Emerald K6 setup and mapping help

Emerald K6 setup and mapping help

Author
Discussion

Else

Original Poster:

795 posts

245 months

Tuesday 1st January 2019
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Hi all.

Quick question to any Emerald experts out there (Jools!). Why does it fire one or more coils when you power it up? Sometimes get a backfire through the inlet or exhaust before even attempting to start the engine?

Else

magpies

5,145 posts

189 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2019
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I'm about to purchase a K6+ to run a Jag AJ30 I'm putting in my S1 (Removed the cossy v6)

so interested in any experiences.

Once upand running I will be taking it down to their rolling road though.

phazed

21,994 posts

211 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2019
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Hopefully Joolz will respond.

I personally have more of an idea as how to manufacture shredded wheat.......

spitfire4v8

4,017 posts

188 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2019
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It shouldn't fire anything when powered up except the initial fuel pump prime.
Where did you buy from and do you know if they put you a RV8 map and Configuration file in or have you tried to create one yourself?

Else

Original Poster:

795 posts

245 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2019
quotequote all
I bought it from Emerald years ago and I loaded the rover V8 basemap for distributorless setup.

It definately fires at least one coil, the backfires through the exhaust are damm loud

GreenV8S

30,477 posts

291 months

Wednesday 2nd January 2019
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Is it possible you've got an inconsistency between the coil wiring and the ECU configuration such that there is a voltage across the coil when the ECU thinks it is idle?

It would be worth confirming that the coils are all getting the expected voltages on both legs before and after the ECU is switched on. Also check which coils are affected.

rev-erend

21,536 posts

291 months

Thursday 3rd January 2019
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From memory (so this might be a load of old tosh) the coils are powered up when the ignition is on (+) but only fired when they receive a (-) via the relevant (-) pins.

If you have a spark with zero revs then perhaps you have a stray earth causing the back fire.

I would pull the plug leads, pop an old set of plugs in them and earth them then turn on ignition. Once you locate the issue then trace the wiring from there back to the emerald.

spitfire4v8

4,017 posts

188 months

Thursday 3rd January 2019
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Is it definitely a K6 and not a late K3 ? The K3 is an evolution of the last of the previous ECUs (the m3d range) but the K6 is completely different. As such you can't use a wiring diagram for a k3 on a k6 and vice versa. Especially the ignition drive 4 changed from pin 17 on k3 to pin 19 on k6. Pin 17 on the k6 is a user configurable output, so you might have something conflicting assigned to that in the config .
In some earlier ecus pin 17 can be a shift light output but also can go to earth with ignition on and engine stopped, because that's a one-time event at key-on then that could possibly cause a single once only coil firing if that's the case?
Does the engine run fine once it's fired up though ? That would suggest you've got the wiring actually correct.

Things to check would be
that you've actually got a k6 running from a k6 wiring layout, not some earlier combination
that there are no conflicts on any of the output pins
send me your map and configuration files, and i can have a look .. or I can send you a map and config from a K6 I've fitted here .. but make sure it is a K6.

Else

Original Poster:

795 posts

245 months

Monday 7th January 2019
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Hello Jools,

Yes definitely a K6.

Definitely all plugs produce a spark simultaneously as soon as I turn the ignition on and reset the alarm. I have videoed it and will attach if I can remember how.

Luckily there isn't as much unburnt fuel in the cylinders now that I have got it to start more easily so no more backfiring. Could it be supposed to do that on start up to clear any unburnt fuel?

GreenV8S

30,477 posts

291 months

Monday 7th January 2019
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I that was me, I'd disconnect the coilpacks and see what's happening on the low tension inputs at startup. If yours is similar to mine, you'll have a 12V supply on one side switched by the 'run' signal, and the ECU will pull the other side to ground to energise the coil then isolate it to fire.

Else

Original Poster:

795 posts

245 months

Tuesday 8th January 2019
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Thanks Peter, just for clarity would you explain ‘run’ signal please.

GreenV8S

30,477 posts

291 months

Tuesday 8th January 2019
quotequote all
Else said:
Thanks Peter, just for clarity would you explain ‘run’ signal please.
It's a signal output from the ECU which turns on the fuel pump, injectors and coils while the ignition is on and the engine is turning.

spitfire4v8

4,017 posts

188 months

Tuesday 8th January 2019
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Else said:
Hello Jools,

Could it be supposed to do that on start up to clear any unburnt fuel?
Hi Andy .. no it definitely should not do this. It should only fire the coils once the engine has turned and the ecu has locked onto the missing tooth on the trigger wheel (which I think is what peter is referring to as the run signal .. the signal from the crank trigger once the engine is turning) . There is definitely something wrong.

Did you buy a part assembled loom from emerald or have you made it yourself or adapted the old loom? Make sure you only earth the trigger wire shielding at the ecu end, do not earth it at both ends.
When you power up the ecu do you momentarily see anything other than zero in the rpm box? If not zero then it could be picking up interference.

I had a Lucas 14cux car in recently which was picking up interference from the HID lights, the ecu thought the engine was turning and kept energising the fuel pump relay.


Edited by spitfire4v8 on Tuesday 8th January 12:41

GreenV8S

30,477 posts

291 months

Tuesday 8th January 2019
quotequote all
spitfire4v8 said:
I think is what peter is referring to as the run signal .. the signal from the crank trigger once the engine is turning)
Exactly. A typical ECU would not power these external circuits all the time when the ignition switch is 'on' - it would only power them while it detects engine rotation.

Boosted LS1

21,198 posts

267 months

Tuesday 8th January 2019
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What engine is this?

I fitted an emerald to a v6 cosworth a while back and recall that ford in their wisdom colour the earth and positive wires the wrong way. It took a while to get it running :-)

Else

Original Poster:

795 posts

245 months

Friday 11th January 2019
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GreenV8S said:
Exactly. A typical ECU would not power these external circuits all the time when the ignition switch is 'on' - it would only power them while it detects engine rotation.
I wired in the K6 to the old motec loom. On the Motec M4 wiring diagram I’m pretty sure the coil packs are powered from the positive from the ignition switch, or through a relay. I dont think they were fed from the ecu. I’ll have to check this on the car as soon as I get a chance.

Else

Original Poster:

795 posts

245 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
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Morning all.
Picked the car up from Joolz yesterday after having a new engine loom supplied and fitted followed by mapping. He has done a great job as usual, very neat install and took the time to teach me as much as he could about Emerald mapping. My task now is to refine the light throttle mapping to make it as comfortable as possible when pootling about town. Then once I’ve got that where I want it I am going to produce an economy cruising map and a pops and bangs map just for fun.

Else

Original Poster:

795 posts

245 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
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The engine didn’t make the 400bhp I was hoping for, actually made 387 with 400torques. It feels really strong when pulling hard but shunts a bit at lower, sub 2000rpm light throttle areas.

phazed

21,994 posts

211 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
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Else said:
The engine didn’t make the 400bhp I was hoping for, actually made 387 with 400torques. It feels really strong when pulling hard but shunts a bit at lower, sub 2000rpm light throttle areas.
Not hugely dissimilar to mine. Well done.

Else

Original Poster:

795 posts

245 months

Sunday 10th March 2019
quotequote all