New head unit wiring help
Discussion
So I have just installed a new head unit (Atoto S8) this thing is capable of fast boot cycles. Less than 2 seconds. However, my problem is that by default on my vehicle (Nissan) key out turns the radio off. You can't power it on without turning the key a bit. What this means is there's no power supplied and from what I understand you need a constant power supply to allow the unit to sleep (rather than be switched off)
This is controlled by the yellow wire. The harness etc are all connected okay. So what I think I need to do is cut the yellow wire on the head unit harness and give it an alternative 12v source. First thought is to hook it up to a fuse, maybe the alarm one. Is this feasible? Could I f
k something up if I tried this. Obviously I'd fuse this connection.
This is controlled by the yellow wire. The harness etc are all connected okay. So what I think I need to do is cut the yellow wire on the head unit harness and give it an alternative 12v source. First thought is to hook it up to a fuse, maybe the alarm one. Is this feasible? Could I f
k something up if I tried this. Obviously I'd fuse this connection.
Sometimes it's easy to pick up a permanent live from the cigarette lighter or an auxiliary 12v outlet. Varies from car to car and from socket to socket.
If you do this make SURE to install an additional low current fuse between where you pick up the power and your head unit. It may be a high current circuit that can easily start a fire - after all, how else would it light a cigarette?
If you do this make SURE to install an additional low current fuse between where you pick up the power and your head unit. It may be a high current circuit that can easily start a fire - after all, how else would it light a cigarette?
I've been poking fuses with my multimeter and found one that's giving me a reading when the engine is off. Hurray! I've got a spare add-a-fuse and I'll piggy back on with that. Any idea what fuse size and amp wire I should use? I have some really thin wire but I don't think that'll be adequate.
Edited by triangularmonkey on Tuesday 8th September 16:50
I'd expect the head unit to come with instructions saying what current is drawn and what fuse is needed for each of the two "live" connections.
Otherwise It's difficult to answer that question without knowing exactly how the unit works. So the safe answer is to use wire of decent thickness for both, bearing in mind a powerful stereo has to draw a pretty high current (because the voltage is so low at 12v).
If they haven't told you what fuse to use I'd start with low current ones and increase as may be necessary/appropriate. i.e. if a small fuse blows as the volume is turned up it's probably not big enough.
Often you can see which wire is the high current supply simply by looking at the thickness of the wires that go into the connectors.
Otherwise It's difficult to answer that question without knowing exactly how the unit works. So the safe answer is to use wire of decent thickness for both, bearing in mind a powerful stereo has to draw a pretty high current (because the voltage is so low at 12v).
If they haven't told you what fuse to use I'd start with low current ones and increase as may be necessary/appropriate. i.e. if a small fuse blows as the volume is turned up it's probably not big enough.
Often you can see which wire is the high current supply simply by looking at the thickness of the wires that go into the connectors.
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