Raceproved Preoiler
Discussion
I wonder if there are many of you out there having the raceproved preoiler installed.
Does anyone ever unplugged the hose from the cam cover and then started ?
I have, and --> nothing !! No oil is getting pumped at all !
Then took off the hose that goes to the filter and no oil, too. So i think the pump is dead.
It is an Jabsco/Flojet Triplex diaphragma pump type. The max. working temperature of these pumps is 60 degrees C ! So no wonder the pump went...
Maybe take a look at yours.
Thomas
Does anyone ever unplugged the hose from the cam cover and then started ?
I have, and --> nothing !! No oil is getting pumped at all !
Then took off the hose that goes to the filter and no oil, too. So i think the pump is dead.
It is an Jabsco/Flojet Triplex diaphragma pump type. The max. working temperature of these pumps is 60 degrees C ! So no wonder the pump went...
Maybe take a look at yours.
Thomas
just remove the pre oiler pump, then take the feed to the small filter housing and fit this to the oil cooler output, you`ll need a suitable fitting from somewhere like merlin motorports, that way you`ll have an extra oil feed to the tops of the cams when the engine is running.
the oil reaches the cams within 2 seconds of turning over the engine anyway so personally I don't think the pre oiler pump is of any added benefit to be honest.
the oil reaches the cams within 2 seconds of turning over the engine anyway so personally I don't think the pre oiler pump is of any added benefit to be honest.
I know the preoiler is an often discussed expensive piece of thing. Personally i wouldn't have put it in, but the former owner did. This should be just a quick info for those who believe in the function of the preoiler :-)
Clive, isn't this too much oil pressure for the spray bar inside the cover ?
Before buying a new pump i will throw out all except the cover....
Clive, isn't this too much oil pressure for the spray bar inside the cover ?
Before buying a new pump i will throw out all except the cover....
Clive, i will give that a try. Just to my understanding:
Removing the pump and the feed from oiltank to pump is clear so far, but what about the 4 way adapter ? At the moment the 4 feeds are going to:
1. Raceproved pump
2. Engine block
3. Oilcooler
4. Feed to the cam cover
So the cam cover is already connected to the oilcooler, isn't it ?
Thanks,
Thomas
Removing the pump and the feed from oiltank to pump is clear so far, but what about the 4 way adapter ? At the moment the 4 feeds are going to:
1. Raceproved pump
2. Engine block
3. Oilcooler
4. Feed to the cam cover
So the cam cover is already connected to the oilcooler, isn't it ?
Thanks,
Thomas
to be honest I cant remember the pipe routing on the pre oiler pump, but if you remove the pump and the feed to the pump, where ever that came from, and the cam cover is still connected to the cooler then fine.
I thought that the cam cover was connected to the pre oiler pump, so if you remove the pump then you need to feed the cover from elsewhere.
I thought that the cam cover was connected to the pre oiler pump, so if you remove the pump then you need to feed the cover from elsewhere.
clive f said:
I`ve been running mine in this way for 3 years now and no problems, I love the cam cover but not the pre oiler kit that came with it, so I thought I`d keep the small filter and plumbed the feed into the cooler output and it works fine.
I love the cam cover as well. Not as bulky as the original.Lack of lubrication to the top end isn’t the issue. TVR themselves supposedly ran a test rig with the valve gear submerged in oil to test the lack of lubrication theory and it made no difference.
Incorrect/mismatched material hardness of the cams and finger followers is the problem, along with soft valve stem seals. This and a few other tweaks/upgrades are what the rebuilds fix.
Incorrect/mismatched material hardness of the cams and finger followers is the problem, along with soft valve stem seals. This and a few other tweaks/upgrades are what the rebuilds fix.
dvs_dave said:
Lack of lubrication to the top end isn’t the issue. TVR themselves supposedly ran a test rig with the valve gear submerged in oil to test the lack of lubrication theory and it made no difference.
Incorrect/mismatched material hardness of the cams and finger followers is the problem, along with soft valve stem seals. This and a few other tweaks/upgrades are what the rebuilds fix.
I’ve always wanted to know this and thanks for making it clear and simple. Incorrect/mismatched material hardness of the cams and finger followers is the problem, along with soft valve stem seals. This and a few other tweaks/upgrades are what the rebuilds fix.
What other tweaks/ upgrades are we talking about here as I’m often asked about the engine so it would be good to pass on good advice regarding rebuilt units.
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