p2 v70 T5 facelift light missfire
Discussion
morning all. just after a few ideas before I get the codes checked on the car. developed a random misfire last night which I was hoping it would go away but it hasn't! engine lightly missfires when pulling off on slight acceleration, seems ok once you've pulled off but then will missfire again under heavy acceleration. thinking it might be a coil pack on its way out. any suggestions of what else to check? cheers
ben5732 said:
morning all. just after a few ideas before I get the codes checked on the car. developed a random misfire last night which I was hoping it would go away but it hasn't! engine lightly missfires when pulling off on slight acceleration, seems ok once you've pulled off but then will missfire again under heavy acceleration. thinking it might be a coil pack on its way out. any suggestions of what else to check? cheers
Usually, if a coil pack lets go, it'll run like a wounded dog.There's a few things you could try...
Check all the vac pipes to and from the TCV, actuator, recirc valve etc are intact and not perished,
Clean the MAF
Clean the throttle body (although probably won't be the route cause)
Change the spark plugs
Check the bug charge air pipes aren't leaking at the connections - look for oil buildup around the pipe where it connects to the rubber pipe.
want to avoid taking it to the garage if at all possible just moved house and a wee bit skint! Good places to join for assistance, borrowing code readers etc. are: www.t5d5.org and www.volvoforums.org.uk
Don.
Don.
norchi said:
Good places to join for assistance, borrowing code readers etc. are: www.t5d5.org and www.volvoforums.org.uk
Don.
And VPCUK.org and volvotuning.netDon.
Since Don and I are both members of the above four, and then some, I can say there's a lot of help out there should you need it.
I was just about to start a new post but no need as this one is the same I'd say.
Also, I am keen to avoid paying for a solution when I'm more or less there myself.
Have an 850 T5 manual-great car but since owning it has had a slight misfire during acceleration, worse when full throttle and higher revs.
The car wont run on 5 cylinders cleanly under full throttle.
So far have replaced distributor cap as original cracked.
No better or worse.
Car has slight oil leak on top right (airbox end) of engine.
My theory is old oil has blocked up the last injector-see photo. Am I in the right area with this?
Next question is does the injector rail just pull out? I don't want to make things worse-obviously I need to undo rail first an it is connected to fuel line though.
Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Any help appreciated and may benefit original poster too I hope.
Also, I am keen to avoid paying for a solution when I'm more or less there myself.
Have an 850 T5 manual-great car but since owning it has had a slight misfire during acceleration, worse when full throttle and higher revs.
The car wont run on 5 cylinders cleanly under full throttle.
So far have replaced distributor cap as original cracked.
No better or worse.
Car has slight oil leak on top right (airbox end) of engine.
My theory is old oil has blocked up the last injector-see photo. Am I in the right area with this?
Next question is does the injector rail just pull out? I don't want to make things worse-obviously I need to undo rail first an it is connected to fuel line though.
Or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Any help appreciated and may benefit original poster too I hope.
I don't want to disconnect injector rail from fuel supply, just take the injector rail away from where the injectors go into the engine.
Or, horror of horrors, can I squirt wd40 down there?
I'm thinking NO but it spoils the car as it is.
Thanks in advance and I have read the replies to above posts but this problem seems slightly different.
Or, horror of horrors, can I squirt wd40 down there?
I'm thinking NO but it spoils the car as it is.
Thanks in advance and I have read the replies to above posts but this problem seems slightly different.
Oil won't get into the injectors mate, the seal is too tight.
Have you changed the main coil feeding the dizzy? the HT leads? Plugs?
The injectors will just pull out of the manifold but you'll then need to undo the retaining plate on the rail to release the injectors from the rail. Only remove the injectors if you plan to refurbish or replace them though.
If the engine is high mileage and been run on cheap fuel for a lot of it's life, the injectors could just need refurbishing (I can help with that one
) but I'd look at the ignition system first.
Have you changed the main coil feeding the dizzy? the HT leads? Plugs?
The injectors will just pull out of the manifold but you'll then need to undo the retaining plate on the rail to release the injectors from the rail. Only remove the injectors if you plan to refurbish or replace them though.
