Discussion
Well, for anyone who may be interested, I've recently installed a Megasquirt system to my car mapping fuel and ignition. I choose this system over others for a few reasons; cost, back-up, references. I've spoke to a few people previously about it and got good reports also one of the other well known suppliers didn't even respond to my enquiry so I thought, 'what would happen if I had a problem?'
Now I'm more mechanically minded than electronic and when it came I was pretty megascared but had the invaluable help from a mate of mine [neal1980] who had fitted one to his car some time back. We [he] decided to go with the idea of our own version of plug 'n' play by using an old ecu casing and plugs, wiring into the back of the existing plug rather than chopping the loom about as much as was possible as he had done to his car with good results. Who was I to argue? and he's a wiz' on the computer thingy. After many late nights, much head scratching, numerous calls and e-mails to Phil [megasquirt] and Shaun [v8dev] who I have to say were both superb with their support and back up, Shaun even contcted me over the Easter holiday when he was at home to see if all was well, TOP BLOKE award to him.
Anyway, had a few issues, mainly down to a faulty/intermittant ignition relay contact which as it happens was just waiting to fail giving us the runaround with differing readings/results happening unbeknown to us everytime it was moved around in the mess in the footwell. A lot of hassle due to a crappy spade connnector in existing wiring. Anyway, got it started on base map and decided to get it mapped by V8 Dev'. Other issues arised due to a fault with the stepper motor wiring and an aftermarket [fse] fuel regulator which was giving a fluctuating pressure. [the latter I will NEVER buy or recommend again, feel free to contact me why] So, re-mapped via TPS taking stepper out of the equation. Consequently, the time it took was longer than anticipated and so more expensive.
The results? It seems to do exactly what Phil [MS] claims it will. The switch from different ignition maps on the move is seemless which is a big bonus for nitrous use as would be for other forced induction I would imagine. Not quite out of the woods yet with an earthing issue to sort but so far,,,, very good.
Phil [MS] is an absolute mine of information and constantly willing to help even a relative novice like myself. He delivered the product when he said he would and also delivered on back-up, top bloke.
Shaun @ V8DEV I hope is paid well as he was totally superb in his patience, help and humour, top bloke.
Neal1980, my mate, cider drinker, computer wiz' and top bloke.
Another mention has to go to a chap called Peter Humphries [greenV8S] who over time has voluntarally given me much good advice and support and is what this forum is all about, another top bloke.
Beginning to sound like an oscar speech now so I'll phuck off.
Bottom line; Good product, great back up, if you're thinking about this kind of upgrade don't be scared, do it!
But, if you do, follow the instructions to the letter and make sure EVERYTHING is in good working order BEFORE you start, I thought mine was, but wasn't and it could've saved a lot of time and money. You could of course take it somewhere to install it for you, but where's the 'fun' in that?
PS; forgot to mention Rob' who did the mapping
Now I'm more mechanically minded than electronic and when it came I was pretty megascared but had the invaluable help from a mate of mine [neal1980] who had fitted one to his car some time back. We [he] decided to go with the idea of our own version of plug 'n' play by using an old ecu casing and plugs, wiring into the back of the existing plug rather than chopping the loom about as much as was possible as he had done to his car with good results. Who was I to argue? and he's a wiz' on the computer thingy. After many late nights, much head scratching, numerous calls and e-mails to Phil [megasquirt] and Shaun [v8dev] who I have to say were both superb with their support and back up, Shaun even contcted me over the Easter holiday when he was at home to see if all was well, TOP BLOKE award to him.
Anyway, had a few issues, mainly down to a faulty/intermittant ignition relay contact which as it happens was just waiting to fail giving us the runaround with differing readings/results happening unbeknown to us everytime it was moved around in the mess in the footwell. A lot of hassle due to a crappy spade connnector in existing wiring. Anyway, got it started on base map and decided to get it mapped by V8 Dev'. Other issues arised due to a fault with the stepper motor wiring and an aftermarket [fse] fuel regulator which was giving a fluctuating pressure. [the latter I will NEVER buy or recommend again, feel free to contact me why] So, re-mapped via TPS taking stepper out of the equation. Consequently, the time it took was longer than anticipated and so more expensive.
The results? It seems to do exactly what Phil [MS] claims it will. The switch from different ignition maps on the move is seemless which is a big bonus for nitrous use as would be for other forced induction I would imagine. Not quite out of the woods yet with an earthing issue to sort but so far,,,, very good.
