Steering Techniques
Discussion
Steering first. Most experts recommend a mix of pull push with other steering techniques. For smaller movements of the steering wheel, a good technique is fixed grip, where you keep both hands in the same position on the steering wheel, probably quarter to three when straight ahead, and simply turn. Fixed grip steering is particularly suitable for faster open road driving, giving smooth and sensitive control of the wheel. Opinions differ on how sharp a turn has to be before it is better to use a different technique such as pull push.
There is also a halfway house. When you expect to need slightly more steering than will be comfortable with fixed grip, a good approach is to pre-position the hands on the wheel before you start to turn so that without moving them again they will still be at a comfortable position in the middle of the turn.
For larger movements of the wheel, some people recommend a hand over hand, or rotational, steering technique as an alternative to pull push. When very large and rapid movements of the wheel are required, as in skid control, rotational steering enables you to turn the wheel faster than pull push.
The objectives of any method of steering are to be able to steer smoothly, with good control over the wheel, with flexibility to deal with a need for sudden changes, with sensitivity to information about grip levels, comfortably, with access to ancillary controls, and perhaps without hands over the airbag in potentially dangerous situations. You might think about how the different techniques match these various needs.
Personally, I think you can steer well with a number of different techniques. The important thing is to practise doing it smoothly and accurately, preferably only requiring one angle of steer for the whole of a bend. However, if you plan to do IAM or Rospa (see below) in due course they will expect you to use PP at least for larger movements of the wheel.
Now for advanced training. With IAM, you pay £139 for 'Skill for Life'. Rather than describe here what you get, it makes more sense to point you to the IAM website: http://www.iam.org.uk/the_advanced_programme/thead...
£139 may sound a lot to you, but it is very good value - IAM is a charity and your 1-to-1 in car preparation for the Advanced Test is given through local branches by unpaid volunteers. Some local groups may offer a special deal for young people.
There is a rival organisation: RoSPA Advanced Drivers and Riders (ROADAR): look at http://www.roadar.org/drivers/how/index.htm
Essentially, what they offer is almost identical to IAM, and it costs rather less (typically £85, varying by location, and much more difficult to work out how much it will be in the end!). ROADAR has fewer local branches than IAM, a less slick national organisation, and does not give you access to the IAM insurance scheme which many members find saves them money. In terms of the training you get, there is more difference between different local groups of the two organisations than there is between the organisations themselves. I would advise you to locate and contact your local group of each and ask them how they work, before making up your mind.
You may also like to look at another Advanced Driving site with a good forum: http://www.advanced-driving.co.uk/
Good luck.
There is also a halfway house. When you expect to need slightly more steering than will be comfortable with fixed grip, a good approach is to pre-position the hands on the wheel before you start to turn so that without moving them again they will still be at a comfortable position in the middle of the turn.
For larger movements of the wheel, some people recommend a hand over hand, or rotational, steering technique as an alternative to pull push. When very large and rapid movements of the wheel are required, as in skid control, rotational steering enables you to turn the wheel faster than pull push.
The objectives of any method of steering are to be able to steer smoothly, with good control over the wheel, with flexibility to deal with a need for sudden changes, with sensitivity to information about grip levels, comfortably, with access to ancillary controls, and perhaps without hands over the airbag in potentially dangerous situations. You might think about how the different techniques match these various needs.
Personally, I think you can steer well with a number of different techniques. The important thing is to practise doing it smoothly and accurately, preferably only requiring one angle of steer for the whole of a bend. However, if you plan to do IAM or Rospa (see below) in due course they will expect you to use PP at least for larger movements of the wheel.
Now for advanced training. With IAM, you pay £139 for 'Skill for Life'. Rather than describe here what you get, it makes more sense to point you to the IAM website: http://www.iam.org.uk/the_advanced_programme/thead...
£139 may sound a lot to you, but it is very good value - IAM is a charity and your 1-to-1 in car preparation for the Advanced Test is given through local branches by unpaid volunteers. Some local groups may offer a special deal for young people.
There is a rival organisation: RoSPA Advanced Drivers and Riders (ROADAR): look at http://www.roadar.org/drivers/how/index.htm
Essentially, what they offer is almost identical to IAM, and it costs rather less (typically £85, varying by location, and much more difficult to work out how much it will be in the end!). ROADAR has fewer local branches than IAM, a less slick national organisation, and does not give you access to the IAM insurance scheme which many members find saves them money. In terms of the training you get, there is more difference between different local groups of the two organisations than there is between the organisations themselves. I would advise you to locate and contact your local group of each and ask them how they work, before making up your mind.
You may also like to look at another Advanced Driving site with a good forum: http://www.advanced-driving.co.uk/
Good luck.
doodles19 said:
I was taught to drive when 17 by a fairly old school IAM instructor and ex-traffic officer, who always insisted that I used the push pull method of steering.
I can see the benefits of push pull, i.e always having hands at the optimum point of contact on the steering wheel, so you are able to cope better with any hazard that may appear mid corner for example.
However, I was wondering if there are any other approved methods of steering? I know we should all use push pull etc, but at points I do find it cumbersome.
ETA: Just as a passing enquiry, what would I need to do if I wanted to try and gain advanced driver certification? Is the best thing to do simply to contact the IAM and see what they say or is there another method?
Being a poor student for the moment, I would also be appreciative if someone might be able to give me a rough estimate of how much gaining an IAM certification might cost?
