sitting in a jam???
Discussion
Well with the holiday season approaching my little island fast there will be days of long traffic jams coming, sometime you will not be moving in parts of the island for up to 5 to 10 minutes (when full ferrys arrive in front of you)
Beeing not an engineer I know the basics -
ie idling is bad for engine wear and tear because of thermic problems arising and cooling becoming less effective (and I assume an all alloy engine may be less ressitant to that???) and on the other hand stopping and satrting an engine is not good either because of non adequate oil pressure and reduced supply to the head (which is a prob with the S6 anyway- if I am informed correctly???)
So what do I do if I sit in a jam switch it of or not??? Does it change with engine temp- ie oil warm rather switch off- engine cold rather idle???
Please do not give me tips about the eco balance
- I know i am going to kill trees and children idling (but this is a question about traffic NOT moving, not idle to warm engine...) BUT I do worry about my engine....
Cheers
Beeing not an engineer I know the basics -
ie idling is bad for engine wear and tear because of thermic problems arising and cooling becoming less effective (and I assume an all alloy engine may be less ressitant to that???) and on the other hand stopping and satrting an engine is not good either because of non adequate oil pressure and reduced supply to the head (which is a prob with the S6 anyway- if I am informed correctly???)
So what do I do if I sit in a jam switch it of or not??? Does it change with engine temp- ie oil warm rather switch off- engine cold rather idle???
Please do not give me tips about the eco balance
- I know i am going to kill trees and children idling (but this is a question about traffic NOT moving, not idle to warm engine...) BUT I do worry about my engine.... Cheers
After speaking to one of the well known S6 rebuilders, engines that spend a lot of time idling are apparantly more prone to failure. This is because when the engine idles, the oil pressure is low. Because of the S6 design (or lack of it
), the valvegear components (cams, finger followers, tappets etc.) on cylinder no6 can suffer from insufficient lubrication. This of course promotes excess wear and eventually failure.
The worst case mode of failure involves a piece (swarf) of the worn valvegear breaking off, travelling down the oil return from the top end and into the oil return scavenge pump. This swarf then jams it up and breaks the drive to it. I believe it shares the same drive as the main oil pump, so cue zero oil pressure and a knackered engine almost instantly.
If I'm stuck in traffic I like to keep an eye on the oil pressure and often hold it at 1000rpm for 5-10 sec. every 30-45 sec. to keep the oil pressure up and ensure that oil is getting to where it should.
), the valvegear components (cams, finger followers, tappets etc.) on cylinder no6 can suffer from insufficient lubrication. This of course promotes excess wear and eventually failure.The worst case mode of failure involves a piece (swarf) of the worn valvegear breaking off, travelling down the oil return from the top end and into the oil return scavenge pump. This swarf then jams it up and breaks the drive to it. I believe it shares the same drive as the main oil pump, so cue zero oil pressure and a knackered engine almost instantly.
If I'm stuck in traffic I like to keep an eye on the oil pressure and often hold it at 1000rpm for 5-10 sec. every 30-45 sec. to keep the oil pressure up and ensure that oil is getting to where it should.
Good point, I am always aware of the need for good oil pressure so I often find that when in traffic I blip the throttle almost constantly, if not just to have a listen.....and annoy other drivers..... Seriously though, I think you are on the ball here, oil starvation is one of the top SP6 killers I reckon.
Andy
Seriously though, I think you are on the ball here, oil starvation is one of the top SP6 killers I reckon.Andy
Personally I would not read to much into the elrctric oil pressure read out.
I put a mechanical oil pressure gauge in and the difference in readings is very different.
On idle, Electric, 3 to 5. Mechanical, 12. HOT
A speed 6 does not idle or labour well, they like a good thrashing with mechanical sympathy. Treat it like a shopping trolly and it will act like one.
Just my thoughts of course.
I put a mechanical oil pressure gauge in and the difference in readings is very different.
On idle, Electric, 3 to 5. Mechanical, 12. HOT
A speed 6 does not idle or labour well, they like a good thrashing with mechanical sympathy. Treat it like a shopping trolly and it will act like one.
Just my thoughts of course.
