Tapping into the fusebox - spade size?

[Ken Figenus]

Does anyone know if a standard male spade can be used to push into a standard blade type fusebox slot please? I'm hoping to remove a fuse, put an inline fuse immediately on the supply side, run it to a switch and back to the load side of the fusebox via another spade connector. I think a std male spade is bigger than the slot for a blade fuse?

Cheers

[steveo3002]

would one of these do the job

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Add-A-Circuit-Piggy-Bac...

avail for mini or std

[Matt_E_Mulsion]

I'm fairly sure a standard spade terminal will fit in the fuse board contact.

[Ken Figenus]

steveo3002 said:

would one of these do the job

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Add-A-Circuit-Piggy-Bac...

avail for mini or std

I need to be able to put a switch inline mate so can have the circuit off or on and fused all same time. Cheers.

[Spare tyre]

Ken Figenus said:

steveo3002 said:

would one of these do the job

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Add-A-Circuit-Piggy-Bac...

avail for mini or std

I need to be able to put a switch inline mate so can have the circuit off or on and fused all same time. Cheers.

That would work for what you need

Those piggy’s backs are excellent

[Ken Figenus]

Spare tyre said:

That would work for what you need

Those piggy’s backs are excellent

I don't see how mate - put the fuse in and the circuit is always on? Fuse needs to be in series with load and new switch:

+ve from removed fuse-----------------------INLINE FUSE------------------------o/ o-----------------load from removed fuse

?

[simion_levi]

I don't see that add-a-circuit fuse tap will help your case, no - it won't let you switch an accessory already connected to the fusebox.

When adding circuits to a VWAG fusebox, you use Junior Timer and Junior Power Timer female connectors - for standard and mini fuses, respectively.

Although there's no guarantee other manufacturers use the same connectors (though they probably do) at least we know fuse blades of a certain sizing are constant, so I'd recommend that you buy male connectors for your purpose and they should push straight in. Use some heatshrink over the crimp/body of the connectors since they won't be inside a housing. Available from many places once you know what you are looking for, but here's one example that sell them individually:

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-50-conne...

JT for standard fuse size:
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-50-conne...

JPT for mini fuse:
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-50-conne...

[Ken Figenus]

Brilliant - thank you - I can solder my wires into that male connector and then push it in where the now removed fuse was. Perfect. Thanks.

[simion_levi]

Better to crimp properly if you don't mind acquiring a new tool, £15 on Amazon, you might find some below £10 on ebay (crimping tool with jaws for non-insulated terminals is what you need), e.g.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BGS-1419-Ratchet-Crimping...

But yes otherwise solder, I'm sure I've done similar in the past - bend in the lugs with some needlenose pliers to at least give some mechanical strength and then solder over.

[Ken Figenus]

Top tips thanks. Never liked the crimp ones - maybe because of poor tools - far easier to pull out whic is impossible with a solid soldered connection And I love the smell of soldering

[Penelope Stopit]

Ken Figenus said:

Top tips thanks. Never liked the crimp ones - maybe because of poor tools - far easier to pull out whic is impossible with a solid soldered connection And I love the smell of soldering

Apocalypse Now? I love the smell of........

Can't beat soldering