LS6 Cerb in NZ update
Discussion
Not much room here for the exhaust to get past the bottom of the trans. The final position of the trans could be an inch up or down from here so I won't worry about that until it's fitted.
And this is the gap for headers.
I'd already scooped out some of the GRP on the inside of the fender and looks OK enough at that point, but very tight down past the top rail.... Steve, not sure how your engine positioning is compared to mine, but does this look similar to the gap you squeezed your headers through? This pic gives an idea of how low it is:
After 18 months of delays (including building the garage in the pics and an apartment on top of it!) it's fun to be finally getting into this project
And this is the gap for headers.
I'd already scooped out some of the GRP on the inside of the fender and looks OK enough at that point, but very tight down past the top rail.... Steve, not sure how your engine positioning is compared to mine, but does this look similar to the gap you squeezed your headers through? This pic gives an idea of how low it is:
After 18 months of delays (including building the garage in the pics and an apartment on top of it!) it's fun to be finally getting into this project
The old "it fits but nothing else does" problem. 
The lowest anything should go is the bottom rail of the chassis as anything else seriously compromises ground clearance.
My engine is at about the same height and just clears the front ARB. With the engine in the position in the pictures, there is no space for the headers or more importantly space to fit or remove them. I moved the engine forward to give me additional clearance. In practice once the engine was bolted to the Cerbera bell housing vis the SHENG patented adapter plate, the engine naturally moved forward and it was clear that some frontal chassis modding was needed. It also tied up nicely with the existing engine mount location on the chassis so I didn't have to change those.
I also had the luxury of using the existing gearbox so providing the headers could get to the bell housing I could use the existing TVR routing and exhaust system.
The difficulty I see is that even with the engine moved forward, the T56 and bell housing would still block the transmission tunnel.
The lowest anything should go is the bottom rail of the chassis as anything else seriously compromises ground clearance.
My engine is at about the same height and just clears the front ARB. With the engine in the position in the pictures, there is no space for the headers or more importantly space to fit or remove them. I moved the engine forward to give me additional clearance. In practice once the engine was bolted to the Cerbera bell housing vis the SHENG patented adapter plate, the engine naturally moved forward and it was clear that some frontal chassis modding was needed. It also tied up nicely with the existing engine mount location on the chassis so I didn't have to change those.
I also had the luxury of using the existing gearbox so providing the headers could get to the bell housing I could use the existing TVR routing and exhaust system.
The difficulty I see is that even with the engine moved forward, the T56 and bell housing would still block the transmission tunnel.
Glad it's providing some entertainment 
I've just come back from dropping off the chassis, wishbones and various other bits for grit blasting. Dismantling the suspension down to components was a ba$tard of a job requiring long spanner/socket/allen key handles and a lot of force, but managed not to break or strip anything. Dunno if others found it as bad a job? Mine may have been worse than usual having sat around for two years.
I'm having some success with cleaning up the rusty bits too small or delicate for sand blasting using electrolysis, explained here http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch
Don
I've just come back from dropping off the chassis, wishbones and various other bits for grit blasting. Dismantling the suspension down to components was a ba$tard of a job requiring long spanner/socket/allen key handles and a lot of force, but managed not to break or strip anything. Dunno if others found it as bad a job? Mine may have been worse than usual having sat around for two years.
I'm having some success with cleaning up the rusty bits too small or delicate for sand blasting using electrolysis, explained here http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch
Don
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