DIY - Oil Pressure Sender
Discussion
I really don´t know if that is of any use, but for myself I sometimes take some photographs while working on my cars. Recent task was the exchange of the oil pressure sender, since the old one was badly leaking. The old one only had one electrical connection and is no longer availabel, so i got myself the new one, havong two electrical connections attached. You just have to earth that second one. There is no particular way to connect both wires.
1. Location
In the Cerbera and most other SpeedSix engines, the oil pressure sender is located on the drivers side inner wing, just under the airbox.
As you can see, there os only one wire attached to the old style sender. If still original, then there should be a yellow marker with "oil switch" written to it.
2. Earth lead
You can buy it or just create it yourself. I chose the starter motor to connect it, since there already was one free port on it.
3. The new style sender
Some views of the new style sender unit. In the third picture you will notice, that i used some teflon strip for better tightness.
4. Tools
To remove the old style sender unit from the block, you will need a 32 mm wide spanner and a good pipe wrench. To prevent the block from being ripped off the inner wing, you have to detach it first. Then grip the block and remove the sender unit with the spanner.
5. Installation finished
Here is just a picture of the new style unit installed
I hope this is usefull for someone here.
Best regards,
Björn.
1. Location
In the Cerbera and most other SpeedSix engines, the oil pressure sender is located on the drivers side inner wing, just under the airbox.
As you can see, there os only one wire attached to the old style sender. If still original, then there should be a yellow marker with "oil switch" written to it.
2. Earth lead
You can buy it or just create it yourself. I chose the starter motor to connect it, since there already was one free port on it.
3. The new style sender
Some views of the new style sender unit. In the third picture you will notice, that i used some teflon strip for better tightness.
4. Tools
To remove the old style sender unit from the block, you will need a 32 mm wide spanner and a good pipe wrench. To prevent the block from being ripped off the inner wing, you have to detach it first. Then grip the block and remove the sender unit with the spanner.
5. Installation finished
Here is just a picture of the new style unit installed
I hope this is usefull for someone here.
Best regards,
Björn.
Just a quick question on this gents.
I am about to do this on my T350. Whilst looking for an earth point I noticed the cable running to my oil pressure switch has two connectors. One (blue) is connected to the existing switch and the other (black) is not connected to anything. Is the spare black a neutral??
Cheers
Lee
I am about to do this on my T350. Whilst looking for an earth point I noticed the cable running to my oil pressure switch has two connectors. One (blue) is connected to the existing switch and the other (black) is not connected to anything. Is the spare black a neutral??
Cheers
Lee
Assuming you have detached the bracket from the inner wing, just grip it (the alloy bracket) with a large set of mole grips (self locking pliers) and undo the sender anti-clockwise. Being oily it shouldn't be too seized up - even if fitted by a gorilla !
The flexi pipes are only held in place by clips and cable ties so you can move the assembly to a better position to apply some leverage. Use some plumbers tape on the threads when you refit to avoid such overtightening again.
The flexi pipes are only held in place by clips and cable ties so you can move the assembly to a better position to apply some leverage. Use some plumbers tape on the threads when you refit to avoid such overtightening again.
Finally managed to get the old one off, I had to disconnect from the hose and put the block in a vice then use a wrench to twist off. I broke one side off a pipe wrench then used mole grips to eventually get it off. new one on but struggling to find spare earthing point on the motor, any other alternatives I could use?
Oh and when I get everything put back together what should the reading be from the sender? I tested last night and it read 99 psi
cheers
Oh and when I get everything put back together what should the reading be from the sender? I tested last night and it read 99 psi
cheers
TuscSam said:
Oh and when I get everything put back together what should the reading be from the sender?
0 if the engine is off ... (sorry)My indie specialist warned me to excpect a lower reading when I changed my old sender (which often stuck at 99psi until it warmed up). The new 2 pin sender does seem to read around 8-10psi lower in practice, but you should expect maybe 10-18psi hot at 800rpm and 50-60 over 3500rpm (depending on oil grade used). If you are concerned you cna 'calibrate' your readout with an oil pressure gauge plugged directly into the block.
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