Phil [MS] is an absolute mine of information and constantly willing to help even a relative novice like myself. He delivered the product when he said he would and also delivered on back-up, top bloke.
Shaun @ V8DEV I hope is paid well as he was totally superb in his patience, help and humour, top bloke.
Neal1980, my mate, cider drinker, computer wiz' and top bloke.
Another mention has to go to a chap called Peter Humphries [greenV8S] who over time has voluntarally given me much good advice and support and is what this forum is all about, another top bloke.
Beginning to sound like an oscar speech now so I'll phuck off.
Bottom line; Good product, great back up, if you're thinking about this kind of upgrade don't be scared, do it!
But, if you do, follow the instructions to the letter and make sure EVERYTHING is in good working order BEFORE you start, I thought mine was, but wasn't and it could've saved a lot of time and money. You could of course take it somewhere to install it for you, but where's the 'fun' in that?
PS; forgot to mention Rob' who did the mapping
Edited by macdeb on Sunday 2nd May 19:54
Edited by macdeb on Sunday 2nd May 19:57
Edited by macdeb on Sunday 2nd May 20:05
Edited by macdeb on Sunday 2nd May 20:24
Edited by macdeb on Tuesday 4th May 20:32
What was your verdict on the overall drive ability compared to the manky old 14CUX.
Any noticeable difference in the dreaded "snatching" and the bloody awful "slow to adjust the idle" stepper motor?
I'm just at the point of ordering my Megasquirt ECU as I have built a new loom from scratch to use
VW Audi coil packs with built in igniters, Tech-edge Wide Band lambda sensor and a 36-1 trigger wheel and doing away with the stepper motor in preference to a PWM idle valve.
I decided on making a new engine bay loom because of the problems you have mentioned with poor electrical connectors as I have suffered loads of hassel which was found to be the AFM connector and at least one injector and the fuel temp sensor connector which were basically rotted away.
Total cost for the loom were about 50 quid but at least I know it's all new. Now to fit it!!!!
Any tips/snags or work-arounds gratefully received.
Paul.
Any noticeable difference in the dreaded "snatching" and the bloody awful "slow to adjust the idle" stepper motor?
I'm just at the point of ordering my Megasquirt ECU as I have built a new loom from scratch to use
VW Audi coil packs with built in igniters, Tech-edge Wide Band lambda sensor and a 36-1 trigger wheel and doing away with the stepper motor in preference to a PWM idle valve.
I decided on making a new engine bay loom because of the problems you have mentioned with poor electrical connectors as I have suffered loads of hassel which was found to be the AFM connector and at least one injector and the fuel temp sensor connector which were basically rotted away.
Total cost for the loom were about 50 quid but at least I know it's all new. Now to fit it!!!!
Any tips/snags or work-arounds gratefully received.
Paul.
Edited by paulathome on Sunday 2nd May 22:08
paulathome said:
What was your verdict on the overall drive ability compared to the manky old 14CUX.
Any noticeable difference in the dreaded "snatching" and the bloody awful "slow to adjust the idle" stepper motor?
I'm just at the point of ordering my Megasquirt ECU as I have built a new loom from scratch to use
VW Audi coil packs with built in igniters, Tech-edge Wide Band lambda sensor and a 36-1 trigger wheel and doing away with the stepper motor in preference to a PWM idle valve.
I decided on making a new engine bay loom because of the problems you have mentioned with poor electrical connectors as I have suffered loads of hassel which was found to be the AFM connector and at least one injector and the fuel temp sensor connector which were basically rotted away.
Total cost for the loom were about 50 quid but at least I know it's all new. Now to fit it!!!!
Any tips/snags or work-arounds gratefully received.
Paul.
The main thing to remember if your making your own loom is the grounding. Its critical that all grounds go to the engine block and that they are multiple grounds, not just one wire back to the block, but 4, 5, 6, etc. The ECUs and looms I supply come with 4 grounds for the fueling side and a seperate one for the ignition if your driving coils from the ECU. Never connect the grounds to the chassis and some to the engine and some to the battery, ensure ALL of them go back to the block. Have a read of this file: Any noticeable difference in the dreaded "snatching" and the bloody awful "slow to adjust the idle" stepper motor?