If the engine is high mileage and been run on cheap fuel for a lot of it's life, the injectors could just need refurbishing (I can help with that one
) but I'd look at the ignition system first.Thanks for advice.
I spent a bit of time on the car yesterday, going over old ground just to be sure.
Distributor cap dry as a bone and was new a few months ago, so ruled that out.
Does the rotor arm suffer wear or clog up?
Have noticed car runs better on super unleaded, so run it 100% on that, however on long motorway journeys where constant throttle is used sometimes the engine light comes on, and car 'smells' rich to me, or lean, don't know.
After a day or two of normal running, light goes out, and car stops smelling.
This suggests to me a fouling plug? As when used normally it clears itself?
I know I am going over old ground, but thought I'd mention that.
Maybe I've narrowed it down, maybe not?
Thoughts welcome if you can put up with me!
I spent a bit of time on the car yesterday, going over old ground just to be sure.
Distributor cap dry as a bone and was new a few months ago, so ruled that out.
Does the rotor arm suffer wear or clog up?
Have noticed car runs better on super unleaded, so run it 100% on that, however on long motorway journeys where constant throttle is used sometimes the engine light comes on, and car 'smells' rich to me, or lean, don't know.
After a day or two of normal running, light goes out, and car stops smelling.
This suggests to me a fouling plug? As when used normally it clears itself?
I know I am going over old ground, but thought I'd mention that.
Maybe I've narrowed it down, maybe not?
Thoughts welcome if you can put up with me!
martinrpeachey said:
So you can rule the dizzy out, they tend not to clog but can wear over time.
Plugs, leads and coil next and see how you go. Many people would consider those an annual service item, or at least part of a "stage - zero" tune up.
Yes thanks for that.Plugs, leads and coil next and see how you go. Many people would consider those an annual service item, or at least part of a "stage - zero" tune up.
I've decided (for now anyway) that after being sidetracked by the injectors (see below why) it must be a 'basic' plug/lead/coil problem, as folks have advised me many moons ago.
However, please see photo of top of engine taken yesterday. I thought the injector 'went' into the spark plug...bit thick of me to say the least.
Cylinder 2 (as in left to right) has a darker tip to the plug, and this is also the same plug that has had oil run down into it.
My theory is that if it was coil/plugs themselves then I'd have more than one not working properly, or getting worse over time. Looks like I either have a leak or someone has spilt oil at some stage. Will run car today without cam cover thingy.
So I've cleaned mess up, including leads etc, but car runs the same.
Buying a new lead set later today, so will see how I go, as can't remove plugs myself anyway.
Edit-what I'm saying is that i think the HT lead to cylinder 2 is not working as it should. Leads are a bit knackered with old oil anyway so buying a new set.
Edited by BlimeyCharlie on Monday 7th October 13:21
DOn't forget the coil that feeds the dizzy - it's worth doing the lot as a matter of course.
The oil on the head can come from 2 sources...
1. somebody has been careless when filling the oil or...
2 The PCV breather (the pipe that runs past the filler neck and down behind the inlet manifold) is bubbling oil out where it connects to the head. This could be a sign of a blocked PCV (breather) system.
To check the breather system, go for a 10-20 minute drive, pull over and with the engine running, pull the dipstick out. If there's puffs of white smoke then the breather system is blocked and should be sorted asap as the buildup of pressure can cause the crank seal to rupture... that's a gearbox/clutch/flywheel off job and you don't want that
The oil on the head can come from 2 sources...
1. somebody has been careless when filling the oil or...
2 The PCV breather (the pipe that runs past the filler neck and down behind the inlet manifold) is bubbling oil out where it connects to the head. This could be a sign of a blocked PCV (breather) system.
To check the breather system, go for a 10-20 minute drive, pull over and with the engine running, pull the dipstick out. If there's puffs of white smoke then the breather system is blocked and should be sorted asap as the buildup of pressure can cause the crank seal to rupture... that's a gearbox/clutch/flywheel off job and you don't want that
Just a 'quick' update.
Oil is actually leaking from oil cap on top of engine. Has been doing this for ages, but I thought it was a leak from a seal or some other area, so ignored it, but kept eye on oil level.
Only by taking the plastic cover off the engine (Volvo 20v Turbo black thing) did I work out it out.
The rubber seal in the oil cap is rock-hard and not sealing, so oil is running down onto top of engine, and going in spark plug bores etc.
Instead of once again the jaunt to a motor factor, and getting oil everywhere after cleaning it up, I nipped down to local plumbers merchant.
Took cap in and got a washer to fit, but kept the old one on there as the new one is thinner. Of course could have bought 3 washers but wanted to see if it cured the problem first.
Car has new leads and runs much better. I was hoping the discoloured plug would clear itself, or would need new plugs too. It would seem that after a few miles proper running car is now 100% without the need to replace plugs (yet).
To be honest I'll shop around for plugs and then get oil and filter changed too.
Cracking car.
Oil is actually leaking from oil cap on top of engine. Has been doing this for ages, but I thought it was a leak from a seal or some other area, so ignored it, but kept eye on oil level.
Only by taking the plastic cover off the engine (Volvo 20v Turbo black thing) did I work out it out.
The rubber seal in the oil cap is rock-hard and not sealing, so oil is running down onto top of engine, and going in spark plug bores etc.
Instead of once again the jaunt to a motor factor, and getting oil everywhere after cleaning it up, I nipped down to local plumbers merchant.
Took cap in and got a washer to fit, but kept the old one on there as the new one is thinner. Of course could have bought 3 washers but wanted to see if it cured the problem first.
Car has new leads and runs much better. I was hoping the discoloured plug would clear itself, or would need new plugs too. It would seem that after a few miles proper running car is now 100% without the need to replace plugs (yet).
To be honest I'll shop around for plugs and then get oil and filter changed too.
Cracking car.
BlimeyCharlie said:
Just a 'quick' update.
Oil is actually leaking from oil cap on top of engine. Has been doing this for ages, but I thought it was a leak from a seal or some other area, so ignored it, but kept eye on oil level.
Only by taking the plastic cover off the engine (Volvo 20v Turbo black thing) did I work out it out.
The rubber seal in the oil cap is rock-hard and not sealing, so oil is running down onto top of engine, and going in spark plug bores etc.
Instead of once again the jaunt to a motor factor, and getting oil everywhere after cleaning it up, I nipped down to local plumbers merchant.
Took cap in and got a washer to fit, but kept the old one on there as the new one is thinner. Of course could have bought 3 washers but wanted to see if it cured the problem first.
Car has new leads and runs much better. I was hoping the discoloured plug would clear itself, or would need new plugs too. It would seem that after a few miles proper running car is now 100% without the need to replace plugs (yet).
To be honest I'll shop around for plugs and then get oil and filter changed too.
Cracking car.
Buy new oil cap rubber seal - couple of quid from volvo - common as muck for them to leak on Volvo 5 pots -Oil is actually leaking from oil cap on top of engine. Has been doing this for ages, but I thought it was a leak from a seal or some other area, so ignored it, but kept eye on oil level.
Only by taking the plastic cover off the engine (Volvo 20v Turbo black thing) did I work out it out.
The rubber seal in the oil cap is rock-hard and not sealing, so oil is running down onto top of engine, and going in spark plug bores etc.
Instead of once again the jaunt to a motor factor, and getting oil everywhere after cleaning it up, I nipped down to local plumbers merchant.
Took cap in and got a washer to fit, but kept the old one on there as the new one is thinner. Of course could have bought 3 washers but wanted to see if it cured the problem first.
Car has new leads and runs much better. I was hoping the discoloured plug would clear itself, or would need new plugs too. It would seem that after a few miles proper running car is now 100% without the need to replace plugs (yet).
To be honest I'll shop around for plugs and then get oil and filter changed too.
Cracking car.
Miss-fire, I'd be checking the cam sensor:
Also be checking the Air flow meter as these are very prone problems.
I'd also check the vacuum purge valve on the emmisions system as these fail and cause erratic running too.
Good call on checking out the breather system - prone to blocking if run on crap or the wrong oil
Have you ever cleaned out the throttle body on the ETM?
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