Whitey said:
anyone considered uprated oil pumps? Or any of the builders ie craft/Austec who are not doing the standard factory spec rebuilds?
Craft fiited an uprated oil pump (don't know which brand - but call Dave at Craft to find out) to my car when upgrading the engine. But more importantly they fitted extra feeds into the head at the end where the starvation occurs most frequently (something that was in Al Mellings original design but removed by TVR).S6 SFX said:
Whitey said:
anyone considered uprated oil pumps? Or any of the builders ie craft/Austec who are not doing the standard factory spec rebuilds?
Craft fiited an uprated oil pump (don't know which brand - but call Dave at Craft to find out) to my car when upgrading the engine. But more importantly they fitted extra feeds into the head at the end where the starvation occurs most frequently (something that was in Al Mellings original design but removed by TVR).dvs_dave said:
S6 SFX said:
Whitey said:
anyone considered uprated oil pumps? Or any of the builders ie craft/Austec who are not doing the standard factory spec rebuilds?
Craft fiited an uprated oil pump (don't know which brand - but call Dave at Craft to find out) to my car when upgrading the engine. But more importantly they fitted extra feeds into the head at the end where the starvation occurs most frequently (something that was in Al Mellings original design but removed by TVR).Al.
leeburn said:
On this subject of idleing,
What should the idle speed be set at for a tuscan II S?
Mine seems quite high at 1200rpm ish
Cheers
Mine is 900 RPM when the engine is warmed up with the air-con off.Although it drops off by 100 RPM with the air-con on, and increases by about 100 RPM with the second cooling fan switches on.So normally between 800 and 1000 RPM. What should the idle speed be set at for a tuscan II S?
Mine seems quite high at 1200rpm ish
Cheers
tuscandom said:
while we are on the subject...what do you think is the best warm up proceedure ?
Lots of opinions..I tend to strart the car and drive off - not leaving to idle for a long period. I firmly belive that long periods idling on a clod engine are bad.
Up to 40 deg C limit 2500 rpm
Limit 3000 rpm to 50 Deg C
Limit 4000 rpm to 60 Deg C
Build revs there after, but not too enthusiastic until 80 Deg oil temp is reached.
Avoid revs below 1500 whilst under any load -especially when cold.
Daftlad said:
tuscandom said:
while we are on the subject...what do you think is the best warm up proceedure ?
Lots of opinions..I tend to strart the car and drive off - not leaving to idle for a long period. I firmly belive that long periods idling on a clod engine are bad.
Up to 40 deg C limit 2500 rpm
Limit 3000 rpm to 50 Deg C
Limit 4000 rpm to 60 Deg C
Build revs there after, but not too enthusiastic until 80 Deg oil temp is reached.
Avoid revs below 1500 whilst under any load -especially when cold.
tamore said:
Daftlad said:
tuscandom said:
while we are on the subject...what do you think is the best warm up proceedure ?
Lots of opinions..I tend to strart the car and drive off - not leaving to idle for a long period. I firmly belive that long periods idling on a clod engine are bad.
Up to 40 deg C limit 2500 rpm
Limit 3000 rpm to 50 Deg C
Limit 4000 rpm to 60 Deg C
Build revs there after, but not too enthusiastic until 80 Deg oil temp is reached.
Avoid revs below 1500 whilst under any load -especially when cold.
If you're more the rev it from 50 degrees type, I would advise you start saving now....
i'm really careful with the warming up, but if i've driven 100 miles and the oil temp is still at 65C which is frequently the case, (especially during a blistering summer like this one ), then i'll give it the occasional blast of full hammer.
i've had a full rebuild recently despite tip-toeing until the engine's warm, not warming up at idle speeds etc etc. drove it for the first time since the 1000 mile checks/ oil change last night, and i can say with some certainty that the engine was on it's way out when i bought it 12 months ago.
), then i'll give it the occasional blast of full hammer.i've had a full rebuild recently despite tip-toeing until the engine's warm, not warming up at idle speeds etc etc. drove it for the first time since the 1000 mile checks/ oil change last night, and i can say with some certainty that the engine was on it's way out when i bought it 12 months ago.
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