FFS, any suggestions before i take it all apart again
Discussion
Got it all back together after changing the finger follow, There is still a tapping noise but it sounds different somehow, i did open one of the valve clearances up as it seemed tight so that may explain the tapping, HOWEVER, once it had walmed up it developed a whiring noise from the front cover. It did not do it when it was cold, but only once it had got up to temp, its not had chance to cool yet so dont know if its just when its hot.
The primary tensioner is in the same position is was in before the strip down, so pretty sure its not that, i adjusted it to Grahams manual spec and the hole matched where it was previously anyway.
I did tighten the water pump chain, this had a total of 20mm play, i tightened it, again to the spec stated in Grahams manual of 10mm total up and down on the longest run.
I have tried tightening/loosening the top adjuster with the engine running and it made no difference (apart from when obviously too loose).
The only thing i can think of is the water pump chain getting too tight when hot? i shall see tomorrow when its cooled. Can anyone confirm the tension of 10mm on this chain.
Any ideas?
The primary tensioner is in the same position is was in before the strip down, so pretty sure its not that, i adjusted it to Grahams manual spec and the hole matched where it was previously anyway.
I did tighten the water pump chain, this had a total of 20mm play, i tightened it, again to the spec stated in Grahams manual of 10mm total up and down on the longest run.
I have tried tightening/loosening the top adjuster with the engine running and it made no difference (apart from when obviously too loose).
The only thing i can think of is the water pump chain getting too tight when hot? i shall see tomorrow when its cooled. Can anyone confirm the tension of 10mm on this chain.
Any ideas?
Could it be one of the bearings in on the pumps gone, did you do any checks when it was in bits?
My chain tension is 10mm max, and no noise present from the area.
How bad is the noise, i.e. could you use the car and see how things progress, are you anywhere near a specialist who'd take a look and give you some help?
Shame it hasn't all gone well first time, good luck in solving the problem.
Cheers,
Richard.
My chain tension is 10mm max, and no noise present from the area.
How bad is the noise, i.e. could you use the car and see how things progress, are you anywhere near a specialist who'd take a look and give you some help?
Shame it hasn't all gone well first time, good luck in solving the problem.
Cheers,
Richard.
I didnt check the pumps other than the chain tension, didnt feel i needed too as i was only pulling the shaft for the followers and had no reason to doubt the condition of the pumps.
If it was a pump bearing i would have thought it would be there when cold also + its abit of a coinsidence. Sadly no specialist nearby and there is no way i will risk driving it the way it is.
Looks like im just going to have to strip it again to investigate. Would not be too bothered, it just that bloody pulley to take off again.
If it was a pump bearing i would have thought it would be there when cold also + its abit of a coinsidence. Sadly no specialist nearby and there is no way i will risk driving it the way it is.
Looks like im just going to have to strip it again to investigate. Would not be too bothered, it just that bloody pulley to take off again.
As viewed from the front of the engine the water pump chain only fractionally clears the front cover and block casting on the right hand side, it may be worth checking this area for contact before you get too expensive with solutions as tightening the chain will have made it run in a straighter line between the two gears thus reducing the clearance.
have you checked the half time bearing? That makes a whirring noise when it's on it's way out.
EDIT: found the problem.
The noise seemed to be coming from the inlet side and concidering the damaged follower on the inlet no6, i have paid it the most attention however the cause of the tapping is a missing shim on the exhaust side. These were checked but not removed (all within limit) so how its come out during re-assembly i really dont know. It does however explain the whiring noise as i expect its gone into the chains or savenge pump. front cover will be coming off in the next couple of days so i will soon see. It all went so well fixing the follower, fitting the new parts and painted covers some thing had to go wrong.
The noise seemed to be coming from the inlet side and concidering the damaged follower on the inlet no6, i have paid it the most attention however the cause of the tapping is a missing shim on the exhaust side. These were checked but not removed (all within limit) so how its come out during re-assembly i really dont know. It does however explain the whiring noise as i expect its gone into the chains or savenge pump. front cover will be coming off in the next couple of days so i will soon see. It all went so well fixing the follower, fitting the new parts and painted covers some thing had to go wrong.
