Discussion
I am just toying irh Ideas at the moment,
Thinking of trying to build a better head, but using a Rover casting, I have Ideas, One question is if I use Ti valves, I know the guides and seats have to be changed for either Ti or Copper Berylinium?sp, are there any other options, I dont fancy the CBr as its a Toxic metal, and I dont have the right equipment to machine it safely in my workshop,
another thought is plug and re drill the head bolt holes then move the heads up 8-10mm to centralise the valves in the bore, I run TVR Challenge valves at the moment, but wondering if there would be any advantage in going bigger, also bearing in mind where the valves sit at the moment are shrouded by the bore, on my heads I can see the burn witness marks.
I already run a split downdraft manifolds, so the inlets are not a problem,
Exhaust ports, which are the real problem with the Rover heads, They may be sortable without extensive welding by using a method Jack Roush tried on his Cleveland heads,
http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/thread/10701...
The plates could be bolted from the underside, and thru the side to gain a good fit to the heads, I dont see why the initial trial could not be made in MDF, prototyped and then cast, which would save lots of work in porting time, which would allow me to lift the exhaust ports and improve the flow, and have the added advantage of making the ports match SBF headers allowing for a good choice of manifolds,
I suppose the question is WHY? especially when Merlins will be available to everybody soon???? well, I suppose it because I can, and buying Merlins or Wildcats is easy!!!
Thinking of trying to build a better head, but using a Rover casting, I have Ideas, One question is if I use Ti valves, I know the guides and seats have to be changed for either Ti or Copper Berylinium?sp, are there any other options, I dont fancy the CBr as its a Toxic metal, and I dont have the right equipment to machine it safely in my workshop,
another thought is plug and re drill the head bolt holes then move the heads up 8-10mm to centralise the valves in the bore, I run TVR Challenge valves at the moment, but wondering if there would be any advantage in going bigger, also bearing in mind where the valves sit at the moment are shrouded by the bore, on my heads I can see the burn witness marks.
I already run a split downdraft manifolds, so the inlets are not a problem,
Exhaust ports, which are the real problem with the Rover heads, They may be sortable without extensive welding by using a method Jack Roush tried on his Cleveland heads,
http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/thread/10701...
The plates could be bolted from the underside, and thru the side to gain a good fit to the heads, I dont see why the initial trial could not be made in MDF, prototyped and then cast, which would save lots of work in porting time, which would allow me to lift the exhaust ports and improve the flow, and have the added advantage of making the ports match SBF headers allowing for a good choice of manifolds,
I suppose the question is WHY? especially when Merlins will be available to everybody soon???? well, I suppose it because I can, and buying Merlins or Wildcats is easy!!!
Have you considered skimmimg the head on a plane to change the incline of the exhaust ports, I would think you could take a few degrees off without adversely affecting studs/location & valvetrain geometry?
Will not offsetting the guides achieve what you want, with the obvious valvetrain changes required.
Completely lightening the valve gear would seem very sensible to me, and I love the idea of roller cams
Will not offsetting the guides achieve what you want, with the obvious valvetrain changes required.
Completely lightening the valve gear would seem very sensible to me, and I love the idea of roller cams
Hi
Colsibro copper alloy works fine with Ti valves, however I'd wouldn't use Ti valves on road car as when they go the valve head falls off and bang.
You can make a much lighter steel valve than what's in there in any case, take a look in the Xceldyne, del west & ferrea catalogues and see what you can find
Yes moving the valve centres is a good idea as even the std size is horribly shrouded,
Go for it I'd say but you might want a set of merlins halfway through all the broddling ....
Matt
Colsibro copper alloy works fine with Ti valves, however I'd wouldn't use Ti valves on road car as when they go the valve head falls off and bang.
You can make a much lighter steel valve than what's in there in any case, take a look in the Xceldyne, del west & ferrea catalogues and see what you can find
Yes moving the valve centres is a good idea as even the std size is horribly shrouded,
Go for it I'd say but you might want a set of merlins halfway through all the broddling ....
Matt
Fair enough, the thing is with Ti you have to know what stresses you're putting into the valve train and measure harmonics etc. so you know how close to sail to the edge.
I'm afraid that Ti in road cars is usually a gimmick as you have to add material to de-stress it but which time a decent steel part of equivalent strength is the same weight.
In race engines the valves are regularly replaced so you can run a skinny Ti valve without failure.
I'm afraid that Ti in road cars is usually a gimmick as you have to add material to de-stress it but which time a decent steel part of equivalent strength is the same weight.
In race engines the valves are regularly replaced so you can run a skinny Ti valve without failure.
Gassing Station | TVR Major Mods | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff