Alternator removal

Alternator removal

Author
Discussion

yi8tvr

Original Poster:

1,105 posts

255 months

Sunday 30th July 2006
quotequote all
Is there a simple way of removing the rear bolts on the alternator to get it off. Ive removed the front one one the slider bar but cant drop it enough to get to the back ones as a pipe underneath is stopping it from lowering.


HELP


Its a sp6 T350

Ive checked the 100amp fuse bar by the starter motor and thats ok...

yi8tvr

Original Poster:

1,105 posts

255 months

Sunday 30th July 2006
quotequote all
Got it off...

Does anyone know what the Denso Alternator is off of

cosmos 350

12 posts

218 months

Monday 31st July 2006
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Thanks for the advice how have you got on with the removal? Fortunatley mine is back at the dealers under warranty but I'm sure it will have to be done sometime in the future, the questions I'm asking are is it engine bay heat that causes them to go, is it wrongly sized, or is it TVR cheap rubbish again. Engine bay heat now thats a subject to debate. I've heard ceramic coating exhuast primary pipes would be good idea.

yi8tvr

Original Poster:

1,105 posts

255 months

Wednesday 2nd August 2006
quotequote all
cosmos 350 said:
Thanks for the advice how have you got on with the removal? Fortunatley mine is back at the dealers under warranty but I'm sure it will have to be done sometime in the future, the questions I'm asking are is it engine bay heat that causes them to go, is it wrongly sized, or is it TVR cheap rubbish again. Engine bay heat now thats a subject to debate. I've heard ceramic coating exhuast primary pipes would be good idea.




My only advise is

1/ Give yourself plenty of time
2/ Get yourself one of them telescopic magnets, as you will drop a washer/nut or bolt.
3/ Expect bleeding knuckles
4/ Dont have children around you whilst working (the air will be blue)

Most importantly replace it with a Lucas, they are slightly larger but worth it.

And yes they mostly fail due to being cooked.

Oh and dont forget to check the 100amp fuse bar bolted at the rear of the starter motor.

justinbaker

1,339 posts

253 months

Monday 7th August 2006
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yi8tvr said:
Oh and dont forget to check the 100amp fuse bar bolted at the rear of the starter motor.


Here it is...



Edited by justinbaker on Monday 7th August 21:09

LJM

241 posts

225 months

Saturday 8th December 2007
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yi8tvr said:
cosmos 350 said:
Thanks for the advice how have you got on with the removal? Fortunatley mine is back at the dealers under warranty but I'm sure it will have to be done sometime in the future, the questions I'm asking are is it engine bay heat that causes them to go, is it wrongly sized, or is it TVR cheap rubbish again. Engine bay heat now thats a subject to debate. I've heard ceramic coating exhuast primary pipes would be good idea.
My only advise is

1/ Give yourself plenty of time
2/ Get yourself one of them telescopic magnets, as you will drop a washer/nut or bolt.
3/ Expect bleeding knuckles
4/ Dont have children around you whilst working (the air will be blue)

Most importantly replace it with a Lucas, they are slightly larger but worth it.

And yes they mostly fail due to being cooked.

Oh and dont forget to check the 100amp fuse bar bolted at the rear of the starter motor.
Mine failed on me yesterday, left me stranded on the side of a very busy road for three hours!! Green flag are great!!

Could anyone please give me some advice on which alternator to fit including the part number and price etc

Edited to say: T350 54 plate

Thanks in advance,

Lloyd

Edited by LJM on Saturday 8th December 09:47

custardkid

2,514 posts

229 months

Saturday 8th December 2007
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isn't it a landrover part? i had one replaced at about £130, only to fined the problem wasn't the alternator, just but not haveing enough tension on the belt! check the belt first!

wavey hello Justin

custard

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

212 months

Saturday 8th December 2007
quotequote all