Standing Starts
Discussion
For all cars you want to hold the tyres at the point of maximum grip whilst accelerating. For most tyres this is at around 4-10% slip, so the tyre will be moving 4-10% faster than the car is travelling. Obviously there eventually comes a point where the car doesn't have the power to maintain the slip and you can bury the throttle. It's worth mentioning that this is very hard to do from rest with a sudden get away, and better results can often be achieved by using a "granny start", whereby you get the car rolling slowly and then bring in the throttle until you feel the rears slipping.
That's the theory anyway
I've been racing for years and usually lose about 5 places by the first corner 
That's the theory anyway
I've been racing for years and usually lose about 5 places by the first corner 
Standing start is affected not only by what wheels are driven but also by what power and torque the cars engine has and also what transmission.
For example, i launch my 335d steptronic auto with 1500-1700rpm, ''brake boosting'' before releasing the brake peddle and applying full throttle!
Carlos
For example, i launch my 335d steptronic auto with 1500-1700rpm, ''brake boosting'' before releasing the brake peddle and applying full throttle!
Carlos
Why would you want to?
In my years of driving I have found that, invariably, the ones who like to lauch away from the lights in a Santa Pod stylee often lack the ability to make progress in their drive due to their lack of skill (in general).
I've lost count on the amount of "normal" starts I have done and have caught up, passed, and left for dust, the young man (and it invariablly is) who tried to impress me with his standing start skills.
The above description of the "granny" start seems to match my attitude. Take off normally, then add in the power once you have got moving.
May not be good on the race track, but works on the roads.
Alternatively, if you drive a modern automatic-transmissioned car, then you will pretty much win every traffic light grand prix.
In my years of driving I have found that, invariably, the ones who like to lauch away from the lights in a Santa Pod stylee often lack the ability to make progress in their drive due to their lack of skill (in general).
I've lost count on the amount of "normal" starts I have done and have caught up, passed, and left for dust, the young man (and it invariablly is) who tried to impress me with his standing start skills.
The above description of the "granny" start seems to match my attitude. Take off normally, then add in the power once you have got moving.
May not be good on the race track, but works on the roads.
Alternatively, if you drive a modern automatic-transmissioned car, then you will pretty much win every traffic light grand prix.
with a reasonably powerful street car, you'll overpower the street tyres with a full bore launch.. This applies on both street and strip..
Changing your launch style to take this into account will undoubtedly improve your 0-60, 0-100 1/4 mile or whichever you are attempting to do..
Each car will have a differing amount of revs/power that it can cope with at launch, some will not let you rev past a certain level at standstill (Honda Civic Type R will only rev to 4750 IIRC which is about the perfect launch RPM), some include a sport start facility (DSG VAG cars, Smart Roadster (to a lesser extent), new Nissan GTR)
I've read that the best launch from 4wd cars (Evo/WRX etc) is had by pre-loading the drive train on the handbrake and building revs and boost, this of course is not condusive to longevity of any of the components!
Remember, the 0-60, 0-100 & 1/4 mile times extracted by the manufacturers and magazine testers involve throwing mechanical sympathy out of the window!
HTH,
slinky
Changing your launch style to take this into account will undoubtedly improve your 0-60, 0-100 1/4 mile or whichever you are attempting to do..
Each car will have a differing amount of revs/power that it can cope with at launch, some will not let you rev past a certain level at standstill (Honda Civic Type R will only rev to 4750 IIRC which is about the perfect launch RPM), some include a sport start facility (DSG VAG cars, Smart Roadster (to a lesser extent), new Nissan GTR)
I've read that the best launch from 4wd cars (Evo/WRX etc) is had by pre-loading the drive train on the handbrake and building revs and boost, this of course is not condusive to longevity of any of the components!
Remember, the 0-60, 0-100 & 1/4 mile times extracted by the manufacturers and magazine testers involve throwing mechanical sympathy out of the window!
HTH,
slinky
Daschund said:
Why would you want to?
In my years of driving I have found that, invariably, the ones who like to lauch away from the lights in a Santa Pod stylee often lack the ability to make progress in their drive due to their lack of skill (in general).
I've lost count on the amount of "normal" starts I have done and have caught up, passed, and left for dust, the young man (and it invariablly is) who tried to impress me with his standing start skills.
The above description of the "granny" start seems to match my attitude. Take off normally, then add in the power once you have got moving.
May not be good on the race track, but works on the roads.
Alternatively, if you drive a modern automatic-transmissioned car, then you will pretty much win every traffic light grand prix.
I think the OP is reffering to a example of a full bore launch in different types of car, which has nothign to do with a B road blast has it!In my years of driving I have found that, invariably, the ones who like to lauch away from the lights in a Santa Pod stylee often lack the ability to make progress in their drive due to their lack of skill (in general).
I've lost count on the amount of "normal" starts I have done and have caught up, passed, and left for dust, the young man (and it invariablly is) who tried to impress me with his standing start skills.
The above description of the "granny" start seems to match my attitude. Take off normally, then add in the power once you have got moving.
May not be good on the race track, but works on the roads.
Alternatively, if you drive a modern automatic-transmissioned car, then you will pretty much win every traffic light grand prix.
Slinky said:
with a reasonably powerful street car, you'll overpower the street tyres with a full bore launch.. This applies on both street and strip..
Changing your launch style to take this into account will undoubtedly improve your 0-60, 0-100 1/4 mile or whichever you are attempting to do..
Each car will have a differing amount of revs/power that it can cope with at launch, some will not let you rev past a certain level at standstill (Honda Civic Type R will only rev to 4750 IIRC which is about the perfect launch RPM), some include a sport start facility (DSG VAG cars, Smart Roadster (to a lesser extent), new Nissan GTR)
I've read that the best launch from 4wd cars (Evo/WRX etc) is had by pre-loading the drive train on the handbrake and building revs and boost, this of course is not condusive to longevity of any of the components!
Remember, the 0-60, 0-100 & 1/4 mile times extracted by the manufacturers and magazine testers involve throwing mechanical sympathy out of the window!
HTH,
slinky
I beat manufacturers figures when my car was stock!! Didnt really take a beating either to do it!Changing your launch style to take this into account will undoubtedly improve your 0-60, 0-100 1/4 mile or whichever you are attempting to do..
Each car will have a differing amount of revs/power that it can cope with at launch, some will not let you rev past a certain level at standstill (Honda Civic Type R will only rev to 4750 IIRC which is about the perfect launch RPM), some include a sport start facility (DSG VAG cars, Smart Roadster (to a lesser extent), new Nissan GTR)
I've read that the best launch from 4wd cars (Evo/WRX etc) is had by pre-loading the drive train on the handbrake and building revs and boost, this of course is not condusive to longevity of any of the components!
Remember, the 0-60, 0-100 & 1/4 mile times extracted by the manufacturers and magazine testers involve throwing mechanical sympathy out of the window!
HTH,
slinky
Daschund said:
Why would you want to?
Ordinarily, I'd tend to agree with you but on my regular commute I need to join a roundabout where the flow of traffic from the right is pretty much continuous. You have three choices: - wait for a decent gap (allow an hour or so until the rush hour traffic has reduced) and then accelerate normally,
- see a small gap and accelerate into it gently (not recommended; I've watched others do this and the consequences are not pretty),
- see a small gap and accelerate positively, balancing power against traction to join the roundabout without requiring other drivers to take avoiding action.
Needless to say, the third option is the preferred one and to make it work you do need to understand how best to get your car off the line, be it fwd, rwd or awd and whether the road is dry or wet. Done well, balancing revs against grip just so, it's a very satisfying manouvre.
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