Discussion
Hi guys
Got my 1st TVR - a Speed 6 Cerbie
Couple of things:
- oil pressure gauge - before I bought it I asked dealer to check oil pressure as it shows only 30 when accelerating and 15 on tick over
He had a garage do an independant oil pressure test which showed 45-50 on acceleration and 25 on tick over
He reckons the gauges are notoriously inaccurate - is this true? Car has a TVR Power rebuilt engine only 4000 miles ago
- start up - I know this needs to be done carefully - ie good warm up before roaring off. Car needs to be held at 1500rpm for a couple of minutes before it will idle on its own - is this normal?
- start up 2 - it smells very rich on start up - petrol smell from exhausts - again I am hoping this is normal
Cheers
Got my 1st TVR - a Speed 6 Cerbie
Couple of things:
- oil pressure gauge - before I bought it I asked dealer to check oil pressure as it shows only 30 when accelerating and 15 on tick over
He had a garage do an independant oil pressure test which showed 45-50 on acceleration and 25 on tick over
He reckons the gauges are notoriously inaccurate - is this true? Car has a TVR Power rebuilt engine only 4000 miles ago
- start up - I know this needs to be done carefully - ie good warm up before roaring off. Car needs to be held at 1500rpm for a couple of minutes before it will idle on its own - is this normal?
- start up 2 - it smells very rich on start up - petrol smell from exhausts - again I am hoping this is normal
Cheers
Hi and Welcome to the gang!
It is true that the guages are not very accurate and sometimes give false readings. You will get use to this. If you are getting extreme readings it might be worth a run to a garage to get it put onto the diagnostic software.
Tvr Power are very good at re-builds from what i've heard.
Yeah warming up is important - you may sometimes need to rest your foot on accelartor to begin with but try to keep the revs as low as possible as you may damage the engine giving it to much.
once going Wait till around 40 degree's before going upto 2500/3000 revs
The wait till 60 degree's before going upto 4000 rev's
around 70-80 degree's before giving it the guns!
Not 100% about smell of petrol but it mine is a little rich too.
Last but not least ENJOY!!!
Hope this helps.
Dan
It is true that the guages are not very accurate and sometimes give false readings. You will get use to this. If you are getting extreme readings it might be worth a run to a garage to get it put onto the diagnostic software.
Tvr Power are very good at re-builds from what i've heard.
Yeah warming up is important - you may sometimes need to rest your foot on accelartor to begin with but try to keep the revs as low as possible as you may damage the engine giving it to much.
once going Wait till around 40 degree's before going upto 2500/3000 revs
The wait till 60 degree's before going upto 4000 rev's
around 70-80 degree's before giving it the guns!
Not 100% about smell of petrol but it mine is a little rich too.
Last but not least ENJOY!!!
Hope this helps.
Dan
Edited by TVR Dan on Wednesday 12th November 22:31
Welcome to the SP6 club (you know it makes sense
) Is the car de-catted? That could explain the petrol smell when cold/on start up. I don't know if the Cerb has the same carbon canister in the front wing but I think if that gets clogged up it can produce a bit of a petrol smell - maybe get that checked out next time you have it in the garage? I could be remembering wrong on that one though so someone else might be able to clarify.Holding at 1500rpm shouldn't really be necessary for more than 30 seconds or so, just to get everything ready to go. Your cold idle rev's should ideally be between 800 & 900, rising to around 950 when warmed up. Some SP6's tend to "play up" a little when cold if the idle is lower than 750rpm or so.
If Power rebuilt it recently then it's a pretty safe bet that your oil pressures are ok - the gauges are notoriously inaccurate as already mentioned. What oil are you using though?
I don't know exactly how the airflow is at the front of a Cerb but a lot of the other SP6 cars suffer from cold air flow over the sender when driving at anything over 40mph giving "false" low readings of the oil temps, especially this time of year. You'll soon get used to its little "foibles" though - for me, I reckon that's one of the best parts of ownership, I've loved learning about my Tuscan (mind you, a little paranoia has been part and parcel too sometimes....
)Andy
Personally the car (at cold, say < 15c oil temp) requires starting with a little throttle (it catches in under 2 seconds) but if I let it idle it would sit around 650/700rpm and not die.
I don`t have to but I usually place my foot on the accelerator and its weight takes it to around 1000->1200 just because it sounds better
From hot its just turn the key and she starts / idles fine.
J
I don`t have to but I usually place my foot on the accelerator and its weight takes it to around 1000->1200 just because it sounds better
From hot its just turn the key and she starts / idles fine.
J
Just to clarify for warming up the temperature readings people talk about are oil temp NOT water temp. As the Speed Six Cerb doesn't have an oil temp dial/readout (unlike the Tuscan etc) you need to use judgement. I usually go for at least 10 mins driving before going over 3K rpm based on how my Tuscan warms up.
On start up neither Cerb or Tuscan need any right foot to idle. Both idle at around 900 rpm.
I hope this helps.
Tony
On start up neither Cerb or Tuscan need any right foot to idle. Both idle at around 900 rpm.
I hope this helps.
Tony
KillerJim said:
Personally the car (at cold, say < 15c oil temp) requires starting with a little throttle (it catches in under 2 seconds) but if I let it idle it would sit around 650/700rpm and not die.
I don`t have to but I usually place my foot on the accelerator and its weight takes it to around 1000->1200 just because it sounds better
From hot its just turn the key and she starts / idles fine.
J
I don`t have to but I usually place my foot on the accelerator and its weight takes it to around 1000->1200 just because it sounds better
From hot its just turn the key and she starts / idles fine.
J
Should not need to touch the throttle during start-up. Sometimes start her up without getting in. Taking up to 1000 rpm ensures operating voltage is attained, so I do do it sometimes.
If you have to give it revs and smells of petrol, there is something wrong.
Also, warming up does not mean sitting idle. Whole of drive train needs warming up, not just the engine. Sitting stationary for more than a minute is excessive IMHO
YKB said:
As the Speed Six Cerb doesn't have an oil temp dial/readout (unlike the Tuscan etc)
I have put a oiltemp gauge in instead of the clock in my Cerb. Since it was done like a month ago I didn´t get to try it in warm weather. What I could see using the car in 5-10 C air temp, the oil took longer time to warm up than the coolant. When up in temp the oil got a little warmer than the coolant (75-80 coolant temp and 80-85 oil temp).
The gauge I have used as oiltemp gauge is a coolant temp gauge from a Chimaera, the sensor is put on to the engine with one of those sensor adapters that you put in between the engine block and the oil filter.
The clock is moved beside the cig lighter and ash tray.
If you guys are interested in how it looks in the car I can take picture and post during the weekend. It is time to go and check how Cerbie is doing after the first three weeks of winter storage.
Peter
Hi
On your first point: Different engine, so this may be irrelavent, but having had a few problems with my Chim's oil pressure reading the other day - weird up/down behaviour soon followed by zero readout - I stopped and set about diagnosing the problem. Turned out to be just the connector to the sender unit on the engine. It was covered in oil and quite loose. I cleaned off the oil and reconnected and it immediately read higher than ever before (though it was in the acceptable range before). Might just be worth checking your connection?
On your third point: All the RV8s I've seen (4/5) have smelt a little 'rich' at cold startup too - so I hope it's normal and perhaps the same for S6 engines.
On your first point: Different engine, so this may be irrelavent, but having had a few problems with my Chim's oil pressure reading the other day - weird up/down behaviour soon followed by zero readout - I stopped and set about diagnosing the problem. Turned out to be just the connector to the sender unit on the engine. It was covered in oil and quite loose. I cleaned off the oil and reconnected and it immediately read higher than ever before (though it was in the acceptable range before). Might just be worth checking your connection?
On your third point: All the RV8s I've seen (4/5) have smelt a little 'rich' at cold startup too - so I hope it's normal and perhaps the same for S6 engines.
YKB said:
I'd like to see a picture please Peter. I miss not having an oil temp readout. It's a lot more interesting than a clock!
Tony
Sorry I haven´t post the pic until now. But here it is:Tony
As you can see it is a watertemp gauge (from a Chimaera), I don´t want to take it apart to change the symbol for a oiltemp symbol.
Peter
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