Warm Up Procedure

[Mattt]

I had a search, but couldn't find a thread dedicated to this subject.

I'm interested to hear what warm up procedure you use for your Speed Six engined car.

[TA03ORA]

just get in and blat it to the red-line..


only kidding - must be loads of threads on this though

[Mattt]

I couldn't see anything in a search, most information seems to be contained within other threads on other general topics.

[duff-man]

Drive off straight away, don't leave it idle and stick to the following:

Oil Temp	Engine RPM
<40	2,500rpm Max
<50	3,000rpm Max
<60	4,000rpm Max
<70	5,000rpm Max
>70	Go Go Go!

This time of year you may not see temps +70 especially when on the move, however within 30-40 minutes of driving it should be up to temp.

Edited by duff-man on Wednesday 5th January 23:27

[Mattt]

Pretty much what I do - I hold revs at 1000rpm when first started for 10 seconds or so, as suggested in the Sagaris Bible - then move off.

I try to keep closer to 2000 than 2500 though at first.

[duff-man]

Also try and keep it above 1500RPM to prevent straining the engine

[Smooth Smith]

Mattt said:

I try to keep closer to 2000 than 2500 though at first.

Me too until it reaches 60 deg.

[Diablos-666]

Smooth Smith said:

Mattt said:

I try to keep closer to 2000 than 2500 though at first.

Me too until it reaches 60 deg.

+1

It was hard to stick to this yesterday morning when I had a Ferrari 360 up my chaff. I was a good boy though and thankfully we went in separate directions after a few minutes.

Also hold the throttle to 1k for a few seconds to get all the pumps up and running.

[Yee haa!]

so hang on - if you read some of the comments on here - you've got to keep it between 1500-2000 until warm, a 500 rev band. Until at road speed that's almost nigh on impossible.

Agree with the initial few revs to get the oil moving, also to get in and drive straight away.

Personally I'm very light on the throttle until the 40-50's. Tbh, 2500 is enough to get the car moving anyway. The other thing to note is the temperature on the move seems to be much lower than when stationary - cooling effect? Hard to judge but would this mean the gauge is under reading at speed?

[Diablos-666]

It's not impossible but does require a lot of gear changed and care when coming from a junction etc...

You really don't want to be going over 2k revs until the oil temp is at least 30/40 deg's. From there you can go to 2.5k revs.

That's just how I drive though, it doesn't take that long to get upto 70deg though in all honesty.

[JR]

Yee haa! said:

So hang on - if you read some of the comments on here - you've got to keep it between 1500-2000 until warm, a 500 rev band. Until at road speed that's almost nigh on impossible.

That's why the CR 'box is so popular.

[Diablos-666]

JR said:

Yee haa! said:

So hang on - if you read some of the comments on here - you've got to keep it between 1500-2000 until warm, a 500 rev band. Until at road speed that's almost nigh on impossible.

That's why the CR 'box is so popular.

how does the cr box help stay within 2k revs? Surely the engine is more "revvy" and so harder to keep within 2k revs?

happy to be corrected though

[JR]

Diablos-666 said:

JR said:

Yee haa! said:

So hang on - if you read some of the comments on here - you've got to keep it between 1500-2000 until warm, a 500 rev band. Until at road speed that's almost nigh on impossible.

That's why the CR 'box is so popular.

how does the cr box help stay within 2k revs? Surely the engine is more "revvy" and so harder to keep within 2k revs?

happy to be corrected though

When changing from one gear to the next the difference in revs is less with a CR 'box because the ratios are closer together, hence the name. So it was true but it's not really a reason to choose a CR 'box - that was a joke hence the wink, oh well.

[Diablos-666]

Oh i see your point now, it will help when changing down i suppose as the revs won't "jump" so high, but as soon as you put your foot down just a little bit you'll need to change up.

Didn't notice your either until you pointed it out.

[Zippee]

Everyone will have their own preferred method but as long as the engine isn't thrashed from cold most will suffice. My own take is as follows;
Start up, hold revs at 1500rpm for 10 seconds to annoy the neighbours and push some oil round the engine. Drive off keeping below 2500rpm until my oil hits 40deg and then below 3500rpm (good for 90mph) until it hits 70deg.

As already mentioned in this weather it can take an age to hit 70deg on the dash, but 20-30 minutes or so should mean the oil is there. I've used the above method for the last 2 years/14000 miles and have had no engine problems in my ownership and little or no shim adjustment or compression problems each service.

[bowenslim9415]

This thread is a gread advertisment for the heat pads that can be imported from Canada. I think there is a recent thread on here. Especially if you're wasting 20-30 minutes fuel making sure it is warm... seems like a good investment.

Does anyone know if they are any good and how are they installed? I know they plug in to the mains.??

[dmjw01]

I've just installed one, although mine is on the sump of an RV8. I don't know whether you'll need to remove your oil tank to gain access.

It comes with good instructions, but basically the process is as follows. It's pretty easy:

• Grind off any paint on the sump / oil tank using a drill and wire-brush attachment, to leave a scratched (not polished) surface.
• Thoroughly de-grease the surface with white spirit and soapy water.
• Run the engine until the sump / oil tank is warm to the touch. (Or just warm the tank if you've removed it from the engine).
• Remove the protective paper backing from the adhesive on the heater, then plug it in for 5 seconds.
• Stick it onto the sump / oil pan and smooth in place using the supplied plastic squeegee tool.
• Plug the heater in for 10 seconds, then smooth again. Repeat.
• Apply a bead of heat-proof silicone (supplied) around the edges of the heater.
• er...
• ... that's it.

The UK versions are supplied without a connector on the end of the cable, so you'll need to choose a suitable weatherproof connector. I ordered one of these, one of these and one of these. They're IP68-rated inline connectors rated at 250V/10A, together with a set of caps for when they're disconnected.

[bowenslim9415]

What temp does it get the oil to? And does this give the engone components time to warm up also?

ie: there must be a down side to using one??

[Diablos-666]

Down sides:

Having to turn it on 1/2 hour - 1 hour before using the car.

Remembering to unplug it before driving off.

Gearbox and diff oil will still be cold.

[Zippee]

bowenslim9415 said:

What temp does it get the oil to? And does this give the engone components time to warm up also?

ie: there must be a down side to using one??

You just need to remember it's not a replacement for any proper warming up, it just means the oil is warmer from the off helping it to flow round the engine at start up and lessening the total warm up time. You'll still need to get the other fluids and engine components up to temp.