Edited by BGB autosport on Wednesday 11th March 22:46
t.
Looks like my luck is changing, after taking the front cover off and searching around the bottom for the shim, fearing the worst i spotted it. Believe it or not is was sat in the adjustment slot on the water pump, next to the bolt. Appears undamaged so seems to have escaped the chains.
All the gear teeth have been checked and all seems well, got the tensioner and half time gears off and am going to change the bearings as there is some play in these and also seem like they could be noisey if spun fast enough. Oil and water pumps feel good.
Hopefully the rebuild will go smoothly this time, just need to get and fit the new tensioner & half time bearings, replace the damaged valve retainer, re-shim and put the covers back on.
All the gear teeth have been checked and all seems well, got the tensioner and half time gears off and am going to change the bearings as there is some play in these and also seem like they could be noisey if spun fast enough. Oil and water pumps feel good.
Hopefully the rebuild will go smoothly this time, just need to get and fit the new tensioner & half time bearings, replace the damaged valve retainer, re-shim and put the covers back on.
Good News......... Keep us updated, and congratulations on having the confidence to do the work yourself.
At the end of the day, the Speed Six Engine is a relatively basic design, and apart from the rather painful job of removing it from the car, the rest is relatively straight forward once you have the figures and settings of various components. Previous engine building obviously helps, but nothing a competant mechanic isn't capable of maintaining.
At the end of the day, the Speed Six Engine is a relatively basic design, and apart from the rather painful job of removing it from the car, the rest is relatively straight forward once you have the figures and settings of various components. Previous engine building obviously helps, but nothing a competant mechanic isn't capable of maintaining.
Well last night i set about putting everything back together, took the exhaust cam out, fitted the new retainer and re-shimmed, refitted cams, fitted new tensioner and half time bearings, timed it back up inspected every thing and i mean everything, new seals for tensoiners, crank and aux drive shaft, all covers back on and went for the moment of truth, and guess what.....
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It burst into life and doesn't sound like its trying to do the bloody river dance!
The whine is still there but its a healthy whine now, that you could ex[ect from 4 drive chains and 3 pumps and not a clattery whine like before.
Just need to fit the new coil, new 100a fuse holder, air box and im good to go. Hopefully.
On another note, i got my diagnostic lead sorted and it looks like im going to be changing the 123 O2 sensor.
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It burst into life and doesn't sound like its trying to do the bloody river dance!
The whine is still there but its a healthy whine now, that you could ex[ect from 4 drive chains and 3 pumps and not a clattery whine like before.
Just need to fit the new coil, new 100a fuse holder, air box and im good to go. Hopefully.
On another note, i got my diagnostic lead sorted and it looks like im going to be changing the 123 O2 sensor.
Yep, all with the engine in, its tight on space getting the front pulley off and the front cover, need to jack the engine abit, lower the engine abit etc etc. A few times i have had to sit on the engine so it would drop slighly lower just so i could get the crank pulley bolt in/out passed the chassis. There is a photo which im sure will pop up on here shortly of me perched on top wiggling the bolt in. 
BGB could you let me know how you set cam timing?I have my engine out,covers off,ready to replace chains,tensioners and half time bearing but not sure about timing it all back up again.I have one of Grahams brilliant workshop manuals,which shows a setting tool to position the cams,but do not know were to get one of these.Thanks in advance for any advice.Regards,Steve.
BGB autosport said:
Yep, all with the engine in, its tight on space getting the front pulley off and the front cover, need to jack the engine abit, lower the engine abit etc etc. A few times i have had to sit on the engine so it would drop slighly lower just so i could get the crank pulley bolt in/out passed the chassis. There is a photo which im sure will pop up on here shortly of me perched on top wiggling the bolt in.
The photo isn't great, all you can see is your flabby ass hanging over the fuel rail, oh and your grey hair! I'll try and upload it thoughGassing Station | Speed Six Engine | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff