily i was placing something in the boot and i didnt loose it whilst on the move!
So yesterday i set about doing a proper job front and back of removing all the residue before re refitting my plates. Had the help of an infra-red lamp and some degreaser
Rear before
URL=http://s164.photobucket.com/user/phall16v/media/My%20Cars/2008%20Volvo%20V50%20R-Design/IMAG3586_zpshf8qhoqe.jpg.html]
[/URL]Infra-red lamp doing its thing
All removed and a quick polish with AG SRP
Much better
Complete with PH sticker
Front complete
Took the oppourtunity to replace the OEM floor mats with some nice R-Design ones
Carried out a few jobs on the V50 recently. First was the wishbone replacement which was done some weeks ago, the original ones (not OE as far as i could tell) were beyond their best - i didnt replace with OE but went for GSF Vetech ones (Volvo gets Vtech?!)
IMG_20170506_083422 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Side by side
IMG_20170506_083520 by Montana BI, on Flickr
These were an advisory on the last MOT but didnt cure the metallic rattle i had on the NS, regardless, job ticked off.
In hunting down the source of the rattle i quickly focussed on the top mounts, as i could replicate the rattle when bouncing the NS up and down on the shocker, replaced the top mount and sure enough it fell apart in my hand when removing from the strut, new febi items (cups and bearings were fitted) -- Had an issue with the drivers side (siezed pinch bolt that was trying to round so will re-takle that when i have an impact gun to hand)
IMG_20170604_085716 by Montana BI, on Flickr
On the plus side the replacement NS top mount cured the metallic rattling issue i had, i now only have a slight rattle to eliminate which i am hoping is the OS top mount (yet to do).
I also discovered i had a NS sticking caliper, alloy no hotter than normal but making a right racket when driving through built up areas (high walls/houses etc). Managed to pick up a set of 320mm calipers / carriers / pads cheap :-)
2017-07-13_09-20-25 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Pads will be binned and new discs / pads purchased.
Spent tonight cleaning the calipers, splitting the carrier from calipers and giving them a lick of Silver paint to tidy them up. Pistons are nice and free along with bleed nipple and brake line.
2017-07-13_09-23-46 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Over the weekend i also plucked up the courage to tint my rear 5 windows, the job isnt perfect but for 3 hours work and £40 for the kit i am happy. The only failure i had was the rear window - despite preshrinking it was a disaster and i ended up removing it.
Before
Before tints by Montana BI, on Flickr
After
After rear tints by Montana BI, on Flickr
Had access to power tools today so got stuck in with replacing the drivers side top mount.
Upon removing the strut top the top mount dropped into many pieces - well worn!
2017-07-23_03-51-11 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Suspension pinch bolt had previously prevented me from completing this job as was beginning to round , so replaced the bolt after removing with an impact gun
2017-07-23_03-51-36 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Strut back in position (note - plenty of copper grease on the bottom of the strut makes this 100% easier!)
2017-07-23_03-51-55 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Struts are pretty tired with minimal rebound and showing slight leakage so will eventually replace these.
Interestingly the NS knock returned yesterday and is still present after replacing both top mounts which leads me to the conclusion that its the struts at fault.
IMG_20170506_083422 by Montana BI, on FlickrSide by side
IMG_20170506_083520 by Montana BI, on FlickrThese were an advisory on the last MOT but didnt cure the metallic rattle i had on the NS, regardless, job ticked off.
In hunting down the source of the rattle i quickly focussed on the top mounts, as i could replicate the rattle when bouncing the NS up and down on the shocker, replaced the top mount and sure enough it fell apart in my hand when removing from the strut, new febi items (cups and bearings were fitted) -- Had an issue with the drivers side (siezed pinch bolt that was trying to round so will re-takle that when i have an impact gun to hand)
IMG_20170604_085716 by Montana BI, on FlickrOn the plus side the replacement NS top mount cured the metallic rattling issue i had, i now only have a slight rattle to eliminate which i am hoping is the OS top mount (yet to do).
I also discovered i had a NS sticking caliper, alloy no hotter than normal but making a right racket when driving through built up areas (high walls/houses etc). Managed to pick up a set of 320mm calipers / carriers / pads cheap :-)
2017-07-13_09-20-25 by Montana BI, on FlickrPads will be binned and new discs / pads purchased.
Spent tonight cleaning the calipers, splitting the carrier from calipers and giving them a lick of Silver paint to tidy them up. Pistons are nice and free along with bleed nipple and brake line.