TIA!
waremark has provided the answers, my only caveat would be with regard to where one has one's hands on the steering wheel, in that variations in cars, seating position, build of the driver, steering wheel size and design might influence the exact position for one's hands.I can see the benefits of push pull, i.e always having hands at the optimum point of contact on the steering wheel, so you are able to cope better with any hazard that may appear mid corner for example.
However, I was wondering if there are any other approved methods of steering? I know we should all use push pull etc, but at points I do find it cumbersome.
ETA: Just as a passing enquiry, what would I need to do if I wanted to try and gain advanced driver certification? Is the best thing to do simply to contact the IAM and see what they say or is there another method?
Being a poor student for the moment, I would also be appreciative if someone might be able to give me a rough estimate of how much gaining an IAM certification might cost?
TIA!
Btw, it's pull push, interestingly, easier the bigger the steering wheel.
Which, perhaps, tells us something?
I would agree with Waremark that steering inputs should be smooth. As an ex-DOT instructor, RoSPA holder and winner of the NCC driver of the year competition, I would like to add the following observation.
When instructing, I always taught pupils to pull, not push in general driving conditions. I have found that one has more feel pulling and input is more liner, than with pushing, which can end up more of a prod.
Try this technique for yourself:
Start by adjusting your seat / steering wheel so that your hands are in a comfortable quarter or ten to position. It is important you are able to reach the 12 o'clock position with ether hand without stretching.
Now imagine you are riding a horse and you have the reigns in your hands! To go left, PULL gently with your LEFT hand and slip your RIGHT grasp, and visa-versa. You will find you have far more 'feel' of the steering and importantly, whats happening with the front tyres. Using this method, I can place the car far more accurately in the corner and the car is more balanced as you accelerate out. T
When larger steering inputs are required, at low speed or for sharper turns, ANTICIPATE by raising the PULLING HAND to the 12 o'clock position and Pulling from there. The opposite hand slips down and is ready to PUSH if further input is required.
Few vehicles have a linear force required to turn the steering wheel. This is due to speed, power steering effects, grip etc. I have found this Pulling technique smoother, safer, more controlled and very accurate.
To summarise, in normal driving conditions, as in riding a horse, avoid PUSHING! Try it out and feel the difference!
When instructing, I always taught pupils to pull, not push in general driving conditions. I have found that one has more feel pulling and input is more liner, than with pushing, which can end up more of a prod.
Try this technique for yourself:
Start by adjusting your seat / steering wheel so that your hands are in a comfortable quarter or ten to position. It is important you are able to reach the 12 o'clock position with ether hand without stretching.
Now imagine you are riding a horse and you have the reigns in your hands! To go left, PULL gently with your LEFT hand and slip your RIGHT grasp, and visa-versa. You will find you have far more 'feel' of the steering and importantly, whats happening with the front tyres. Using this method, I can place the car far more accurately in the corner and the car is more balanced as you accelerate out. T
When larger steering inputs are required, at low speed or for sharper turns, ANTICIPATE by raising the PULLING HAND to the 12 o'clock position and Pulling from there. The opposite hand slips down and is ready to PUSH if further input is required.
Few vehicles have a linear force required to turn the steering wheel. This is due to speed, power steering effects, grip etc. I have found this Pulling technique smoother, safer, more controlled and very accurate.
To summarise, in normal driving conditions, as in riding a horse, avoid PUSHING! Try it out and feel the difference!
WhoseGeneration said:
Btw, it's pull push, interestingly, easier the bigger the steering wheel.
Which, perhaps, tells us something?
That pull-push was developed when cars had no PAS, and larger steering wheels to compensate? Which, perhaps, tells us something?
I'm a committed pull-pusher, but flexibility is key, as the OP will hopefully find if he goes for an advanced course.Another point to note is the amount of turns lock to lock - and the amount of adjustment available in a vehicle relative to the size of the driver. Some of our buses have very little reach adjustment in the steering wheel, making life difficult when you're well over six foot tall and need the seat far enough back to fit your legs under...
Lord Candleford said:
Now imagine you are riding a horse and you have the reigns in your hands! To go left, PULL gently with your LEFT hand and slip your RIGHT grasp, and visa-versa. You will find you have far more 'feel' of the steering and importantly, whats happening with the front tyres. Using this method, I can place the car far more accurately in the corner and the car is more balanced as you accelerate out. T
When larger steering inputs are required, at low speed or for sharper turns, ANTICIPATE by raising the PULLING HAND to the 12 o'clock position and Pulling from there. The opposite hand slips down and is ready to PUSH if further input is required.
Welcome to this forum Lord C. What is the NCC competition?When larger steering inputs are required, at low speed or for sharper turns, ANTICIPATE by raising the PULLING HAND to the 12 o'clock position and Pulling from there. The opposite hand slips down and is ready to PUSH if further input is required.
I would just mention that personally I prefer fixed grip steering rather than one handed steering where accuracy and balance are required.
To pick up on the other para quoted above, for really tight turns, I am happy to preposition the pulling hand beyond 12 o clock; so for a manoeuver or hairpin requiring a full turn of the wheel to the left, I would start with my left hand at 3 o clock, pulling the wheel 270 degrees with my left hand up over the top of the wheel and down to the bottom, and then pushing up 90 degrees with my right hand. However, while this is a way to apply that much steering, it is not 'The Way'.
Edited by waremark on Sunday 29th May 16:58
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