I'm just at the point of ordering my Megasquirt ECU as I have built a new loom from scratch to use
VW Audi coil packs with built in igniters, Tech-edge Wide Band lambda sensor and a 36-1 trigger wheel and doing away with the stepper motor in preference to a PWM idle valve.
I decided on making a new engine bay loom because of the problems you have mentioned with poor electrical connectors as I have suffered loads of hassel which was found to be the AFM connector and at least one injector and the fuel temp sensor connector which were basically rotted away.
Total cost for the loom were about 50 quid but at least I know it's all new. Now to fit it!!!!
Any tips/snags or work-arounds gratefully received.
Paul.
Edited by paulathome on Sunday 2nd May 22:08
http://www.extraefi.co.uk/wiring_basics.html
If adding a wideband lambda, ensure you run both grounds seperatly to the engine block too.
Non of it is complex, its just basic ground loop rules, or just following instructions, so dont worry too much.
Your COPs, with built in ignitors, will need a signal ground wire running from the ecu and kept away from the main grounds, dont connect the signal ground and the main ground together and run them as a single wire, also add the 1 to 10uF capacitor to the COPs 12V feed, theres info on the VW COPs on my site:
http://www.extraefi.co.uk/cop_ignitor.htm
cheers
Phil
Edited by daxtojeiro on Sunday 2nd May 22:28
Thanks for the info Phil,
I have studied your web site now for the best part of 12 months and very informative it is too. I'm not using COP but the VAG coil packs so require 2 which I got at a very good price of Ebay for a pair. (now need to make a bracket) As they only require a 5 volt drive from the ECU at a very low current I thought it was a good choice to keep the noise down in the engine bay with it being a fibre glass car. (compared to ford directly driven coil packs)
Yes I completely understand about earth loops and my loom has been constructed with this in mind as have the wide band lambda sensor and it's integration.
I was originally going to use an old 14cux ecu case and fit the Megasquirt inside, but after the performance I had last winter with various loom connector problems I thought new cable and mini timer connectors and cable conduit were the way to go for best reliability.
I will be talking to you soon.
Paul.
I have studied your web site now for the best part of 12 months and very informative it is too. I'm not using COP but the VAG coil packs so require 2 which I got at a very good price of Ebay for a pair. (now need to make a bracket) As they only require a 5 volt drive from the ECU at a very low current I thought it was a good choice to keep the noise down in the engine bay with it being a fibre glass car. (compared to ford directly driven coil packs)
Yes I completely understand about earth loops and my loom has been constructed with this in mind as have the wide band lambda sensor and it's integration.
I was originally going to use an old 14cux ecu case and fit the Megasquirt inside, but after the performance I had last winter with various loom connector problems I thought new cable and mini timer connectors and cable conduit were the way to go for best reliability.
I will be talking to you soon.
Paul.
paulathome said:
What was your verdict on the overall drive ability compared to the manky old 14CUX.
Any noticeable difference in the dreaded "snatching" and the bloody awful "slow to adjust the idle" stepper motor?
I'm just at the point of ordering my Megasquirt ECU as I have built a new loom from scratch to use
VW Audi coil packs with built in igniters, Tech-edge Wide Band lambda sensor and a 36-1 trigger wheel and doing away with the stepper motor in preference to a PWM idle valve.
I decided on making a new engine bay loom because of the problems you have mentioned with poor electrical connectors as I have suffered loads of hassel which was found to be the AFM connector and at least one injector and the fuel temp sensor connector which were basically rotted away.
Total cost for the loom were about 50 quid but at least I know it's all new. Now to fit it!!!!
Any tips/snags or work-arounds gratefully received.
Paul.
I can fully understand your reasoning for making a new loom, if I had the knowledge at the time I would've done the same. the existing wiring was where most of my problems came, especially the on/off/on connection with the relay connector giving us a right runaround. [we even made an independant temporary loom for the injectors whilst trying to fault find]Any noticeable difference in the dreaded "snatching" and the bloody awful "slow to adjust the idle" stepper motor?
I'm just at the point of ordering my Megasquirt ECU as I have built a new loom from scratch to use
VW Audi coil packs with built in igniters, Tech-edge Wide Band lambda sensor and a 36-1 trigger wheel and doing away with the stepper motor in preference to a PWM idle valve.
I decided on making a new engine bay loom because of the problems you have mentioned with poor electrical connectors as I have suffered loads of hassel which was found to be the AFM connector and at least one injector and the fuel temp sensor connector which were basically rotted away.
