Air locks and temperature
Discussion
Hi !
Are there any bleed points for the coolant on a speed six. My Cerbera has started to get warm (95 C) when I drive at speeds below 35-40 miles/h.
I have a bleeding point on the radiator but that one is lower than the top of the engine, so I suspect it might be a airlock in the engine.
Peppe
Are there any bleed points for the coolant on a speed six. My Cerbera has started to get warm (95 C) when I drive at speeds below 35-40 miles/h.
I have a bleeding point on the radiator but that one is lower than the top of the engine, so I suspect it might be a airlock in the engine.
Peppe
Found on another topic. Hope it helps.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
ETA: In my experience once ambient temperatures rise sufficiently above what you're used to the engine does reflect this in it's running temperature (more noticeable too than conventional cars).
If the temperature returns to near what you're used to when moving at faster speeds to increase air flow there probably isn't much to worry about.
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
ETA: In my experience once ambient temperatures rise sufficiently above what you're used to the engine does reflect this in it's running temperature (more noticeable too than conventional cars).
If the temperature returns to near what you're used to when moving at faster speeds to increase air flow there probably isn't much to worry about.
Edited by s6boy on Sunday 13th July 10:08
I'd be care full, the temp sensor is in the front half of the block. the temperatures at the back of the block in the stagnant air under the skuttle pannel can be very different.
a 70mph breeze will cool the temp sensor well, but not cylinder 6!
on an extended motorway trip with nothing a miss from the temp sensor this happened......
cylinder 6 got hot enough to vaporise a chunk of the piston and melt the block!
double check your cooling system is working!!!!
custard
a 70mph breeze will cool the temp sensor well, but not cylinder 6!
on an extended motorway trip with nothing a miss from the temp sensor this happened......
cylinder 6 got hot enough to vaporise a chunk of the piston and melt the block!
double check your cooling system is working!!!!
custard
I will check the cooling system since I do not want to have a engine failure. I will try to do as the rest of the Cerberas incl AJP8. Put the car on axelstands in the front, then the radiator is the highest point and I can use the bleeding point on the radiator to bleed the hole system.
mine has been loosing a bit of water i top it up so its just above the bend in the filler neck about 1 and a half inches down from the top , when you start from cold its fine but give it 15 min or so andit bubles like a cauldren on tick over with the cap off is this normal ? speed 6 ,thers alays
something
something
custardkid said:
I'd be care full, the temp sensor is in the front half of the block. the temperatures at the back of the block in the stagnant air under the skuttle pannel can be very different.
a 70mph breeze will cool the temp sensor well, but not cylinder 6!
on an extended motorway trip with nothing a miss from the temp sensor this happened......
cylinder 6 got hot enough to vaporise a chunk of the piston and melt the block!
double check your cooling system is working!!!!
custard
FOOKIN ELL.... that's a serious melt down of the crown that is..... That must have been pinkin like a basa for ages to get that bad. Either that or you were in a serious race with something really quick and on a hot summers day too, UK.... summers day.... nah not possible surely! My failed Autocraft supercharged engine didn't manage that sort of damage before I knew something was wrong....I can only say "WOW, some pic that is for the archives".a 70mph breeze will cool the temp sensor well, but not cylinder 6!
on an extended motorway trip with nothing a miss from the temp sensor this happened......
cylinder 6 got hot enough to vaporise a chunk of the piston and melt the block!
double check your cooling system is working!!!!
custard
Peppe, I get around the air lock problem by slowly filling the tank to the neck and massaging ..... ahem.... the hose that leads from the filler tank to the rad. Leave it over night and next morning top it up again, gentley squeezing the same pipe.... treat it like a mois grande bonita senoirita and you will fill the right parts with the right fluids....! If you get my meaning...!!! Run the engine to warm up whereby the thermostat opens and shut the engine down, let it cool a while and check the level in the tank. Top up to the horizontal neck as required.
Good luck
Edited by yzf1070 on Thursday 21st August 16:45
Custardkid - sorry to see that
The extreme heat and type/location of damage looks like very typical detonation damage to me, after recent experience. Appreciate can someitmes happen at cruising speed with little audible warning.
If so just as likely due to other factors like ignition/fuelling or octane rating as cooling. Have you had a diagnosis on causes?
The extreme heat and type/location of damage looks like very typical detonation damage to me, after recent experience. Appreciate can someitmes happen at cruising speed with little audible warning.
If so just as likely due to other factors like ignition/fuelling or octane rating as cooling. Have you had a diagnosis on causes?
Edited by tail slide on Thursday 21st August 19:04
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