Quick DSP install question
Discussion
I've got an Audison Bit10 DSP waiting to into my car so I can turn the OE and very integrated infotainment system into something with a bit more punch...
... I believe the standard fitting is to put the DSP behind the dash somewhere near the HU and then run RCAs to the amps (which will be in the boot, in my case).
Is there any reason I've not thought of not to also mount the DSP in the boot with the amps?
Obviously, it means extending the high-level/speaker wires (possibly also power, remote etc) from the HU to the boot instead of running the RCAs, but it would be much neater to have the DSP and amps all on a board together; much less taking apart of the dash; and much better access to the DSP for fiddling with settings.
Thanks in advance
... I believe the standard fitting is to put the DSP behind the dash somewhere near the HU and then run RCAs to the amps (which will be in the boot, in my case).
Is there any reason I've not thought of not to also mount the DSP in the boot with the amps?
Obviously, it means extending the high-level/speaker wires (possibly also power, remote etc) from the HU to the boot instead of running the RCAs, but it would be much neater to have the DSP and amps all on a board together; much less taking apart of the dash; and much better access to the DSP for fiddling with settings.
Thanks in advance
Hi,
Hopefully I can help (Audison UK Distributior)
You can mount the bit10 in the boot of the vehicle, without any issues what so ever. Most people do this.
In fact, we make it easier with some plug and play options to take the high level feed from your factory unit, to the DSP. These are available in a range of differ configurations and lengths. You would properly need the 5.6m version for a rear install.
Then, you would need shorter RCA cables to go to your amplifier, something like the Audison Connections BT2100 which are a 1m, good quality RCA. Obviously, other brands are available.
Update this thread with how you get on, and if you get stuck, ask and I will be happy to help.
Hopefully I can help (Audison UK Distributior)
You can mount the bit10 in the boot of the vehicle, without any issues what so ever. Most people do this.
In fact, we make it easier with some plug and play options to take the high level feed from your factory unit, to the DSP. These are available in a range of differ configurations and lengths. You would properly need the 5.6m version for a rear install.
Then, you would need shorter RCA cables to go to your amplifier, something like the Audison Connections BT2100 which are a 1m, good quality RCA. Obviously, other brands are available.
Update this thread with how you get on, and if you get stuck, ask and I will be happy to help.
No worries. They are available through the Four Car Audio dealer network and can be found on the website;
https://www.fourcaraudio.co.uk/brands/audison/prim...
If you can not find your vehicle, let me know and I’ll see what I can sort for you, through the network of dealers.
https://www.fourcaraudio.co.uk/brands/audison/prim...
If you can not find your vehicle, let me know and I’ll see what I can sort for you, through the network of dealers.
Ok, another (hopefully quick) question:
Does the Bit ten have to be connected to a remote-in from the HU, especially if I am intending to use the "turn-on-when-speaker-input-detected" mode?
Only my OE HU doesn't seem to have a remote out! And no ignition switched feed either - as far as I can tell it's woken up by canbus rather the good old ignition/accessory positive feed. Otherwise, I'll just have to connect the remote in to an ig switched live - but the HU will continue to play when the ignition is off, but the key not removed, so that might cause a small problem....
Does the Bit ten have to be connected to a remote-in from the HU, especially if I am intending to use the "turn-on-when-speaker-input-detected" mode?
Only my OE HU doesn't seem to have a remote out! And no ignition switched feed either - as far as I can tell it's woken up by canbus rather the good old ignition/accessory positive feed. Otherwise, I'll just have to connect the remote in to an ig switched live - but the HU will continue to play when the ignition is off, but the key not removed, so that might cause a small problem....
Sorry for the late reply. You don’t need a remote turn on for the bit10, or an ignition turn on.
If you look at the front of the unit, you will see a physical switch that says Speaker Turn On. If you flick this to the on position, then the bit10 will automatically turn on when it senses a signal being inputted to it from the hi level speaker input, from the factory radio. Therefore, if the radio is on and playing, the bit10 will be on to. When you turn off the radio, after around 1 minute, the bit10 will also turn off.
I hope that makes sense.
Let me know if you want more details.
Ed
If you look at the front of the unit, you will see a physical switch that says Speaker Turn On. If you flick this to the on position, then the bit10 will automatically turn on when it senses a signal being inputted to it from the hi level speaker input, from the factory radio. Therefore, if the radio is on and playing, the bit10 will be on to. When you turn off the radio, after around 1 minute, the bit10 will also turn off.
I hope that makes sense.
Let me know if you want more details.
Ed
That makes sense. I would always “bench test” a product first, but will say that in general, Audison is one of the most reliable manufacturers in audio, even if the manuals are a little......Italian!
The main issue with DSPs is setting the system up correctly. If you need help with that, please let me know and I’ll see if I can help. No point spending money on decent audio and setting it up incorrectly!
I’ll keep an eye on this thread and help where I can. Where are you based?
The main issue with DSPs is setting the system up correctly. If you need help with that, please let me know and I’ll see if I can help. No point spending money on decent audio and setting it up incorrectly!
I’ll keep an eye on this thread and help where I can. Where are you based?
RXED said:
I’ll keep an eye on this thread and help where I can. Where are you based?
SW Wales, so a bit out of the way...I've plenty of experience doing installs, but I'm normally also fitting my own choice of HU at the same time.
This (2016 Skoda Rapid) is the first time I've had a vaguely modern car where the HU also controls so much other stuff linked to the whole car's set-up. It also admits to turning down the bass at higher volumes to protect the OE speakers, so the de-eq function of the Bit Ten is going to be useful, as well as the line converter for my amps.
