4 into 1 manifolds for a RV8
Discussion
OK - my next little project is to make a pair of 4 into 1 manifolds.. not really commercially available apart from bespoke and that would cost a big fortune and need the car trailered miles and miles..
So far - I have all the bits needed .. just a picture of some of the bits I have.. supplied at very reasonable cost from JP exhausts but when you tot it all up it's pretty pricey (£320 in pipe and bends alone) - Just a few of the bits shown below :
The spec : 45mm (1 3/4 inch) pipe (wedge usually has 1 1/2 inch) 4 into 1 with a 24 inch primary. The collector is from the USA and fairly cheap and the outlet is 3 inch but I feel this is too big - so I'm sleeving that down to 2 1/2 inch - with the 2 banks joining together as a 3 inch pipe. I've already prototyped it with plastic flexible pipe and it's do able and is possible with the engine mounts / starter motor in place.
Some items need fetteling .. like the gaskets which partly shroud the manifold plate.. engine builder suggested high temp silicon for the gasket but I've too chicken for that approach - I feel that it will need tightening every week and may blow easily.
Also picked up a smaller more portable gas bottle - this one only weights 29kg.. and a load of stainless welding wire.
Once all that is done - then I need to sort out the silencing...
I'm thinking along the lines of 24 inch long cherry bomb.
I'll post pictures when done..
So far - I have all the bits needed .. just a picture of some of the bits I have.. supplied at very reasonable cost from JP exhausts but when you tot it all up it's pretty pricey (£320 in pipe and bends alone) - Just a few of the bits shown below :
The spec : 45mm (1 3/4 inch) pipe (wedge usually has 1 1/2 inch) 4 into 1 with a 24 inch primary. The collector is from the USA and fairly cheap and the outlet is 3 inch but I feel this is too big - so I'm sleeving that down to 2 1/2 inch - with the 2 banks joining together as a 3 inch pipe. I've already prototyped it with plastic flexible pipe and it's do able and is possible with the engine mounts / starter motor in place.
Some items need fetteling .. like the gaskets which partly shroud the manifold plate.. engine builder suggested high temp silicon for the gasket but I've too chicken for that approach - I feel that it will need tightening every week and may blow easily.
Also picked up a smaller more portable gas bottle - this one only weights 29kg.. and a load of stainless welding wire.
Once all that is done - then I need to sort out the silencing...
I'm thinking along the lines of 24 inch long cherry bomb.
I'll post pictures when done..
rev-erend said:
.. like the gaskets which partly shroud the manifold plate.. engine builder suggested high temp silicon for the gasket but I've too chicken for that approach - I feel that it will need tightening every week and may blow easily.
I don't agree, if the head / gasket / flange is smoothed internally there is far less chance of it blowing IMHO. stainless_steve said:
Slow M said:
Nice wedge!
You may want to check if you wouldn't be better off with 1 5/8" rather than 1 3/4".
Seems awfully large for an RV8.
B.
You may want to check if you wouldn't be better off with 1 5/8" rather than 1 3/4".
Seems awfully large for an RV8.
B.
It's an awfully large engine with wildcat heads
good luck with it Alan
1 3/4 inch is actually what the Griff and Chimps use too.
WOW!
I didn't think the RV8 could go that large.
Just looked at the Wildcat heads on line. -NICE!
What stage Wildcat heads do you have?
What sort of rev limit will you use?
What intake manifold?
What cam?
Just saw that they're actually doing a 6.0 liter!
I think you are going to have a lot of fun!!!!!!!!
B.
I didn't think the RV8 could go that large.
Just looked at the Wildcat heads on line. -NICE!
What stage Wildcat heads do you have?
What sort of rev limit will you use?
What intake manifold?
What cam?
Just saw that they're actually doing a 6.0 liter!
I think you are going to have a lot of fun!!!!!!!!
B.
Al,
I wonder if you've followed Steve Green's drag car over the years?
His latest incarnation using some Wildcat heads:
http://sgracing.co.uk/Pages/Car%20Spec.html
http://sgracing.co.uk/Pages/Pictures.html
I've followed him since his first RV8 in an all steel red MK1 Cortina in the 80's.
Stick shift and refused to run wheelie bars which made for some interesting launches when the rear slicks hooked up when track conditions were good.
Phil (still waiting to collect my car de Cadenet
420 SEAC
I wonder if you've followed Steve Green's drag car over the years?
His latest incarnation using some Wildcat heads:
http://sgracing.co.uk/Pages/Car%20Spec.html
http://sgracing.co.uk/Pages/Pictures.html
I've followed him since his first RV8 in an all steel red MK1 Cortina in the 80's.
Stick shift and refused to run wheelie bars which made for some interesting launches when the rear slicks hooked up when track conditions were good.
Phil (still waiting to collect my car de Cadenet
420 SEAC
At that price I think most would go Chevy power.
Is the RV8 drag series still running where you 'had' to run the Rovers?
I have a friend in the US who's using some Ford heads of mine in a dyno shootout. He has a Triumph TR8 with some trick parts. He recently wrote to me:
If you need any thing for that Rover from the States, let me know. You've got most of the good bits over there but there are some things here that are likely rare over there. An example would be the Buick 300 aluminum heads. They bolt on the Rover V8 and have larger ports and valves. I had a set ported with 1.775"
intake and 1.5" exhaust valves that flowed at 200 CFM intake and 150 CFM exhaust which is a lot better than any Rover heads we've flowed. I've got a spare set or two around. We also have the T&D and Harland Sharp roller rockers and a few other bits.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________
Knowing Dan these would only be a few hundred dollars a piece, a slight difference in price to the Wildcat's and I'd be surprised if they flow that much better.
Phil
420 SEAC
Is the RV8 drag series still running where you 'had' to run the Rovers?
I have a friend in the US who's using some Ford heads of mine in a dyno shootout. He has a Triumph TR8 with some trick parts. He recently wrote to me:
If you need any thing for that Rover from the States, let me know. You've got most of the good bits over there but there are some things here that are likely rare over there. An example would be the Buick 300 aluminum heads. They bolt on the Rover V8 and have larger ports and valves. I had a set ported with 1.775"
intake and 1.5" exhaust valves that flowed at 200 CFM intake and 150 CFM exhaust which is a lot better than any Rover heads we've flowed. I've got a spare set or two around. We also have the T&D and Harland Sharp roller rockers and a few other bits.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________
Knowing Dan these would only be a few hundred dollars a piece, a slight difference in price to the Wildcat's and I'd be surprised if they flow that much better.
Phil
420 SEAC
The RV8 vs Chevy is not really a fair contest, as is new vs s/h parts from the states but fair play if you can get them a lot cheaper.
The wildcat prices actually compare well with just reworked head prices and he sources many of his parts from the states - which until a while ago were very reasonably priced.
Also when people start on the bespoke better than everyone else engines - then prices sure do start to have no limit..
The wildcat prices actually compare well with just reworked head prices and he sources many of his parts from the states - which until a while ago were very reasonably priced.
Also when people start on the bespoke better than everyone else engines - then prices sure do start to have no limit..
Well finally they are more or less finished and fitted ..
boy are they tight.
Drivers side:
Passenger side :
Just got to make the link pipe between the system and headers, install 2 * lambda 25mm holes and fittings and finally get it all coated in heat proof paint. Camcoat being the favourite at present.
boy are they tight.
Drivers side:
Passenger side :
Just got to make the link pipe between the system and headers, install 2 * lambda 25mm holes and fittings and finally get it all coated in heat proof paint. Camcoat being the favourite at present.
Gassing Station | TVR Major Mods | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff