Help needed, how to change auxilary shaft bearing ?
Discussion
Hi !
Which is the easiest way to change the rear bearing on the auxilary shaft ?
Is it possible to do it without taking the bearing pedestal off from the engine block, the screws that hold the pedestal are seized, broke my new high quality(Tengtools) 5mm allen bit for the 1/2 inch wrench today when trying to get the screws out.
As I can see it I have another problem too, that is how I should be able to change belts for the alternator and power steering pump if necessary.
Is it possible to change the bearing and/or the belts by undoing the nuts that is on the auxilary shaft ?
Which is the easiest way to change the rear bearing on the auxilary shaft ?
Is it possible to do it without taking the bearing pedestal off from the engine block, the screws that hold the pedestal are seized, broke my new high quality(Tengtools) 5mm allen bit for the 1/2 inch wrench today when trying to get the screws out.
As I can see it I have another problem too, that is how I should be able to change belts for the alternator and power steering pump if necessary.
Is it possible to change the bearing and/or the belts by undoing the nuts that is on the auxilary shaft ?
Edited by Peppe on Monday 18th August 21:49
Peppe
One of mine was pretty seized up. The bottom one which is fouled by the PS Pump.
I did manage to get it out without undoing the pump though. For dodgy nuts bolts etc, I first grind the end off the tool, removing the chamferred end, so that it fitts fully home with maximum contact. This works real well with sockets on slender bolt heads. Carefully Hammer the tool home, and on mine managed to use a small spanner on the hex drive. Would suggest that to break a good drive you must have been giving it some stick. From memory, you may be best to get the PS Pump off, then get a T-Bar on the bolt. Drive should not shear if under good clean torsion. Single handed ratchet always more likely to give up.
If bolt head is damaged you are in the proverbials. would not want to attempt pushing bearing in and out in situ.
TVR power supplied me with new bearing housing as well as bearing. They still have in stock I believe, and I have old spare if you are in difficulty.
Might be worth running engine up to temperature and applying release oil and see if that helps. Would not use localised heat personally.
Stick a new belt on the alternator while you are there. Keep old for spare, same as PS belt.
Hope this helps, and good luck
One of mine was pretty seized up. The bottom one which is fouled by the PS Pump.
I did manage to get it out without undoing the pump though. For dodgy nuts bolts etc, I first grind the end off the tool, removing the chamferred end, so that it fitts fully home with maximum contact. This works real well with sockets on slender bolt heads. Carefully Hammer the tool home, and on mine managed to use a small spanner on the hex drive. Would suggest that to break a good drive you must have been giving it some stick. From memory, you may be best to get the PS Pump off, then get a T-Bar on the bolt. Drive should not shear if under good clean torsion. Single handed ratchet always more likely to give up.
If bolt head is damaged you are in the proverbials. would not want to attempt pushing bearing in and out in situ.
TVR power supplied me with new bearing housing as well as bearing. They still have in stock I believe, and I have old spare if you are in difficulty.
Might be worth running engine up to temperature and applying release oil and see if that helps. Would not use localised heat personally.
Stick a new belt on the alternator while you are there. Keep old for spare, same as PS belt.
Hope this helps, and good luck
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