"Running in" a rebuild...

[Phil_Edge]

Hi,

I'm in the process of running in a rebuilt AJP V8 from Austec, and wanted to post something to try and gather some opinions and thoughts on the best way(s) to ensure I run her in, in the best way possible...

She's had a top-to-bottom rebuild, and the info I have been given to date is as follows:

Running in?

- 1000 miles need to be put onto the new engine
- Up to 4500 rmp MAX
- Start engine "and go" - ie. do not leave to idle
- Use gears, do not sit (eg on M-way) at constant revs
- Prefer higher gears to lower ones when putting load on engine so as not to 'labour' the engine (eg. change down for up-hills)
- Keep v.close eye on oil & water levels
- Oil used for running in (only) is lower grade than usual (so it breaks down and bedding in happens more effectively)
- Burning oil is expected

I've been getting through a lot of oil, checked, and been told it's pretty "usual", especially because its low grade stuff... it breaks down more easily.

Welcome any input though, so I can make the most of the opportunity!

[GreenV8S]

Phil_Edge said:

Welcome any input though, so I can make the most of the opportunity!

Regardless of any other advice you get, I suggest you stick to the advice from Austec. Firstly because they're pretty certain to be right. Secondly because even if they were wrong, you can't expect them to take responsibility for problems that develope if you haven't complied with their running-in instructions.

[JonRB]

When running in a similar rebuild on a S6, Racing Green stipulated something similar, only with a rev limit of around 3000rpm for the first 1000 miles and then stepped rev limit rising by 500rpm every 250 miles or so I think it was. The running in took 2000 miles in all.

I'd also agree with Pete (GreenV8s). In fact, I'd go further and say that publicly asking for an alternative running-in schedule on a website that Austec are known to read is pretty retarded really.

Edited by JonRB on Monday 19th January 13:52

[rev-erend]

Their advice sounds spot on to me..

[Phil_Edge]

Yes - wasn't expecting it would be massively contrary.

I'm staying on the conservative side of the revs too...

My only worry is the oil that she's burning!

Checked she's not leaking when parked - so it's genuine burn on a run... so says the black numberplate!

[rev-erend]

It should burn oil when new .. if it did not then you would be worried that some numpty had put in fully synthetic and the rights would not bed in properly.

If you want a read about running in - these 2 sites look good :

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm

[Phil_Edge]

Thanks! Thats seriously reassuring

rev-erend said:

It should burn oil when new .. if it did not then you would be worried that some numpty had put in fully synthetic and the rights would not bed in properly.

If you want a read about running in - these 2 sites look good :

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/runin.htm

[QuiteQuietCerb]

just to throw a spanner in the works when i had mine rebuilt i was told not to exceed 3krpm for the first k

[350Matt]

a general good rule is:

1st 500 miles no more than 1/2 load 1/2 revs
then for next 500 miles 2/3rd load 2/3 revs
then past 1000 miles full wallop change oil
Then change oil for good stuff 2K miles in.

But I'd stuck with what austec have told you so as not invalidate the warrenty

[Phil_Edge]

NOTE: After finishing the initial 1000 miles period... testing back at the shop revealed a fault with the oil seals on the heads, so there WAS a problem with it burning oil.

For the record - around 1L / 100 miles is too much - despite the fact that it will burn more than expected, this is too much.

Seals being replaced - so that should resolve without having affected the main seals etc... so shouldn't be a major issue, just a delay.

[rev-erend]

Phil_Edge said:

NOTE: After finishing the initial 1000 miles period... testing back at the shop revealed a fault with the oil seals on the heads, so there WAS a problem with it burning oil.

For the record - around 1L / 100 miles is too much - despite the fact that it will burn more than expected, this is too much.

Seals being replaced - so that should resolve without having affected the main seals etc... so shouldn't be a major issue, just a delay.

I presume you mean a valve stem oil seal .. as opposed to a piston oil control ring or some other gasket arount the cam / valve train cover.

[Phil_Edge]

Hmm... afraid I'm outta my depth, but, believe it was a control ring....

Thoughts?

rev-erend said:

Phil_Edge said:

NOTE: After finishing the initial 1000 miles period... testing back at the shop revealed a fault with the oil seals on the heads, so there WAS a problem with it burning oil.

For the record - around 1L / 100 miles is too much - despite the fact that it will burn more than expected, this is too much.

Seals being replaced - so that should resolve without having affected the main seals etc... so shouldn't be a major issue, just a delay.

I presume you mean a valve stem oil seal .. as opposed to a piston oil control ring or some other gasket arount the cam / valve train cover.

[richtvr]

don't forget that under reving will glase the bores lol