2017-07-13_09-23-46 by Montana BI, on FlickrOver the weekend i also plucked up the courage to tint my rear 5 windows, the job isnt perfect but for 3 hours work and £40 for the kit i am happy. The only failure i had was the rear window - despite preshrinking it was a disaster and i ended up removing it.
Before
Before tints by Montana BI, on FlickrAfter
After rear tints by Montana BI, on FlickrHad access to power tools today so got stuck in with replacing the drivers side top mount.
Upon removing the strut top the top mount dropped into many pieces - well worn!
2017-07-23_03-51-11 by Montana BI, on FlickrSuspension pinch bolt had previously prevented me from completing this job as was beginning to round , so replaced the bolt after removing with an impact gun
2017-07-23_03-51-36 by Montana BI, on FlickrStrut back in position (note - plenty of copper grease on the bottom of the strut makes this 100% easier!)
2017-07-23_03-51-55 by Montana BI, on FlickrStruts are pretty tired with minimal rebound and showing slight leakage so will eventually replace these.
Interestingly the NS knock returned yesterday and is still present after replacing both top mounts which leads me to the conclusion that its the struts at fault.
redandwhite said:
Yes, had come across your thread previously on Volvo forums, but you used a different handle, cheers.P
Been a while since i have updated this (went to Nurburgring last summer) and in prep for that did the following;
Cambelt/tensioner/idler pulley
Auxiliary belt/tensioner
Replace locking wheel bolts
Oil & filter
Gearbox oil
OSF wheel bearing
OSF ABS sensor
Inner/Outer track rod (both sides)
OSF Inner CV boot
Rear anti-roll bar droplinks
Front wiper blades
Brake fluid
Came in at £300 + many hours of my time!
Default 'ring shot
2018-07-05_11-33-32 by Montana BI, on Flickr
August - i had battery issues
OLD battery
IMG_20180825_130359333_HDR by Montana BI, on Flickr
New one
IMG_20180825_131230116 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Fast forward to October when i needed to replace the alternator
Latest problem , power system service - urgent dashboard message, after a quick thread - realised it was new alternator time.
All guides, bar one comment, suggested OSF wheel off, arch liner back and understray off, however as i had a good understanding of the general area from my 13 hour cambelt job - i have 0 desire to go that route, opting to do it from the top instead.
Removing the alternator
Old versus new, yes working in the dark again.
2018-10-19_09-35-36 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Alternator out
IMG_20181015_194006470 by Montana BI, on Flickr
16mm ring spanner doing the business. 1 click at a time, space is tight.
IMG_20181017_165115660 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Nothing to report, recently job VIDa working after plenty of ****ing about with a VM etc - in the end the clean windows 7 install with updates did the trick.
2019-01-15_10-03-24 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Cambelt/tensioner/idler pulley
Auxiliary belt/tensioner
Replace locking wheel bolts
Oil & filter
Gearbox oil
OSF wheel bearing
OSF ABS sensor
Inner/Outer track rod (both sides)
OSF Inner CV boot
Rear anti-roll bar droplinks
Front wiper blades
Brake fluid
Came in at £300 + many hours of my time!
Default 'ring shot
2018-07-05_11-33-32 by Montana BI, on FlickrAugust - i had battery issues
OLD battery
IMG_20180825_130359333_HDR by Montana BI, on FlickrNew one
IMG_20180825_131230116 by Montana BI, on FlickrFast forward to October when i needed to replace the alternator
Latest problem , power system service - urgent dashboard message, after a quick thread - realised it was new alternator time.
All guides, bar one comment, suggested OSF wheel off, arch liner back and understray off, however as i had a good understanding of the general area from my 13 hour cambelt job - i have 0 desire to go that route, opting to do it from the top instead.
Removing the alternator
- Disconnect battery -ve lead
- Fuel filter metal cover off
- Remove screw from LHS of filter holding it in position
- Flip fuel filter 180 degrees to get it out of the way
- Disconnect wiring to alternator
- Remove 3 bolts from the alternator - also dont forget to loosen the ?5mm allen head which the alternator appears to pivot on
- Remove alternator with a little wiggling - leave the belt in situ
- Wiggle the alternator back into position
- With a 17mm spanner, take all tension out of the tensioner (turn anti clockwise) and use and allen key/drill bit to lock this in position (3 holes, choose the one closest to the drivers seat). NOTE this was pretty hard going when doing it solo, so may need a helping hand.
- Route the belt back over the alternator and hand tighten all bolts to get the alternator into position.
- Visually check the routing of the belt as it may have become dislodged during refitting.
- Reconnect alternator connections / battery -ve / fuel filter housing and test run the engine. Job done.
Old versus new, yes working in the dark again.
2018-10-19_09-35-36 by Montana BI, on FlickrAlternator out
IMG_20181015_194006470 by Montana BI, on Flickr16mm ring spanner doing the business. 1 click at a time, space is tight.
IMG_20181017_165115660 by Montana BI, on FlickrNothing to report, recently job VIDa working after plenty of ****ing about with a VM etc - in the end the clean windows 7 install with updates did the trick.
2019-01-15_10-03-24 by Montana BI, on FlickrCurrently just over 2 years into ownership and planning to replace around october time (3 years is the milestone i have in my head) - normally keep my cars 18 months. However this is my first 'family car' and does everything i need it to do...I have a hankering for a P2 V70R - been reading up on these and after considering AWD/4C suspension issues, a V70 T5 may be a better option as its 2WD with normal suspension struts, for not much less performance - no where near as good looking a the 'R' though.
The sensible part of me says run it (V50) into the ground!
The sensible part of me says run it (V50) into the ground!
Just noticed this, great read.
I bought my wife an 07 V50 Sport with the same 2.0D engine a year or so back to replace her Mk5 Astra which was just too small for growing child duties. Despite the hand wringers on the forums claiming it's not a proper Volvo (the 240 they wail...) it's been a terrific car and despite the hand wringers saying the 2.0D originated in France and therefore must be crap, it's actually a pretty good engine. Plenty enough power and the torque makes it pretty effortless to drive and touch wood, I've not had any issues to date despite it now touching 203,000 miles.
With regards to the fuel filter changes, there's a simple solution... the hand bulb you have, fit it in line in the fuel feed just before the filter housing. During a routine filter change, don't worry about priming anything or drawing fuel through etc... just put the new filter in, remove the return hose and pump the newly installed bulb a couple of times. Once fuel is coming through the housing, replace the hose then undo the small drain on top of the filter housing, couple more pumps till fuel comes out, tighten and start the car. Mine starts first turn, every turn.
A decoke is next in line for mine following it's full service yesterday however removing the pressure sensor and the doodah thingy then both sit in the throttle body housing (one screw each) and cleaning them with carb cleaner seems to make a difference. Mine get filthy pretty quickly, nature of the beast but the car does seem a bit perkier once they've had a clean. Aside for that and a wheel bearing, two rear shock mounts and a CEM that started to play up (cured with some contact cleaner and cotton buds to clean the pins) it's been pretty flawless.
A V70R is worlds apart... had mine for two years (05 V70R manual) having been bought fairly cheap but I spent the same again making it right. There's nothing to be scared of if you can work a spanner and have access to VIDA however parts can be costly (ie the 4C shocks, discs and pads etc) and there's a lot of bespoke R stuff like the calipers, steering rack and so on that can go wrong with age and be hard to put right. Mine was fabulous on the right road on the right day, ie smooth, open and dry but anything else and it was just a bloody chore. They're very hard, very highly strung and so after two years and not much use, I sold mine and 90% of the time don't miss it... but there's something about them you just can't help but love. A T5 would be easier, softer and probably just as quick in the real world but the two are poles apart. A T5 simply doesn't feel the same as an R but as a daily driver, I'd admit... the T5 would be the better choice. Bit like saying a Golf GTi is the better choice over a Golf R but then again, it's not an R.
A V50 T5 could be an interesting proposition...
I bought my wife an 07 V50 Sport with the same 2.0D engine a year or so back to replace her Mk5 Astra which was just too small for growing child duties. Despite the hand wringers on the forums claiming it's not a proper Volvo (the 240 they wail...) it's been a terrific car and despite the hand wringers saying the 2.0D originated in France and therefore must be crap, it's actually a pretty good engine. Plenty enough power and the torque makes it pretty effortless to drive and touch wood, I've not had any issues to date despite it now touching 203,000 miles.
With regards to the fuel filter changes, there's a simple solution... the hand bulb you have, fit it in line in the fuel feed just before the filter housing. During a routine filter change, don't worry about priming anything or drawing fuel through etc... just put the new filter in, remove the return hose and pump the newly installed bulb a couple of times. Once fuel is coming through the housing, replace the hose then undo the small drain on top of the filter housing, couple more pumps till fuel comes out, tighten and start the car. Mine starts first turn, every turn.
A decoke is next in line for mine following it's full service yesterday however removing the pressure sensor and the doodah thingy then both sit in the throttle body housing (one screw each) and cleaning them with carb cleaner seems to make a difference. Mine get filthy pretty quickly, nature of the beast but the car does seem a bit perkier once they've had a clean. Aside for that and a wheel bearing, two rear shock mounts and a CEM that started to play up (cured with some contact cleaner and cotton buds to clean the pins) it's been pretty flawless.
A V70R is worlds apart... had mine for two years (05 V70R manual) having been bought fairly cheap but I spent the same again making it right. There's nothing to be scared of if you can work a spanner and have access to VIDA however parts can be costly (ie the 4C shocks, discs and pads etc) and there's a lot of bespoke R stuff like the calipers, steering rack and so on that can go wrong with age and be hard to put right. Mine was fabulous on the right road on the right day, ie smooth, open and dry but anything else and it was just a bloody chore. They're very hard, very highly strung and so after two years and not much use, I sold mine and 90% of the time don't miss it... but there's something about them you just can't help but love. A T5 would be easier, softer and probably just as quick in the real world but the two are poles apart. A T5 simply doesn't feel the same as an R but as a daily driver, I'd admit... the T5 would be the better choice. Bit like saying a Golf GTi is the better choice over a Golf R but then again, it's not an R.
A V50 T5 could be an interesting proposition...
Thanks for the informative reply, its due a service in June time and i may well replace the fuel filter again and give the TB a re-clean, when you say decoke - do you mean terraclean or the like?
The internet is awash with hate for the 2.0D engine, i cant fault it, i have never thought its needed more power, its a nice torquey engine.
Have considered the V50 T5, however like the extra size the V70 gives and the 'R' looks are just right in my opinion. Was yours auto or manual?
Cambelt change YT vid (yes i did a slideshow, for my first time doing a cambelt and a 'how-to' YT vid i was never going to do it 'live')
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGs_QuNSB2c&t=...
The internet is awash with hate for the 2.0D engine, i cant fault it, i have never thought its needed more power, its a nice torquey engine.
Have considered the V50 T5, however like the extra size the V70 gives and the 'R' looks are just right in my opinion. Was yours auto or manual?
Cambelt change YT vid (yes i did a slideshow, for my first time doing a cambelt and a 'how-to' YT vid i was never going to do it 'live')
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGs_QuNSB2c&t=...
Following on from this thread https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Calculated my monthly cost (have since included £250 depreciation)
2008 Volvo V50
Owned for 28 months / 17.3k P/M
Depreciation £250 £8.86
Fuel cost £2,201.30 £78.77
VED cost £570.00 £20.40
Insurance cost £970.00 £34.71
Maintenance/MOT £1,473.97 £52.74
Total per month £194
Also pleased to see my Photobucket pics have returned.
Calculated my monthly cost (have since included £250 depreciation)
2008 Volvo V50
Owned for 28 months / 17.3k P/M
Depreciation £250 £8.86
Fuel cost £2,201.30 £78.77
VED cost £570.00 £20.40
Insurance cost £970.00 £34.71
Maintenance/MOT £1,473.97 £52.74
Total per month £194
Also pleased to see my Photobucket pics have returned.
Recently my passenger mirror decided to fall off
2019-04-29_11-44-27 by Montana BI, on Flickr
Got a replacement from ECP
IMG_20190421_103823435_HDR by Montana BI, on Flickr
Along with some Bosch Aero wiper blades
IMG_20190421_103832311_HDR by Montana BI, on Flickr
Replaced the blades and removed the old heated mirror backing plate, decided to check the mirror tilt was working as intended with the front glass off (there were 2x white plastic strips that were in with the new glass), so i put the key in the ignition and the new mirror glass i placed on the windscreen was launched by the wipers onto the floor (they were still in the 'on' position). Wasnt to happy at my error - This was the result
IMG_20190421_104217263 by Montana BI, on Flickr
On the plus side, the wipers are decent.
2019-04-29_11-44-27 by Montana BI, on FlickrGot a replacement from ECP
IMG_20190421_103823435_HDR by Montana BI, on FlickrAlong with some Bosch Aero wiper blades
IMG_20190421_103832311_HDR by Montana BI, on FlickrReplaced the blades and removed the old heated mirror backing plate, decided to check the mirror tilt was working as intended with the front glass off (there were 2x white plastic strips that were in with the new glass), so i put the key in the ignition and the new mirror glass i placed on the windscreen was launched by the wipers onto the floor (they were still in the 'on' position). Wasnt to happy at my error - This was the result
IMG_20190421_104217263 by Montana BI, on FlickrOn the plus side, the wipers are decent.
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