Scorpion alarm - removal or programming
Discussion
Can Anyone help -
Recently bought a Gen4 Camaro which is fitted with a Scorpion1014 T2 alarm/immobiliser, this works as it should with one fob, I have both the original remote fobs - sadly one of them doesn't work at all, I fitted a new battery, but no joy even though the green led light on the fob works when i press the buttton. Does anyone know how to activate/re-program the 2nd fob? I phoned scorpion who were less than helpful just saying that it was an obsolete system, which they no longer supported
I either need the 2nd fob working properly, or the other alternative :-
Is to remove the the complete scorpion immobiliser unit, and revert back to the standard Chevrolet key operated central locking system - I'd be happy with this simple system.
Can anyone post up a Skematic wiring diagram for this model Scorpion alarm, or better still explain in simple terms how to remove it from the car completely.
Here's a pic of the alarm remote fobs:>
TA
Rene
Recently bought a Gen4 Camaro which is fitted with a Scorpion1014 T2 alarm/immobiliser, this works as it should with one fob, I have both the original remote fobs - sadly one of them doesn't work at all, I fitted a new battery, but no joy even though the green led light on the fob works when i press the buttton. Does anyone know how to activate/re-program the 2nd fob? I phoned scorpion who were less than helpful just saying that it was an obsolete system, which they no longer supported
I either need the 2nd fob working properly, or the other alternative :-
Is to remove the the complete scorpion immobiliser unit, and revert back to the standard Chevrolet key operated central locking system - I'd be happy with this simple system.
Can anyone post up a Skematic wiring diagram for this model Scorpion alarm, or better still explain in simple terms how to remove it from the car completely.
Here's a pic of the alarm remote fobs:>
TA
Rene
^^^^What he said.
Did the same last year with an ancient Autojack immobiliser system on my Range Rover as the jack plugs are NLA & the sole survivor was getting rather battered.
Hadn't got a wiring diagram for it.
Find the immobiliser unit then just follow the wires from it.
Took about half a day chasing the wires & reconnecting the cut circuit wires (fuel pump, starter motor & one other which I don't know which circuit was affected!) plus removing the earths, live feeds, jack socket and led warning light used by the immobiliser.
Not difficult, just a bit of removal of bits of the dash undertrays to expose the wiring.
ETA The immobilised circuits on mine had a pair of wires from the immobiliser unit to each circuit.
The circuit wire had been cut (no wire removed so the ends were right next to each other) and one immobiliser wire soldered to each cut end so it was a simple matter of unsoldering the two immobiliser wires & soldering the circuit wire back together.
Don't know if this would be of any help but it's a Cobra wiring diagram & might give you an idea of the sort of thing.
www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/6570...
Did the same last year with an ancient Autojack immobiliser system on my Range Rover as the jack plugs are NLA & the sole survivor was getting rather battered.
Hadn't got a wiring diagram for it.
Find the immobiliser unit then just follow the wires from it.
Took about half a day chasing the wires & reconnecting the cut circuit wires (fuel pump, starter motor & one other which I don't know which circuit was affected!) plus removing the earths, live feeds, jack socket and led warning light used by the immobiliser.
Not difficult, just a bit of removal of bits of the dash undertrays to expose the wiring.
ETA The immobilised circuits on mine had a pair of wires from the immobiliser unit to each circuit.
The circuit wire had been cut (no wire removed so the ends were right next to each other) and one immobiliser wire soldered to each cut end so it was a simple matter of unsoldering the two immobiliser wires & soldering the circuit wire back together.
Don't know if this would be of any help but it's a Cobra wiring diagram & might give you an idea of the sort of thing.
www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/6570...
Edited by paintman on Thursday 27th January 17:09
I had trouble with a similar unit years ago - it started intermittently cutting the engine. On the M4. In the rain. The first time, we waited huddled up the bank for the RAC to turn up, which took about 45 minutes. Naturally, it started again straight away, and Mr RAC said he'd follow us up to the next junction as he had to go there to turn for his next job. It cut again about 2 miles past that. I was pretty sure it was the immobiliser, so I pulled right across away from the carriage way and (using my nail clippers which had a file on that made a decent screwdriver!) snipped out the immobiliser wires and rejoined the originals. Took about 20 minutes.
Or, to put it another way, so long as you know where the unit is, stripping it right out shouldn't be too bad a job.
Or, to put it another way, so long as you know where the unit is, stripping it right out shouldn't be too bad a job.
Thanks for all the advise guys - I really didn't fancy doing this job myself, although when the auto elec sparky didn't turn up after I'd booked him I took the plunge and did it myself. Easy Peasy, what on earth was I worried about Finding the immobiliser was a b
h, I had to remove 3 panels and steering wheel - job took 4 hours or so, but a real auto electrician probably would have taken bout an hour or so.
Like you mentioned it was 2 wires though finding both ends & joining a piece of similar gauge wire, required soldering.
Really pleased I saved myself £250 which is what the auto elec was gonna charge me
TA
Rene
Finding the immobiliser was a bh, I had to remove 3 panels and steering wheel - job took 4 hours or so, but a real auto electrician probably would have taken bout an hour or so.Like you mentioned it was 2 wires though finding both ends & joining a piece of similar gauge wire, required soldering.
Really pleased I saved myself £250 which is what the auto elec was gonna charge me
TA
Rene
Here's a photo of the problem immobiliser - and my 'Spaghettii Junction' surrounding it!!
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Immobiliser was Hidden behind the L/H footwell side panel, Unlike some installations previously mentioned, the wires were NOT near the ignition switch, on my car there are no removable steering column shrouds covering the switch itself - instead they are removable only if you've taken out the complete steering column!!
Once again thanks for all the help
Rene
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Immobiliser was Hidden behind the L/H footwell side panel, Unlike some installations previously mentioned, the wires were NOT near the ignition switch, on my car there are no removable steering column shrouds covering the switch itself - instead they are removable only if you've taken out the complete steering column!!
Once again thanks for all the help
Rene
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