sbf 5.0 302 into chim/griff on standard t5 box

[garagebench]

HI ,
Has anyone thought of putting a 5.0 ford small block into a chimaera or griff
using a standard t5 box and a mustang bellhousing
as its a fairly narrow small block v8 ,
Has anyone done it or tried to ?.

Edited by garagebench on Wednesday 14th October 19:00

[Slow M]

Is That chassis very similar to the Tuscan race cars?
If yes, Lawfield Engineering did it for PW.
http://s441.photobucket.com/albums/qq138/lawfield1...
B.

[garagebench]

HI ,
yes based on tuscan i believe,
i had forgot about pw last tvr,
has anyone put one in a road going chim or griff ?
cheers

[FOT Fast]

I have one in my Tuscan instead of the SP6. I would have thought it would be a doddle!!! Mines bolted straight on to the T5 box and uses the standard Mustang T5 bellhousing. Looking back I should have gone for a 347...that would have been more fun!! Although, then you probably need to uprate the T5 or get a better gearbox.

[grahamw48]

In the states it's been put into the 280i Wedge too, and pretty straightforward apparently.

[Slow M]

FOT Fast said:

I have one in my Tuscan instead of the SP6. I would have thought it would be a doddle!!! Mines bolted straight on to the T5 box and uses the standard Mustang T5 bellhousing. Looking back I should have gone for a 347...that would have been more fun!! Although, then you probably need to uprate the T5 or get a better gearbox.

Most of the 347s are not high durability motors. The combinations of parts that were available when people first did these were such that the oil ring land and wrist pin hole overlapped (no support for the oil ring) and these engines showed poor durability. this engine combination became popular because of requirements in various racing classes where the stock block dimensions had to be retained but stroking was allowed.
Agree w/ your thoughts on trnsmission.
Most Tremec boxes require a larger hole in the back of the bellhousing.
B

[AntJC]

Bernard,

Your comments re 347's makes interesting reading as it’s a route I'm looking at going down.

Have these early issues been overcome now, or are there any manufacturers parts to steer clear of.

My initial thoughts were Eagle Crank & matching rods with Keith Black pistons mated to a later roller cam 302 block (on standard bore). Other options would be to import parts directly from the states from the likes of SCAT etc.

Antony

[Slow M]

AntJC said:

Bernard,

Your comments re 347's makes interesting reading as it’s a route I'm looking at going down.

Have these early issues been overcome now, or are there any manufacturers parts to steer clear of.
...
Antony

Antony,

I'm a little foggy on if this has been resolved for street applications.
Some of the drag racers don't need a lot of space between the wrist pin and the top of the piston because they only use one compression ring and one oil scraper.
IIRC the long rod design had to do with rod angularity and trying to get max power.

Built mine as a 331 to avoid the problem.
8.206" deck height, 5.3" rod length, 3.25" stroke crank, .030" over bore.
Oil ring land IS supported
331 can build 500+ reliable HP with a wet sump and a carburettor. (STOCK BLOCK!)
Probably a bit more with EFI/IGN & dry sump.

B

[Slow M]

Forgot to say that if I were to EVER do this again, I'd call DSS and specify the exact engine I wanted.
From everything I've read, they're the best!!!

This would have saved me huge amounts of aggravation, literally hundreds of hours of research on topics I care little about AND given me a person to ask questions when I need to(like now).

B.

[AntJC]

Thanks for the web site link Bernard.

I'll drop them a mail in the next day or two to see what they recommend bearing in mind the header restrictions we both face with M chassis. I note they have a sale on at the moment for their 331 & 347 kits. Wonder how much shipping back to here would cost.

I'm thinking of using Sanderson block hugging headers as per a post I found on here recently, so need to factor the torque & HP losses but using them, but I will install alloy heads to keep the overall engine weight down.

Antony

[Slow M]

AntJC said:

Thanks for the web site link Bernard.
...
I'm thinking of using Sanderson block hugging headers as per a post I found on here recently, so need to factor the torque & HP losses but using them, but I will install alloy heads to keep the overall engine weight down.

Antony

Antony,
You're welcome!
If you don't order a complete engine from DSS, research the heads you will want to buy first, as well as the cam so they can recommend pistons with the right fly-cuts for valve relief.
Also, get a cracked or holed donor block (read CHEAP!) so that you can lay it in place and test fit parts to determine the final engine/transmission location.
Otherwise, lay your final engine in place.
Mine is so far back (also in an M frame) that there is NO WAY the Sandersons would fit. Another reason for this is the exhaust port location on the AFR heads I'm using.
B