Total cost for the loom were about 50 quid but at least I know it's all new. Now to fit it!!!!
Any tips/snags or work-arounds gratefully received.
Paul.
Edited by paulathome on Sunday 2nd May 22:08
Driveability is improved as when I now floor it, it responds instantly, whereas there was a slight bogging down/hesitation before so had to be gentle with the throttle [bit like with flat-slide carbs' on a bike] but, not anymore. I have still to solve a problem with the stepper motor but think we know what that is, so not using it at the moment. [also it makes an audible hiss at the front without it that sounds like it would suck in a small child, which is cool] I really think that with your own loom you will have less problems than we, if you do you can always contact me if I've experienced anything similar though Phil is usually on hand. I also have the 'tech-edge' wideband sensor but for some reason we can't get a reading from it on the lap-top. It calibrates as it should and gives a constant red LED saying all is well, but it isn't [any ideas, anyone?]
Anyhow, keep us posted and if I can help in anyway, I will.
Edited by macdeb on Monday 3rd May 18:56
Edited by macdeb on Monday 3rd May 18:56
paulathome said:
Thanks for the info Phil,
I have studied your web site now for the best part of 12 months and very informative it is too. I'm not using COP but the VAG coil packs so require 2 which I got at a very good price of Ebay for a pair. (now need to make a bracket) As they only require a 5 volt drive from the ECU at a very low current I thought it was a good choice to keep the noise down in the engine bay with it being a fibre glass car. (compared to ford directly driven coil packs)
Yes I completely understand about earth loops and my loom has been constructed with this in mind as have the wide band lambda sensor and it's integration.
I was originally going to use an old 14cux ecu case and fit the Megasquirt inside, but after the performance I had last winter with various loom connector problems I thought new cable and mini timer connectors and cable conduit were the way to go for best reliability.
I will be talking to you soon.
Paul.
The VW Coil packs are very good, theres info on my site for those too I have studied your web site now for the best part of 12 months and very informative it is too. I'm not using COP but the VAG coil packs so require 2 which I got at a very good price of Ebay for a pair. (now need to make a bracket) As they only require a 5 volt drive from the ECU at a very low current I thought it was a good choice to keep the noise down in the engine bay with it being a fibre glass car. (compared to ford directly driven coil packs)
Yes I completely understand about earth loops and my loom has been constructed with this in mind as have the wide band lambda sensor and it's integration.
I was originally going to use an old 14cux ecu case and fit the Megasquirt inside, but after the performance I had last winter with various loom connector problems I thought new cable and mini timer connectors and cable conduit were the way to go for best reliability.
I will be talking to you soon.
Paul.
The Ford coil packs are increadably reliable though, especially the Gen1 version, I've only had one fail and that was the one on my test bed that I had thrashed with dwell tests, etc.
Noise issues have been sorted now as we developed it all we have learnt to use resistive plugs, the suppressors on the coils, multiple ground looms back to the block, etc ,etc.
Phil
Just seen this thread!
Well done Mac i knew you would get it sorted.
Have you any numbers to report?
Have you set up the nitrous map with a little retard? (no jokes please)
I will be making my order from Phil very soon.
Also... will you be coming along to York on August 8th and BNG in Sept?
Well done Mac i knew you would get it sorted.
Have you any numbers to report?
Have you set up the nitrous map with a little retard? (no jokes please)
I will be making my order from Phil very soon.
Also... will you be coming along to York on August 8th and BNG in Sept?
dbv8 said:
Just seen this thread!
Well done Mac i knew you would get it sorted.
Have you any numbers to report?
Have you set up the nitrous map with a little retard? (no jokes please)
I will be making my order from Phil very soon.
Also... will you be coming along to York on August 8th and BNG in Sept?
Hello bloke, no numbers yet but feels like a lot. Nitrous map has 8 degrees of retard at WOT and you don't notice the switching from one to another, it's done via arming switch rather than throttle trigger switch so as not to keep the ecu switching between gears. Wont be at York as I have some work then and I need it at moment as haven't worked since Feb', it's dire out there at moment. Well done Mac i knew you would get it sorted.
Have you any numbers to report?
Have you set up the nitrous map with a little retard? (no jokes please)
I will be making my order from Phil very soon.
Also... will you be coming along to York on August 8th and BNG in Sept?
Get it fitted mate it's a must-have.
Gassing Station | TVR Major Mods | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff