Boxster 981 upgrade door speakers
Discussion
My car has the Billy basic cdr31 sound system
So I have so far fitted a new Pioneer double din head unit. 50w per chnl
Next thing I want to is replace the door speaker. I think there is only one on the basic system?
Not sure what size the std door speakers are 6.5"? I have heard of people replacing this with N 8" speaker, can this be done?
Based on the above what speaker would you reccomend, absolute max budget £200
So I have so far fitted a new Pioneer double din head unit. 50w per chnl
Next thing I want to is replace the door speaker. I think there is only one on the basic system?
Not sure what size the std door speakers are 6.5"? I have heard of people replacing this with N 8" speaker, can this be done?
Based on the above what speaker would you reccomend, absolute max budget £200
6.5" speakers can be perfectly good, especially if separates - no need to go to the hassle and expense of increasing size.
Mounting and sound deadening makes a lot more difference than you'd credit - cheap speakers done properly will sound miles better than expensive ones installed poorly. Oodles of dampening mat over every surface inside the doors; absorptive foam behind the cones; speakers sealed to their mounts, and all other holes in the inner door skin sealed up as much as possible.
£100 - 150ish should find a decent set and leave enough for some mat.
Before you start, research your HU properly... It may say 50w per channel, but unless it also asked for a new, higher fused, power feed direct from the battery (and a similarly chunky new earth), that's not a true 50w RMS... more likely on the order of 20w RMS with 50w peak. You're certainly not going to need a high power rating; sensitivity is likely to be more important - ie, getting the most out of a smaller signal... the pay-off is likely reduced bass performance (although you'll have gained some/all/more of that back with good mounting and the deadening). I'm afraid it's all about compromises, especially if you don't want to start down the amplifier route.
I'm a big fan of Focal, so I'd suggest something like these would suit well.
Then learn about clipping of an amplified sound signal, which will kill your nice new speakers more quickly than anything. First thing to do after fitting them (or even before, if your old speakers are basically OK) is play a 1kHz test tone on the HU. Turn your volume up (you may want ear plugs - it's kinda piercing) until you hear the pure sound pick up a metallic edge. That's now clipping. Back it off a notch or two and never, ever, turn the HU up beyond that point. It is just possible that it won't clip - I've had one HU in my life that didn't - in which case great
Enjoy!
Mounting and sound deadening makes a lot more difference than you'd credit - cheap speakers done properly will sound miles better than expensive ones installed poorly. Oodles of dampening mat over every surface inside the doors; absorptive foam behind the cones; speakers sealed to their mounts, and all other holes in the inner door skin sealed up as much as possible.
£100 - 150ish should find a decent set and leave enough for some mat.
Before you start, research your HU properly... It may say 50w per channel, but unless it also asked for a new, higher fused, power feed direct from the battery (and a similarly chunky new earth), that's not a true 50w RMS... more likely on the order of 20w RMS with 50w peak. You're certainly not going to need a high power rating; sensitivity is likely to be more important - ie, getting the most out of a smaller signal... the pay-off is likely reduced bass performance (although you'll have gained some/all/more of that back with good mounting and the deadening). I'm afraid it's all about compromises, especially if you don't want to start down the amplifier route.
I'm a big fan of Focal, so I'd suggest something like these would suit well.
Then learn about clipping of an amplified sound signal, which will kill your nice new speakers more quickly than anything. First thing to do after fitting them (or even before, if your old speakers are basically OK) is play a 1kHz test tone on the HU. Turn your volume up (you may want ear plugs - it's kinda piercing) until you hear the pure sound pick up a metallic edge. That's now clipping. Back it off a notch or two and never, ever, turn the HU up beyond that point. It is just possible that it won't clip - I've had one HU in my life that didn't - in which case great
Enjoy!
Fantastic reply.
The head unit is 50w max and 25w rms
I have done a fair bit of car audio installation so appreciate the importance of correct fitment and sound deadening plus looking at speaker impedence and sensitivity.
I think my main reason for the post was to here from people who have 1st hand experience of the 981 Boxster.
Please don't think I don't appreciate your reply, I do,very much. In the past I have used focal to good effect. I also have experience with Hertz and MB QUARTZ.
I am a tad older and a bit lazier. Hence why I was just looking to replace the door speakers and prob leave the tweeters as they are. To that end I could get those focal and just use the mid bass and poss xover, thoughts?
The head unit is 50w max and 25w rms
I have done a fair bit of car audio installation so appreciate the importance of correct fitment and sound deadening plus looking at speaker impedence and sensitivity.
I think my main reason for the post was to here from people who have 1st hand experience of the 981 Boxster.
Please don't think I don't appreciate your reply, I do,very much. In the past I have used focal to good effect. I also have experience with Hertz and MB QUARTZ.
I am a tad older and a bit lazier. Hence why I was just looking to replace the door speakers and prob leave the tweeters as they are. To that end I could get those focal and just use the mid bass and poss xover, thoughts?
Edited by Petrolhead on Monday 13th December 22:01
Edited by Petrolhead on Monday 13th December 22:04
Petrolhead said:
Fantastic reply.
The head unit is 50w max and 25w rms
I have done a fair bit of car audio installation so appreciate the importance of correct fitment and sound deadening plus looking at speaker impedence and sensitivity.
