Honda CRV Mk3 head unit replacement nightmare

[jetskiadam]

Hi, I'm hoping someone with superior technical knowledge to me can help with this one.

In May 2017 I decided to upgrade my 2007 CR-V EX's standard Nav Head unit with a more modern Kenwood Android Auto DAB+ unit. Not long after this I noticed the battery in the car was losing charge quickly. I replaced the battery. For a while it seemed all was fine but during lockdown when the car was hardly used, every time i did go to use it it needed jump starting. I got the AA out and they diagnosed a faulty battery and duly replaced it. I wasn't convinced that it was just a faulty battery and took it to an auto electrician who diagnosed the Kenwood head unit was at fault as when it was connected there was an 80mA draw on the battery while everything was off, but when the stereo was disconnected it was drawing zero.

I've now replaced this head unit with a new JVC Android auto unit and measured it as drawing 50mA while everything is off.

My questions are...is a 50mA draw acceptable?
Could it be the honda to ISO conversion wiring harness that is causing the issue?
I'm not sure which it is as it was bought so long ago but I have noticed that the ones advertised from connects2 and autoleads say not suitable for factory Nav cars. what would be the likely effect of trying to use it?
Could it be that somehow the car "doesn't like" not having the factory steering wheel controls or bluetooth system connected?
I'm happy to live without stereing wheel controls, I've already gone 3.5 years, but need the car to start. I notice Crutchfield sell a factory integration adapter and interface module for 199USD. Do I need this?

I really don't want to spend much more on this, I'm already 2 head units, 2 batteries, a harness adapter and a visit to the autospark into it and beginning to wish i'd just just bought a decent phone holder and a bluetooth FM transmitter.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

[shakindog]

0.4 amp or below is an acceptable drain as all cars have a battery drain due to security system being activated when the car is locked.
The extra 0.1 of an amp will be probably due to the after market head unit clock staying active once ignition turned off.
Does the drain fall if you remove the front if it is removable.

[SS2.]

50mA is normal for parasitic battery drain.

If you are not using the vehicle regularly enough to keep the battery charged (and you're convinced the head unit is what's drawing the power), you do have a couple of options:

1) buy a battery conditioner / trickle charger;

2) ensure there is no permanent live supply to the head unit;

[SS2.]

shakindog said:

0.4 amp or below is an acceptable drain as all cars have a battery drain due to security system being activated when the car is locked.`

400mA ?

[Fastdruid]

Is it correctly wired with one wire to permanent 12V and one to ACC?

Does it have a CAN bus adaptor that is also being powered off the permanent 12V?

[David Beer]

No more than 4ma should be drawn . Something is wrong, obviously .