Discussion
Hi there,
if you can get the car up on a ramp then you'll see there is a drain plug at the bottom of the oil resevoir which sits just behind the front splitter- I suspect that's your easiest route for rectifying the situation. I think you'll struggle if you can't get the car at least partly up in the air.
Be careful undoing though as it's an aluminium casting.
JT
if you can get the car up on a ramp then you'll see there is a drain plug at the bottom of the oil resevoir which sits just behind the front splitter- I suspect that's your easiest route for rectifying the situation. I think you'll struggle if you can't get the car at least partly up in the air.
Be careful undoing though as it's an aluminium casting.
JT
There is a pipe from the cam-cover which vents the blowby pressure from the engine.
Blowby gasses are a product of combustion pressure leakage past the piston rings, which mixes with the oil that lubricates the cylinder bores / oil mist in the crankcase.
This leads to the top of your oil tank.
The crankcase gas (which contains oil mist) vents into the tank, as oppose to atmosphere - keeping a 'closed' system.
If the oil level in the tank was too high, you could get a situation where oil / vapour was blown out of the filler cap and all over your nice clean engine.......
Blowby gasses are a product of combustion pressure leakage past the piston rings, which mixes with the oil that lubricates the cylinder bores / oil mist in the crankcase.
This leads to the top of your oil tank.
The crankcase gas (which contains oil mist) vents into the tank, as oppose to atmosphere - keeping a 'closed' system.
If the oil level in the tank was too high, you could get a situation where oil / vapour was blown out of the filler cap and all over your nice clean engine.......
I must admit, its quite hard to check the oil after its just been turned off. Theres always oil all over the dip stick and its just a guess where it is.
I have started checking it cold, and keeping it just over the maximum mark.
I have a little hand pump that can suck out oil, and although I have only covered 2000 miles since Austec rebuild, I have "freshened" the entire oil tank with Mobil-1 twice now. Its suprising how clean the oil looks on the dipstick, but as soon as its in a container how contaminated it is. Not the cheapest thing to do, but having gone through a rebuild it adds more confidence (and a sense of well being)
Did the same thing yesterday on the little smart car, flushed it through with cheapo nasty £5 for 5L. Sucked it dry and crystal clear Mobil-1 is flowing round it now.
I have started checking it cold, and keeping it just over the maximum mark.
I have a little hand pump that can suck out oil, and although I have only covered 2000 miles since Austec rebuild, I have "freshened" the entire oil tank with Mobil-1 twice now. Its suprising how clean the oil looks on the dipstick, but as soon as its in a container how contaminated it is. Not the cheapest thing to do, but having gone through a rebuild it adds more confidence (and a sense of well being)
Did the same thing yesterday on the little smart car, flushed it through with cheapo nasty £5 for 5L. Sucked it dry and crystal clear Mobil-1 is flowing round it now.
Edited by justinbaker on Thursday 15th June 10:13
Far Eastender said:
I drove 400 miles yesterday (upto 150 mph at times), oil level is now back to 'normal'
Thats the best repair
If it's the same as the Tuscan you must check it immediately as it's a dry sump and will drain away fairly immediately. Also they just burn off what they don't use so no real harm in a slight overfill, same as with the water levels (driving mechanics for dummies!!)
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