I think my main reason for the post was to here from people who have 1st hand experience of the 981 Boxster.
Please don't think I don't appreciate your reply, I do,very much. In the past I have used focal to good effect. I also have experience with Hertz and MB QUARTZ.
I am a tad older and a bit lazier. Hence why I was just looking to replace the door speakers and prob leave the tweeters as they are. To that end I could get those focal and just use the mid bass and poss xover, thoughts?
Well, I've no Porsche specific experience, leave alone Boxster, but no-one else seemed to be answering... The head unit is 50w max and 25w rms
I have done a fair bit of car audio installation so appreciate the importance of correct fitment and sound deadening plus looking at speaker impedence and sensitivity.
I think my main reason for the post was to here from people who have 1st hand experience of the 981 Boxster.
Please don't think I don't appreciate your reply, I do,very much. In the past I have used focal to good effect. I also have experience with Hertz and MB QUARTZ.
I am a tad older and a bit lazier. Hence why I was just looking to replace the door speakers and prob leave the tweeters as they are. To that end I could get those focal and just use the mid bass and poss xover, thoughts?
Edited by Petrolhead on Monday 13th December 22:01
Edited by Petrolhead on Monday 13th December 22:04
I would replace the tweeters as well. It's generally pretty simple so long as the new ones are close to the OE size (or at least there is an OE hole for them, if your car doesn't have them at all?) and you can do a passably neat job with a couple of dobs from a glue gun. That way you'll know that the specs of the tweets matches what is being fed from the crossovers and will compliment the mids properly. (it would always niggle at me if I didn't...)
Almost certainly a tiny extra job in amongst all the deadening work.
Or just try with the mids only replaced first.
(Either way, definitely use the supplied crossover - the current HPF will likely come out with the OE speaker, as it's probably a small inline capacitor.)
Your only real risk is having to take the door cards (assuming that's where the tweets are) off again to change them if it's not working well.
I tyred a long reply and then deleted before posting, doooh
In a nutshell, thanks for the reply
I got some shop used Hertz components and fitted them using the xover for the bass speaker. I also sound deadened the doors.
The tweeters are in the air vents on the dash so not easy to replace so using them.
As you can see the std speakers don't look up to much
Also with the std speaker removed there is a zizeable hole, so some 8" may fit, some have even fitted a shallow sub there!
Also you will see there is a location for a 4" mid if I fancy splashing the cash.
I agree and amp would Defford be an improvement. In the meantime I am going to see how I feel with what I have done so far.
Thanks again for your input
In a nutshell, thanks for the reply
I got some shop used Hertz components and fitted them using the xover for the bass speaker. I also sound deadened the doors.
The tweeters are in the air vents on the dash so not easy to replace so using them.
As you can see the std speakers don't look up to much
Also with the std speaker removed there is a zizeable hole, so some 8" may fit, some have even fitted a shallow sub there!
Also you will see there is a location for a 4" mid if I fancy splashing the cash.
I agree and amp would Defford be an improvement. In the meantime I am going to see how I feel with what I have done so far.
Thanks again for your input
Edited by Petrolhead on Thursday 16th December 06:11
Oh yes, you've got plenty of room to play with there
I've always hated getting wires in and out of doors, do tend to use the OE wiring for that part (I'm never pushing huge wattages). Having the mids on the doors on and the tweets not would send me looking for where the OE wiring splits (if I had to guess, in the body rather than the door, otherwise Porsche would have to run signal wires into the door and back out again - too much cost
). I'd mount the crossovers at that place, so I could then use the OE runs to the speakers.
I've always hated getting wires in and out of doors, do tend to use the OE wiring for that part (I'm never pushing huge wattages). Having the mids on the doors on and the tweets not would send me looking for where the OE wiring splits (if I had to guess, in the body rather than the door, otherwise Porsche would have to run signal wires into the door and back out again - too much cost
). I'd mount the crossovers at that place, so I could then use the OE runs to the speakers.Curiosity got the better of me today, so I fitted the Hertz tweeters. Ran wires from the crossovers up to the new tweeters. Fitted passenger side first and compared to the Porsche tweeter and decided the Hertz tweeter sounded sweeter, less harsh. So I then fitted the drivers side. Tested, all OK so reassembled the car.
Then I went for a drive and the drivers tweeter is picking up some interference. This is only when the engine is running, it's like a very low hum/ wine
So some investigation is needed. The std Porsche tweeter did not have this problem.
I suspect there is something electrical on the d rivers side that's causing the problem.
Thoughts? What if I used some shielded cable instead?
Then I went for a drive and the drivers tweeter is picking up some interference. This is only when the engine is running, it's like a very low hum/ wine
So some investigation is needed. The std Porsche tweeter did not have this problem.
I suspect there is something electrical on the d rivers side that's causing the problem.
Thoughts? What if I used some shielded cable instead?
Can be a nightmare. Things to try would include going back to the OE tweet but with the new wiring and see if persists; re-routing the wire and/or repositioning the xover; cross wiring the tweeters to the opposite xover to see if the problem moves. Check all your connections as well - easy to knock something loose while putting things back together. Just about narrowing down where the problem is creeping in, then you have a better idea what to change.
Sorry if I'm trying to tell you how to suck eggs
Sorry if I'm trying to tell you how to suck eggs
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