It's going to be a fairly simple system overall, just amped fronts (2 way with pasive x-overs) and a small/shallow-boxed sub which I'm planning to mount behind my seat most of the time, with the option to move to the boot when I need to carry 2 or 3 people in the back (normally just the dog behind me... he doesn't need the legroom!). I know this will mess up any time delays I set up, but bass is IMO less important if it's a little late, and will only be for short periods of time.
RXED said:
Sorry for the late reply.
Forgot to add - thanks for the help at all! Absolutely less than zero need to apologise for not being here within seconds! I really appreciate you taking the time 
Edited by defblade on Monday 24th August 22:38
No worries.
With regards to the time alignment and the sub. It shouldn’t have an effect. Bass fills the cabin anyway and is heard upfront in the staging. It’s a matter of opinion, but I have a full Audison set up in my Tiguan with an active 2 way front end, passive rears and a sub. The sub is not time aligned and it’s absolutely brilliant. Some people do set the delays on sub and that’s absolutely fine, but I doubt you will tell the difference.
Gracious video of my Tiguans system;
https://youtu.be/1Asy74g9_Dk
As for the reduction in bass. Unfortunately the bit10s de-eq feature may not help here. You set the DSP up using the maximum un-distorted volume from the factory radio. In my experience, on a VAG unit, around 2/3s volume. At this point, the radio may have already filtered the bass out. The bit10 can not sort something that isn’t being put into it, if that makes sense. Also, bizarrely, I have found that it is better to not de-eq VAG radios and to just correct the EQ that is there on the bit10 software. VAG radios don’t respond well the de-EQ. I can explain why, but won’t bore you.
If you want to get that full range signal at higher volumes, you need to correct it before it enters the bit10. The only solution that works, it the Audio Control Line Converters with Accubass technology. You will only need the basic one, the LC2i (Master and Sub). The Accubass technology will, in simple terms, restore the bass, as it drops off, sending a full, active signal to the DSP and then to the amps.
These are relatively cheap to buy and are very easy to install.
My recommendation is to fit what you have and try it. If you are lacking bass at the volume you want, then add the LC2i into the system to correct it. If you are happy with what you get without it, then happy days!
Again, if you want help with basic crossover points, or slopes, let me know and I’ll see if I can help. Although, it sounds like you know what you are doing!
All the best.
With regards to the time alignment and the sub. It shouldn’t have an effect. Bass fills the cabin anyway and is heard upfront in the staging. It’s a matter of opinion, but I have a full Audison set up in my Tiguan with an active 2 way front end, passive rears and a sub. The sub is not time aligned and it’s absolutely brilliant. Some people do set the delays on sub and that’s absolutely fine, but I doubt you will tell the difference.
Gracious video of my Tiguans system;
https://youtu.be/1Asy74g9_Dk
As for the reduction in bass. Unfortunately the bit10s de-eq feature may not help here. You set the DSP up using the maximum un-distorted volume from the factory radio. In my experience, on a VAG unit, around 2/3s volume. At this point, the radio may have already filtered the bass out. The bit10 can not sort something that isn’t being put into it, if that makes sense. Also, bizarrely, I have found that it is better to not de-eq VAG radios and to just correct the EQ that is there on the bit10 software. VAG radios don’t respond well the de-EQ. I can explain why, but won’t bore you.
If you want to get that full range signal at higher volumes, you need to correct it before it enters the bit10. The only solution that works, it the Audio Control Line Converters with Accubass technology. You will only need the basic one, the LC2i (Master and Sub). The Accubass technology will, in simple terms, restore the bass, as it drops off, sending a full, active signal to the DSP and then to the amps.
These are relatively cheap to buy and are very easy to install.
My recommendation is to fit what you have and try it. If you are lacking bass at the volume you want, then add the LC2i into the system to correct it. If you are happy with what you get without it, then happy days!
Again, if you want help with basic crossover points, or slopes, let me know and I’ll see if I can help. Although, it sounds like you know what you are doing!
All the best.
This weekend's job - breadboard it and see if it works.... yes it does
A messy job using loads of old bits of wire (5m long RCAs to reach 20cm, for a start!) and many chocolate block connectors... all the gains set to minimum (ok, I might have turned up the the sub amp a little to check (there's a 300w JBL hiding under the speakers))... and there's music from the Focals and the sub rather than the car, no error messages, the car-related stuff that runs off the HU seems fine... so now I'm sure it's worth breaking out the wallet again to buy all the new wire, RCAs, etc to make it a tidy install
A messy job using loads of old bits of wire (5m long RCAs to reach 20cm, for a start!) and many chocolate block connectors... all the gains set to minimum (ok, I might have turned up the the sub amp a little to check (there's a 300w JBL hiding under the speakers))... and there's music from the Focals and the sub rather than the car, no error messages, the car-related stuff that runs off the HU seems fine... so now I'm sure it's worth breaking out the wallet again to buy all the new wire, RCAs, etc to make it a tidy install
TEKNOPUG said:
I'd strongly suggest getting a second small amp for the tweeters and running an active front end, to make the most of the DSP.
I am considering it.Although I'm sticking with the passive set-up for now, I'll be putting enough wires in to cope an extra set of signals running forward, and chunky enough power wire to have supply room for a fair bit more current... changing around/adding stuff is the easy bit, it's taking the car apart to run the wires I find a PITA... So I'm building it in now
I can then either run an active set up if I fancy more SQ, or perhaps add rears in and balance/integrate them properly through the DSP if I want more SPL.
Gassing Station | In-Car Electronics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff