850 T5 Pre-viewing question (miss-fire)

[Max M4X WW]

Hi all,

Off to see this later..

http://pistonheads.com/sales/3579542.htm

Seller has advised there is a slight miss-fire under hard acceleration. Does this sound like a simple case of needing plugs and leads or hiding a more serious problem.

What else should I be looking at apart from the usual suspension, brakes, smoke, cam-belt etc?

Thanks, Max

[Shadow R1]

Max M4X WW said:

Seller has advised there is a slight miss-fire under hard acceleration. Does this sound like a simple case of needing plugs and leads or hiding a more serious problem.

What else should I be looking at apart from the usual suspension, brakes, smoke, cam-belt etc?

Thanks, Max

Check the usual things you listed.

The misfire could be anything, plugs, leads, even a sensor gone south.

I have had a plug go bad in a S70 T5, that had a missfire when opening the taps.

The other S70R, seamed to hold back when opening the taps, that was found to be a spilt hose, very close to the turbo, we only found it by loading the system and using a smoke machine.

[y2blade]

could it be a "misdiagnosis" and it is actually a boost leak? as opposed to a "misfire"

[smack]

If it is due to leads, due to one failing, I would expect it to quickly get worse.

[Max M4X WW]

Thanks all, hopefully we can identify it/rule out plugs and leads if they have been documented as being changed.

Will see how it goes.

Thanks

[Rockatansky]

When I got my first V70 T5 it had a misfire under load, not too bad but noticeable.

That turned out to be caused by oil contamination in the distributor cap, so a new cap and rotor later and it was running very well.

The oil contamination was caused by the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) system being knackered. These engines are well known for the PCV system giving up at these sorts of years/miles. If you remove the dipstick with the engine running, and there seems to be a bit too much in the way of smoke/vapours being blown out - then chances are the PCV needs done. Parts are £80ish last time I checked, and it's a pretty easy job for the competent home mechanic. Nothing to worry about.

[Max M4X WW]

Ok, so 'we' bought it (my mate basically will not come away without buying a car no matter what its like!)

It has an oily dizzy cap and hesitates under load.

It also has a squeaky/rattly rear shock, presume this is the top mount.

Other that these two problems, an advised cv gatier, two bald tyres oh and the TRACS & ABS lights being on its mechanically sound.(!)

[Rockatansky]

The ABS/TRACS light will almost certainly be dry joints in the ABS ecu. It's a very common fault. There is a guy on ebay repairs them for £50.

Not sure about the rear noise, could well be a top mount. If so, they're very easy to change.

[Max M4X WW]

Rockatansky said:

The ABS/TRACS light will almost certainly be dry joints in the ABS ecu. It's a very common fault. There is a guy on ebay repairs them for £50.

Sounds good, will look out for that and try and get the rest sorted.

It had a RICA 280 map in 2005, how much power should this be giving in the real world?

[smack]

If the leads do need replacing (mine went at arount 130k), call up Braydon, who stock OEM leads, same as supplied by a dealer, without a Volvo box, (they are good for new and used parts for Volvos). First tried ones from ECP, and they were cheap junk, and only a few quid cheaper than OEM.

[Max M4X WW]

The ones in the ECP photo look exactly the same as the Braydon.

Will see what they look like once we have changed the Cap and Arm.

[Shadow R1]

If your buying parts, i get nearly everything from frf.
Genuine Volvo for not alot more then the pattern crap you find (ask how i know).

[Max M4X WW]

What is FRF?

[smack]

Max M4X WW said:

The ones in the ECP photo look exactly the same as the Braydon.

Will see what they look like once we have changed the Cap and Arm.

The ones ECP sold me in 2010 were branded as TDC, blue in colour, didn't fit well, and one lead was a dud. They where just cheap and rubbery.

Bougicord make the OEM ones (black and grey in colour), cost £41 at the time, and £130 if they had Volvo box.

[Max M4X WW]

Sounds great.

Just had a call from my mate, he says the dizzy was manky so is replacing that now.

He has bought two rear shock mounts and will probably get someone to fit them.

There doesn't seem to be a lot of oil in the car and the dipstick had a bit of mayonnaise round it, none under the filler cap though and the coolant is clean. I think its been sat for a while and only used for short journeys.

Probably needs an oil change, but what oil is suggested? ECP site says 10w40 or 5w40 Semi?

[Shadow R1]

Max M4X WW said:

What is FRF?

http://www.frfvolvo.co.uk/volvo-parts.asp

For the oil 10w 40 semi.

[smack]

Max M4X WW said:

There doesn't seem to be a lot of oil in the car and the dipstick had a bit of mayonnaise round it, none under the filler cap though and the coolant is clean. I think its been sat for a while and only used for short journeys.

Common during winter as the dipstick tube gets cold/condensation.

[Max M4X WW]

Thanks,

Just come off the phone to him again(!) and he's removed the (cracked) plug cover to find what I think is a bodged PCV system.

Where is the best place to get one of these and why does there seem to be an inlet manifold gasket included?

[Rockatansky]

If you need any genuine Volvo parts, give Simon and his colleagues a call at FRF Vovo in Swansea (as already suggested). They operate an excellent mail order service and give very generous discounts.

Full details here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showpost.php?p=90082...

As for leads, the genuine leads are manufactured by Bougicord and usually the cheapest place to get these is Parts for Volvos Online ( http://www.partsforvolvosonline.com/ )

A guide to doing the PCV can be found here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=469...

As for power, my V70 measured 250ish at the wheels after a Rica 304 remap so take from that what you will. The 280 will be less aggressive and probably nicer to drive I reckon.

[Max M4X WW]

The PCV change looks quite involved. A mornings work?

I did the same thing on an old 9-3 I had, but it didn't involve removing the manifold!

The bits relating to the turbo pipe look the most tricky to get to.