LS6 Cerb in NZ update
Discussion
Boosted Ls1 said:
Yep, late big wing can be chopped. Early big wing may fit if you can find one Ls2 pan is a real cheapie item. Probably costs about a third of the cost to produce compared to the last big wing, which was the pukka be all and end all of sumps. It was designed to stop starvation etc under high G loadings. Sometimes GM spin a whole lot of yarn, I don't believe the ls2 pan is better then the split level big wing!
Boosted.
Stop spending so much time on the net
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chevtrev said:
Boosted Ls1 said:
Yep, late big wing can be chopped. Early big wing may fit if you can find one Ls2 pan is a real cheapie item. Probably costs about a third of the cost to produce compared to the last big wing, which was the pukka be all and end all of sumps. It was designed to stop starvation etc under high G loadings. Sometimes GM spin a whole lot of yarn, I don't believe the ls2 pan is better then the split level big wing!
Boosted.
Stop spending so much time on the net,I can never get hold of you
Sorry Matey, got to go out in a mo but have sent you mail. It would be good to catch up on developments
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Boosted.
I took some more measurements and here's how it looks overlayed onto a photo of the engine and box:
There are some bumps in the housing that project outside the line of the top rail but I think there's enough room in the fibreglass tunnel to take it without surgery, assuming they don't project into the rail itself.
It's 260mm from the shift lever on the T56 to where it needs to come up (dotted circle). Think Paul's got a solution for me on this though...
Don
![](http://tvr1.members.winisp.net/firecerb/chassisenginefit.jpg)
![](http://tvr1.members.winisp.net/firecerb/myls6t56sideview.jpg)
There are some bumps in the housing that project outside the line of the top rail but I think there's enough room in the fibreglass tunnel to take it without surgery, assuming they don't project into the rail itself.
It's 260mm from the shift lever on the T56 to where it needs to come up (dotted circle). Think Paul's got a solution for me on this though...
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Don
Don,you should take up a career in computers instead of this car building biz..
Have you taken into account engine height?The top of the box will clear the top rail no worries,all you have to worry about is where the tunnel uprights are,and thats dependant on longitudinal placement of powertrain.(even then upright scolloping isn't a biggie.
Start with your engine ground clearence first,suggest no less than 110mm ground clearence for a road car(compliance and wof is 100 min)and then a compromise as far back as possible between,accesibility and need for chopping.
Ps: nice looking engine and well packed crate
Forgot to say,assuming your bottom rail cavity width is around 450/453mm the starter motor will probably hit first before the back of the engine starts getting tight against the firewall bulkhead.
>> Edited by chevtrev on Thursday 16th February 06:19
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Have you taken into account engine height?The top of the box will clear the top rail no worries,all you have to worry about is where the tunnel uprights are,and thats dependant on longitudinal placement of powertrain.(even then upright scolloping isn't a biggie.
Start with your engine ground clearence first,suggest no less than 110mm ground clearence for a road car(compliance and wof is 100 min)and then a compromise as far back as possible between,accesibility and need for chopping.
Ps: nice looking engine and well packed crate
![](http://www.pistonheads.com/include/images/smile.gif)
Forgot to say,assuming your bottom rail cavity width is around 450/453mm the starter motor will probably hit first before the back of the engine starts getting tight against the firewall bulkhead.
>> Edited by chevtrev on Thursday 16th February 06:19
That's quite a gap back to the gearstick but Chevtrev probably has an answer. An other possible option is the viper box which gets the stick 3 odd inches further forward. It's got a stronger output shaft. Downside with this box is you need the lsx front end fitting to it. The ford box is similar but I think the most expensive of the lot.
Boosted.
Boosted.
chevtrev said:Christ that remote linkage stuff from the t5 was bugger to get out!
TVR/LS6/T56 shifter linkages available at your nearest dealer
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Patent pending..![]()
>> Edited by chevtrev on Thursday 16th February 09:52
Best thing for it was the bin (for me) - like your mod for the t56 to use it though - I kept the gear stick - sits a good bit higher in min as direct in to tko - an cannot be assed to cut down - kind of like it and people as why is it SO BIG! / Long.....
shpub said:
To be honest I think the next step is to get that engine and gearbox on a decent hoist and pop it into the car to see exactly what's what. that way you can get a 3D view of where everything goes.
You're absolutely right Steve and that's just what I'd be doing except the car is in a storage in a disused chicken shed in Otaki (1 hour north), Engine/trans in Palmerston North (2 hours north), and I'm in Wellington waiting for the local council to approve my garage plans so I can build the garage that it's all going to happen in! In the meantime all I can do is exhaustive research and accumulate the extra parts I need (sorry if you guys are the ones getting exhausted but this thread has been a huge help to me!
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Got myself an LS1 A/c compressor and PS pump off ebay last night.
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Aha the old bits spread out over the country problem.
Having looked at the computer generated piccy I thing the engine will need to come forward about 6 inches and the top of your T5 6 and clutch housing looks about 2-3 inches higher than the top of the t5 conversion I'm doing. As Chevtrev said, you need to work out clearances and go from there. The AJP sump is effectively level with the bottom chassis rail and that effectively determines where the engine will be from the height. Can't really go lower because of clearance and the front ARB. From that you can work out everything else. Don't assume anything until you have the engine in place as it is very surprising what gets in the way.
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Having looked at the computer generated piccy I thing the engine will need to come forward about 6 inches and the top of your T5 6 and clutch housing looks about 2-3 inches higher than the top of the t5 conversion I'm doing. As Chevtrev said, you need to work out clearances and go from there. The AJP sump is effectively level with the bottom chassis rail and that effectively determines where the engine will be from the height. Can't really go lower because of clearance and the front ARB. From that you can work out everything else. Don't assume anything until you have the engine in place as it is very surprising what gets in the way.
Just comparing an engine in a real chassis that is all mated up to the existing drive train.
The AJP V8 isn't that far back BTW for starters anyway.
No one will know until Don gets all the bits together in one place and plays 3D jigsaws.
It also depends on how much he has cut away.
You can do some research but until you fit together... you don't know exactly where everything has to go.
The AJP V8 isn't that far back BTW for starters anyway.
No one will know until Don gets all the bits together in one place and plays 3D jigsaws.
It also depends on how much he has cut away.
You can do some research but until you fit together... you don't know exactly where everything has to go.
Some progress on the Cerb/LS6...
The engine & T56 box fit very well. I had to remove the crank pulley to swing it in but it doesn't look like any chassis or body modifications will be necessary. Getting the exhaust down the transmission tunnel will be a bit tight though.
And then the body off. The '96 chassis has suffered as much as most of them seem to have and mostly around the outriggers. One of the outrigger tubes is bent - probably from being used as a jacking point. Next step is to strip the chassis and get it all shot blasted.
![](http://tvr1.members.winisp.net/cerbbuild/ls6testfit.jpg)
The engine & T56 box fit very well. I had to remove the crank pulley to swing it in but it doesn't look like any chassis or body modifications will be necessary. Getting the exhaust down the transmission tunnel will be a bit tight though.
![](http://tvr1.members.winisp.net/cerbbuild/bodyoff.jpg)
And then the body off. The '96 chassis has suffered as much as most of them seem to have and mostly around the outriggers. One of the outrigger tubes is bent - probably from being used as a jacking point. Next step is to strip the chassis and get it all shot blasted.
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