It doesn't stop..........

[flyingdutchie]

Friday my waterpump broke......

I already had the bearing of the A/C pump broken and all because of the stty beltsystem "made by the former converter". My new system had just been put on before the MoT. All of this was the cause of wrong belts. Pullies not inline and therefore belt tensions that were too high.

Also the temperature sensor has been mounted at a wrong spot. When the pump breaks, you do ont get to see the temperature of the water in the engine. You get to see the much cooler water... Hope it is only yhe pump.

So this time eveything worked as it should. Engine running nice and emissions spot on. Now this....

[Walford]

Belt to tight ?

GM run a spring loaded tensioner so this cannot happen

[flyingdutchie]

That is what is on the engine now. With the original GM tensioner and a 6 rib belt. The other "system" is off and also fell apart when we took it off.

[SteveSPG]

On my Ls griff I re threaded the TVR sensor to fit the ls cylinder head so I can see the head temp on the gauge, and the GM ecu uses its sensor in the same position on the other head. That setup seems to work fine and is pretty straightforward to do

[neal1980]

ls1 pump needed?? I think I have one im not going to use

[flyingdutchie]

It looks like i am "lucky". It is the thermostate...!

[Walford]

are you running GM stat and housing or after market, they are some compatibility issues with CSR stuff

[flyingdutchie]

GM house and thermostat. The workshop, where i had to leave te car standing, called me again today. This morning he startedthe car again and after a short while the water cooked over the headertank again. Although the waterthermostat was removed. He thinks that it is a complete open system now. My workshop who fitted the kms motormanagment told me that it is a doubleworking thermostat and when you remove it, the system is not open but closed. Therefore it is probably overcooking quickly. The broken thermostat is closed and doesn't open anymore. Just hope that it is not headgaskets.

[Pete500]

As I did it on my LS2 is a copy of the Vette set up.


E is from waterpump outlet via Laminova oil-cooler(D) to radiator.
F is from radiator to waterpump inlet with the original termostat.
A is from the two small outlets in front of the heads via B to G coolant container with level sensor.
C is from radiator top via B to G coolant container. A and C is most important as thei remove air from heads and radiator.
G is connected via H to I on the waterpump suction side (biggest of the two tubes). Also heater return is connected to the same place. The smaller tube (hot water outlet) is blocked, I tap the heater water from the aluminium radiator inlet side.

The Laminova cooler is a rather smart item, from start the oil is heated by the cooling water, when oil is hotter than the cooling water it is cooled. Normal driving is 90 degres water and 100 degree on the oil.

Pete

[Walford]

When i had my car on the dyno the Chevy mechanic advised me to move both the head and rad steam pipe as they can airlock

Edit to say

So they bleed straight up

Edited by Walford on Thursday 27th June 14:49

[Pete500]

Move where? Or remove?
I think they are important. Inside by G I can see a stream of coolant all the time, making sure no air / steam is trapped in the heads or the rad. Pete

[flyingdutchie]

I got a call from the workshop just now. He put in a new thermostat. After a short while, coolant started to boil up again from the headertank again. Feeling the hoses on both sides of the waterpump showed that they both got warm? What can it be? On the gauge it said 60 degrees, but this is not measured at the engine. Although headgaskets is still a possibility, it would be strange when it is. My enginetuner drove ca. 40km with the car with the laptop on. They measured watertemp directly at the engine and tuned the engine. Watertemp was fine. Next day he drove ca.15 km to my house and nothing boiled or showed a temp which was too high. I did let it stand for a couple of days and then drove it to the MoT station for 6-7 km. After 5 km the first little white cloud came up from under the bonnet headertankside. Then at the station more came up. So, it is not likely that the engine had to do with too high temps for a long time. What is meant by airlock?

[flyingdutchie]

In the days the car stood on my driveway, i did throw in 3/4 litre coolant. To top it up, but i did not really know how much was in. I do not know if this can be a reason for an airlock or something like that.

[flyingdutchie]

On top of the radiator there is a plug wich shouls be open when the system is filled (i think). What do the (2?) outlets do on the heads? Can you get air out of the heads at that point?

[Pete500]

When the engine is shut down air or steam moves upwards to the highest possible places in the coolant system. This will in our type of cars typical be the heads. The two utlets in the head must be connected to the suction side of the water pump, when running any air or steam located in the heads will be evacuated. If this is not properly done air is trapped in the heads and you get parts of the heads not properly cooled - possibly boiling nearby water. A simpler solution than mine is to tap a hole directly into the waterpump - see the blue plug in the picture. Pete

[Walford]

4 and 14 are the steam pipes
4 on head near throtle body
14 top of rad

[flyingdutchie]

I am sure I've read it somewhere, but what is the correct procedure to fill the system with coolant and get the air out. My system is pretty much as with the original cerbera. I fill through the headertank with the nose of the car a bit lifted and the plug off the rad? When coolant comes out of the rad, plug back in. Let it run to see if the coolant level lowers adn top it up again? The workshop where it is now changed the thermostat, because it was broken. He said he filled the system correctly, but thinks the pump rotates in the wrong way. Checked the pump yesterday with my friend who is a automotive engineer. On youtube you can find video's explaining how the impellor should rotate. Turns out that the pump rotates correctly and the belt is also rotating correctly.He got the waterpump off again and he told me that there was hardly any water coming out. No enginedamage, because it was only running for a short while when water boiled up again. For me a sign that it wasn't filled correctly? We still rule out headgaskets because there should be other signs in that case.

[Walford]

are vthe steam pipes conected to the above drawing
if not how are they conected

[flyingdutchie]

The steampipes with the crossover are connected via a returnline to the headertank.

[Pete500]

I made the first fill trough the hose from engine coolant outlet (the uppermost one)until water flow out from the engine top outlet. This way you secure that the rad are filled, and that the engine are filled above coolant pump impeller level. Pretty important. If you start the engine with too low coolant level the pump will turn i air and never get "grip" and move any water. When running and coolant is circulating, you supply coolant until correct level. Pete